1JZ engine build +parts recommended

[celica77]

Jase thanks for your imput much appreciated. and love your car
so you recommend say a 50mm pro gate with 17psi spring? on the 6 boost manifold?
yeah well im gonna have the head apart to check everything out so i may as well get it all ported cleaned. new springs, valve seats etc. and ill put it all back together with the arp studs and stuff and a good head gasket. i dont think ill run a 1.06 rear ill run the .86. its good i shouldnt have to upgrade the bottom end. but ill check it out to make sure the bearings are good etc when i get the 1J..
how much do the 3540 turbos go for ?

[Toy77]

when chooing your wastegate spring, remember you can always go up in boost, but no lower (without changeing springs).

So 17psi would be you low boost street setting...

Cheers
Stew

[Brendan-m2]

how much do the 3540 turbos go for ?

Roughly they are anywhere from $1800 - $2300 new.

I bought mine only a few months ago and paid $1800 for it.

I have a Garrett Honeywell GT3582R (I do believe they don't make the 3540 anymore, could be wrong though).

[celica77]

cheers stew
that makes more sense now. well ill be running duel stage electronic boost. so 17psi low should be ok and 20 whatever high. or does anyone recommend a lower spring if im gonna run duel stage electronic boost
might be a stupid question what does the r stand for on the end of the turbo stand for?:
GT3582R and 3540 how much do they differ?

[Brendan-m2]

I believe the gt3582r is just a new upgraded version of the gt3540, not to sure on the differences.

I would recommend running a 12psi spring as 17 is probally abit high for puting around town, you can always upgrade the spring if its not enough for you. You could get a wastegate with an adjustable spring rate like what I have.

[Brendan-m2]

Ok did some research for you, and found this:

If there's an "R" on the end of a model name, this means the unit is ball bearing. So, a GT4294 is not ball bearing; whereas a GT4294R is ball bearing.

Also found this, looks like the GT3582R is basically the same turbo as the GT3540, its mainly just a change in naming convetion, as listed below:

GTxxyyzz:

•Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
◦For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
◦As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.
•Positions "yy" designate the compressor wheel exducer (major) diameter in millimeters
◦The "60" in the GT2860RS example above has a 60mm compressor wheel exducer diameter.
◦Note: Wheel sizes 100mm and over omit the "1" (hundreds digit)
◦Example: the 02 in a GT4202 refers to its 102mm compressor wheel exducer diameter
•Positions "zz" may be used to designate special features of a particular turbocharger where applicable
◦Example: GT2860RS
◦"R" = this is a Ball Bearing unit
◦"S" = used for units which require some differentiation from units in the same family
Compare a GT2860R to a GT2860RS. While both are ball bearing and externally similar, the GT2860RS is better suited for higher-flow applications than the GT2860R. In this case, the S reflects the higher-flowing nature of the GT2860RS

[celica77]

fark you guys are helpful. will shout you all a beer sometime
yeah might go a 13psi spring. as i can run a high boost setting with the dual stage electronic boost. and 13psi is much like i run on my 1ggte its good for the street

[Brendan-m2]

Make it a whisky and I'll take it
Yeah good choice, with 13PSI you will still get some nice power but not be drilling a hole in your fuel tank and with the duel stage boost controller you can turn it up to whatever you like when you want that extra power.

[celica77]

hahha ok whisky it is....
ill hit kyle up later and have a chat to him also

[Smokey228]

P.s. I street drive my car with the 17psi spring daily. Well when i can avoid it i dont, but i didnt drive it daily for 2 weeks with 17psi spring. And the turbo is easily laggy enough to drive around with on 17pound. Its not often you need to plant it and drive it much past 4k in the celica... (17psi is seen by 4k and gate is opened...)

Cheers,
jase

[Brendan-m2]

Yeah good point, with the celica being so much lighter then say my car you could probally get away with the extra boost and not be using huge amounts of fuel, still I think its nice to have a lower boost setting.

[celica77]

my 1ggte ra23 is terrible on fuel HAHAHAH
but fun to drive.

[1JZ.747]

Bottom end i wouldnt bother touching, hypo77 made 580hp (on the grape vine) despite the belief of 520hp with stock bottom end and just cams and gears + 3540 with 1.06 rear... Also running lots of boost... It blew, but i think it was either failed rings, or it munched a valve...

It was an unopened wrecker motor though, so thats still a big claim!

Cheers,
Jase

matt (hypo77) was making 580 ish. the issue was burnt piston. which in my opinion was due to the fact he was running avgas, and the fuel quality just wasnt good enough at that much horsepower.

the most mine ever made with the stock 1j was 502rwhp through the auto, but punch 137 mph and 3400 pounds into a horsepower calculator and its more like 680, however i only ever ran c16 or sunoco race fuel a the big boost

to make 450 with a manual there is no need for cam gears, mine are dialled in at zero at 1000hp. i would do cams, 264 should be nice, myself if i had my time again would go 272's i never had cams back in the 1j days.

[celica77]

went for a ride in jordans ra23 the other night in the 1J VVTI HOLY CRAP makes my 1g look and feel like a pussy cat. hes talked me into fitting one into my ra23 hahahahhaha. the 28 will still be getting a 1J but im gonna put one of these in my 23 now