4age 16v into ra60 celica

[mattysshop]

i'd consider getting a SA63 crossmember and bolting a 3SGE in it..

4AGE in heavier cars just make a lot of noise.. they seem fun.. but arn't unless it's in a small light car..

with a 4AGE.. you can use a complete FF bigport or smallport 4AGE and providing you have the mounts.. drop it straight in with no issues at all.. the ONLY thing you might have to change is the heater hose outlet on the back of the head..

sumps are the same, pickups are the same, cut and shut manifolds are everywhere.. OR you can do a simple DIY quad throttle conversion relativley cheaply.. (see a link to my twincam post)

http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=26291

the later model ones (some earlier ones) have a bulky rear housing.. this houses a brown, and green sensors.. the earlier ones tend to run flat against the head.. so you get a bit more clearance when putting in RWD..


a few things to remember... when doing FWD 4age to RWD 4age...

if you use the FWD water pump.. DO NOT hang a clutch fan off it.. it will desintergrate within a few hundred km's..

if you use a RWD 4age/4ac water pump, you have to use a RWD 4AGE top rad hose outlet as it has the half inch (approx) bypass tube that connects to the back of the thermostate housing on the RWD setup.. these top rad outlets are actually quite hard to get..

best of just using the whole FF water pump, remote thermostate housing, and doing a thermo fan setup..

also don't forget your spigot bearing!

and might want to run a bit of an extension for the clutch slave cylinder as the aussie 4A RWD t-50 bellhousing runs it on the passanger side of the car.. perfect for a 4ac sprinter/corolla.. but for a 4AG which runs it on the passside right past it.. kinda gets a little warm.. or you can sheild it.. sometimes causes drama's..

other than that.. 4AGE rwd is a piss easy setup.. as there is no special sumps, or pickups, or flywheels to get.. you can use any of them.. (cept for GZE)

the idea flywheel is a 212mm.. from a 20v, some 100kw smallports run them, and some bigport MR2's run them..

there is a few different versions i think you should look into to establish the best combination of parts.. but there all pretty interchangeable..

[briney]

i would have to advocate for the rz series engines. you can get a carbied 2rz pretty easy. the 3rz would be even better. with a relatively heavy car, cubes rule. and the rz's love the boost.

[WDE_BDY]

Coronas/Celicas etc which had the A-series engine (be it 4AFE, 4AGE or 7AFE) were generally base-model ones, not top-spec, and were the slugs of the bunch

Complete rubbish. The AA6* and AT14* models were available in a number of spec levels including the base 3A version (4 speed T40 (don't recall seeing any K50's in this size body), solid diff, rear drums) and the full spec 4A-GE version with T50 and disc brake T series IRS. This spec was equivalent the TA61 GT which ran the 2T-GEU and one step down from the RA63 GT with 18R-GEU with W55 and F series IRS. Then of course there were also the 3T-GTEU equivalents. Japan had a lot of different engined cars of varying spec level at the time (and still does), no particular engine series was lower spec than any other.

Callum

[Hiro]

Complete rubbish. The AA6* and AT14* models were available in a number of spec levels including the base 3A version (4 speed T40 (don't recall seeing any K50's in this size body), solid diff, rear drums) and the full spec 4A-GE version with T50 and disc brake T series IRS. This spec was equivalent the TA61 GT which ran the 2T-GEU and one step down from the RA63 GT with 18R-GEU with W55 and F series IRS. Then of course there were also the 3T-GTEU equivalents. Japan had a lot of different engined cars of varying spec level at the time (and still does), no particular engine series was lower spec than any other.

Callum

Ok, should have qualified by saying that they were lesser models, like comparing an XR6 to an XR6 turbo - whilst they might have shared interior and some drivetrain one version is regarded as vastly superior to the other.

[Biggus]

So whats going to cost less to get decent performance out of? A 3T-GTE, an 18RG or a 4AGE? Also, whats the purpose of this car?

I do like the idea of the 2RZ though. I thought they were pretty monstrous weight-wise though. Anyone got a figure?

[nev194]

im lookin for good street drivable but nice touge style car

[mattysshop]

i'd do a 3SGE conversion with much more available parts from an SA63..

[rob]

but nice touge style car

touge style aye

i want my car to be conquistador style, 16th century Hernan Cortés smackdown of the Aztecs style. I will pillage your nose gold and fill your manhole with syphilis and puss until your tribe is wiped out.

hope this helps.

[mullett]

Just to be different...I'd go with a V6, 1MZFE, otherwise a 3SGE will be a great motor. On the other side...there's so many perfect and very well modified cars for sale at the moment in the 'cars' section...you could have a total bargain. Dare I suggest an MA61?

And don't get munroe shocks. The end.

-RM

[WDE_BDY]

It was mentioned earlier that with red P's you are ok if it was available factory. My advice is confirm exactly what you can and can't do before going ahead. Yes you could do a 4A-GE, 3T-GTE or 18RG swap but the rest of your running gear doesn't meet the factory specs (all were IRS) so may not be allowed anyway. Then its all just wasted time and money.

Callum

[Biggus]

Yeah, leave it til you get off your Ps. If you're keen on spending money, make it handle. However, when I was on my Ps, I wouldn't listen to old farts, so why should you?

1MZ-FE would be an interesting choice. Don't know what it'd be like going round corners, but I can't see it being that bad. 1UZ would probably be better.

Hell, if you're just wanting something to thrash around, get some dirty nissan power. You won't be doing any IPRA stuff, so it isn't like you need to stay with same brand, same number of pistons, etc.

[mullett]

1MZ-FE would be an interesting choice. Don't know what it'd be like going round corners, but I can't see it being that bad. 1UZ would probably be better.
.

1MZ=shorter and lighter than 1UZ...

-RM.

[mattysshop]

is everyone anti 3SGE-ing the bugger??

[mullett]

Not at all, damn good idea I think Getting a RWD one could be expensive (BEAMS 6speed) or *slightly* complicated, eg

Gen2 3SGE (I think you need to change the inlet manifold and some accessories for RWD?)
SA63 5 speed
Clutch etc to suit
SA63 Xmember

I guess it wouldn't be too hard, just need to find a few bits. Probably the simplest option, as you won't have any trouble with length of the motor, mounts or gearbox (if you can find an SA63 for bits) and gives you an easy upgrade path: 3SGTE BEAMS motor would be very, very sweet in this car...

-RM.

[mattysshop]

i don't think it would be too hard at all..

although when i killed my 4AG in my AE86 (the factory one) i bought a Gen 2 3S, W55, bits and bobs all ready to start fabrication.. and then sold it.. and bolted a GZE in it.. lol..

i should have done the 3S.. i ended up going back to a quadded up 4AG 16v after the GZE anyway!! gotta love NA rumble!