Rex... this has been covered over and over. One key point : the spring itself will flex to accomodate what little lateral movement it has to. Sure it will load the bearing unevenly by a bit, but it has been shown to last a while that way.
the main thing is that the strut top is NOT locked solid to the top hat.Originally Posted by Rex_Kelway
The shock shaft is locked to the spherical bearing only. the top hat is free to slide up and down the shaft.
the hole in the top hat should be larger than the diamter of the shock shaft, so that the shock shaft can move to different angles, all without touching the sides (both sides) of the top hat.
this does mean that the top hat might move sideways and rub a bit perhaps?
the top hat and the shock shaft/top hat are seperate entities...
(that make sense?)
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Rex... this has been covered over and over. One key point : the spring itself will flex to accomodate what little lateral movement it has to. Sure it will load the bearing unevenly by a bit, but it has been shown to last a while that way.
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Yeah I wasnt expecting a click but thought it would at least feel as though I'm moving something inside the damper and not just winding out a loose grub screw! Ok I'll see how it goes once the car is mobile, thanks for the info.Originally Posted by Hen
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I bought a set of these t3 tops and ended up selling them on.
Something about them just doesnt seem right.
You bolt the shock nut down onto the strut top, which then binds the strut-top to the shock shaft. Therefore when you turn a corner the strut and shock tube will rotate around the shock shaft.
This cant be good for the shock. In factory applications doesnt the bearing inside the factory strut top rotate keeping the shock tube and shaft in one position? Therefore when you turn the strut will rotate on the bearing?
There is still a bearing in the strut top - the same as any other aftermarket strut top. The only difference is the way the spring hat operates.
A minor amount of turning (think about how many degrees it would actually rotate through) is unlike to cause damage compared to a million up and down cycles over potholes, bumps etc.
Callum
HU??Originally Posted by cuzzo
The shock shaft bolts to the strut top. This is the same any OEM or AM replacement part. The Spherical bearing will rotate inside the strut top as per usual.
Why would this not turn?
There is a second bearing which sits inside the top hat between that had and the strut top. This also rotates as you move the struts. I would say that this point requires some 'grease' so that when loaded it can move about on the strut top to adjust for camber angle changes as discussed above.
As others have said, the only real difference I can see if how the load from the shocks are transferred to the car. With the T3 hat design it’s done via the top itself though roller bearing and spacer. All others do it through the spherical bearing.
I assume Cuzzo was using a strut with a shaft that did not allow the spring hat to slide on the shaft. If there is a shoulder that is wider than the opening of the hat it's going to pull the hat up hard against the top locking up the spherical bearing.
When He says 'locked' to the hat, Rex means clamped by the spring pressure on the base of the upper hat pushing upward against the weight of the vehicle pushing down on the on the strut-top, clamping the hat to the top.
So the upper hat is essentially loose on the shaft? Fair enough, this would allow the strut to swing as its supposed to. However now surely because the upper shaft its located by the spherical bearing means that now the upper hat will 'slop' around in this clearance and leaves the spring to take the compliance or pivoting loads.
If this is the case Rex will agree that these tops are indeed nice and shiny, T3 has created a 'cool' brand. But a step forward in upper hat systems. He thinks not...
Rex doesn't take this stuff lightly He has played it over and over in His head, and from an engineering point of view it just doesn't make sense.
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Hmm,
I guess we are not going to settle this easily
For those who want a solution, I've attached the design for the spacers.
If you get them made, please use a high carbon steel, such as 4140 or similar.
Mild steel will probably sheer without too much load.
#Disclaimer
I am not responsible if you use these spacers and your suspension breaks, collapses or dislodges causing damage to yourself, your car or others.
Use at own risk.
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