Oil pressure drop on 4AGE smallport after oil and filter change

**BoostBoy** · 23-04-2009, 03:55 PM

I didn't originally install it, but after this happened I did remove it check it and put it back. I'm pretty sure the hoses are in the right spot...the hose that goes to the point marked as "IN" on the plate also has a fitting that feeds the turbo.

Something curious to me...I always monitor if there are any oil leaks and it seems I get a tiny bit of oil on either side of the clamps for the "OUT" pipe but none on the "IN" pipe. Does this maybe suggest not enough oil is being pumped back out, or am I just nit picking? There was definitely Oil in the filter and in the pipes when I had removed it all...

**BoostBoy** · 25-04-2009, 05:37 PM

Maybe I've answered my own question there...it's possible I swapped over the hoses when I was checking everything over. Possibly a stupid/obvious question...should the inlet marked as "IN" on the sandwich plate have the hose with the oil being pumped from the sump? And the "OUT" position being the filtered oil?

**allencr** · 26-04-2009, 09:04 AM

Originally Posted by BoostBoy

Maybe I've answered my own question

I don't know what IN or OUT mean on your stuff.
With one port in the center and another port on the side, the remote filter housing's output is the center port and it should go to the center port of that thing on the block.

**BoostBoy** · 26-04-2009, 11:31 AM

Okay thanks...should that also be the same line that feeds the turbo?

**allencr** · 26-04-2009, 03:44 PM

Originally Posted by BoostBoy

Okay thanks...should that also be the same line that feeds the turbo?

What difference does it make if one is filtered & one isn't????????????????????

**BoostBoy** · 26-04-2009, 03:55 PM

Oh...I thought it made a difference :S

**BoostBoy** · 26-04-2009, 07:17 PM

Woohoo! What an idiot I feel like....that was exactly the problem....actually I believe it was a combination of things. I think first of all the oil pressure sender was faulty which was showing the initial drop in pressure, which then caused me to pull the oil hoses off to check for cracks and then I incorrectly put them on the other way :S

So I swapped them around today, hooked up the mechanical oil pressure gauge and BAM...pressure on idle at around 30psi....when revving the car it increased to around 70psi!! I'm glad I stuck it out because I was going to give up and send the car to a mechanic tomorrow who would have probably convinced me to get the oil pump rebuilt!

Only thing NOT making me %100 happy right now is the fact that I drove the car when this initially happened for about 50k's on a fucking freeway...possibly when the hoses were swapped around....so I wonder what sort of bearing damage I've done

**abently** · 26-04-2009, 09:05 PM

Bearing damage should be light (even for 100K's of driving) but if you hear a knock sound in a few hundred K's then you know why. 30psi pressure at idle is A LOT in my experience but check a relevant Toyota workshop manual and maybe step down one level in oil thickness.

**BoostBoy** · 26-04-2009, 09:18 PM

Yeah true...I have a feeling I may have done the accidental oil hose swap after I drove the car...because surely I would have the engine seize up, or blow the turbo and see white smoke?? Also pressure being quite good should mean everything is okay...fingers crossed.

I've just bought some Penrite HPR15, so now it gives me an excuse to put some better oil in there...I should also clarify the 30psi is a rough average on about 1200rpm...the needle was oscillating a bit. Manual says 4psi or more on idle and 36-71psi on about 3,000rpm.

**allencr** · 27-04-2009, 02:57 AM

Originally Posted by BoostBoy

I want to make sure my motor stays new and lasts...and the best way to do that is to treat it right from the beginning...so I'm a little worried because I ended up buying Castrol GTX3 15W-40 and used that for the service...have I done the wrong thing?

There is hardly any oil that is much better or different, only their advertising & price.
The biggest problem, other then having the oil flow blocked by that prize 'anti-drainback valve', is the owner/driver, with cold startups, lugging, oil change frequency & cleanliness. If you haven't already fucked it up royally or contaminated it when fitting the hoses, it'll probably still live at least 80-90% of what it should have had this shit not happened, even if it gives a knock or three on startup when its been sitting a looong time.
Good luck.