1J flywheel bolts

[Toy77]

Hey all,

after getting a little enthusiastic tightening up my flywheel bolts the other day - i now have 5 stretched bolts - and one snapped one. the ensuing panic, with loctite red (high strength) thread lock on a sapped bolt in my crank, would have been fun to watch i reckon.

if i worked as fast as i did then, my car could be finishd this arvo!!!

any way i got it out.

now i need some advice - should flywheel bolts break? i thought that high tensile would be damn near impossible to break. i was using a ratle gun (which i was told too - dumb mechanic), but it was a povo super cheap one...

i had a look around and saw some bolts for sale on the forums - saying 4a and 1j are the same and to try rocket.

http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/d...tno=AR203-2802

are these what i want?

im assuming 4a and 1j have the same number of flywheel bolts.

also in the add tey were for sale - the guy said they were too short for his aftermarket flywheel.
i also have an after market fly (billet HKS) how much longer than the thick ness of the flywhel and the crank end should the bolts be?

sorry for the stupid questions - but this is the piece that i really dont want letting go!!!!

Cheers
Stew

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Just buy some ARP ones, 4AG.

Shouldn't reuse flywheel bolts anyway.. torque to yield.

[IN 05 NT]

i just fitted mine up, ARP 4age bolts....the thread protrudes probably 20mm through the flywheel into the crank,

standard flywheel is roughly round 10-15mm thick (where it bolts to the crank), (going via memory....i didnt measure),

so if your aftermarket fly is similar thickness you should be right.

all 4a/1j/2j have 8 fly bolts

[Toy77]

thanks guys

what is torque to yeild?

Cheers
Stew

[rob]

best idea is to buy new bolts and borrow a torque wrench to do it properly

[Aust162]

I just put the arp bolts in my 1j on friday (Part no: 203-2802). compared to the factory 1j bolts, the arp ones are about 3-4mm longer, so not sure how much thicker your aftermarket flywheel is. (im using the factory one)

thanks guys

what is torque to yeild?

Cheers
Stew

Torque to yield, mean's torquing the bolt to the yield point of the bolt material. After the yeild point is the plastic deformation stage (which is when the metal permanently stretches and cannot return to it original size), then it's likely to snap soon.

[Toy77]

thanks guys,

all sorted.. ish

thats what i thought torque to yield meant . but how do you know where that point is?

What is the recomended torque for a flywheel bolt?

Thanks again
Stew

[chaserbuddy]

thanks guys,

all sorted.. ish

thats what i thought torque to yield meant . but how do you know where that point is?

What is the recomended torque for a flywheel bolt?

Thanks again
Stew

for a 1jz from memory its 43nm of torque and then an extra 90 degrees of rotation for each bolt. use a marker and mark it so you know when 90 degrees is. That is what is stated by exedy clutch.

[IN 05 NT]

the arp ones were 85 ft pounds i think......i used the gun

[acmtt]

1jz is two stage. Torque to 36ft lb then turn a further 90 deg. Roughly equals what in_05_nt said.

[chaserbuddy]

1jz is two stage. Torque to 36ft lb then turn a further 90 deg. Roughly equals what in_05_nt said.

36 foot pound is around 48 newton meter, so yeah i said 43 before, i wasnt entirely sure but it was around that mark anyway im pretty sure 5 nm wouldn't make a hell of alot of difference. I know people that have torqued 1jz flywheel bolts at 88nm and never had a problem, infact i did it once at that because i couldnt get enough leaverage on the fuckers and never had a problem.

[Toy77]

hey guys,

my bolts just arived, have instructions - instruction 5

"lubricate bolt under the head and on the threads with ARP moly assembly lubricant and torque the bolts to 58ft/lbs. (for 30wt motor oil, torque bolts to 85ft/lbs)"

im assuming this means if i dont have the arp lube then use motor oil and torque it tighter.

i thought i was supposed to loctite the bolt?

85ft/lbs sounds like alot - i dont have a torque wrench, but plan to by tomorrow arvo...

Cheers
Stew

[chaserbuddy]

hey guys,

my bolts just arived, have instructions - instruction 5

"lubricate bolt under the head and on the threads with ARP moly assembly lubricant and torque the bolts to 58ft/lbs. (for 30wt motor oil, torque bolts to 85ft/lbs)"

im assuming this means if i dont have the arp lube then use motor oil and torque it tighter.

i thought i was supposed to loctite the bolt?

85ft/lbs sounds like alot - i dont have a torque wrench, but plan to by tomorrow arvo...

Cheers
Stew

remember arp flywheel bolts are for 4AG motor so the instructions would be for a 4AG motor. you need to put loctitle thread locker 243 or something simular, 1jz torque is whatevers stated for a 1jz ie 45-48nm and then a further 90degree or 85 ft/lbs.

[IN 05 NT]

you need a thread sealant, no matter what it is..... as the 1j's arent a sealed crank, and will leak thru the threads,

85foot pounds is similar to a wheel nut torque,

edit: actually, 80-120nm is a wheel nut....dunno what thats in ft pnds,

[nitros13]

why did you use a rattle gun? Why wouldnt you use a torque wrench?

85ft pounds is pretty tight, tighter than wheel studs. When i was doing the Mazda I was told to set the touque pretty well spot on as the bolts have a certain stretch that is achieved at that particular torque.