i got the same problembut with a w58 in my celica.. bled the clutch line? or have you replaced the slave once before? or what did you do last time?
I'm runnig a stock 18r-c in my RA28, I've got no idea what kind of box behind it as I've go not much interest in this setup, anyway my clutch is being screwy, the best way to describe it is that the clutch(as in the pedal when I push it in) is shallow, I can still change gears just but it is deteriorating. Any ideas/help/instructions would be very much appreciated as I'm sick of making my mechanic rich. A similar thing has happened before and I think it was something to do with my clutch slave.
i got the same problembut with a w58 in my celica.. bled the clutch line? or have you replaced the slave once before? or what did you do last time?
Bagged Gs430 Daily
Ra23 Cruiser
ah..theres no room fror pride here, I don't know how, instructions would be appreciated, all I know is I've gotta take the little tubber cap off the clutch slave then what? Last time I took it to a mechanic and he replaced the seal (I'm pretty sure) I've checked all the line and seal though and its seems to be all dry and the fluid is still pretty high. Sorry for my ignorance but I suppose I've gotta start somewhere/
What's 'shallow', it means nothing to me?? Can you go a little more 'in depth' with the description?Originally Posted by rancidpunk
How much freeplay does it have - pushing down on the pedal until it meets a little resistance requires how many mm or in?
Does the clutch start to engage/grab when the pedal is just barely being eased off the floor or up on top near the beginning of its travel, just barely being pushed down?
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
theres no resistance what-so-ever until about maybe 2 inches from the floor, other than that you can just tap it with no pressure at all until that point.
how old is the clutch
any wet brake fliud behind clutch master (use torch inside cabin)
exedy sport clutch kits only operate 2 inches off the floor
try bleeding- hold clutch pedal down to the floor, get helper to undo bleed nipple on slave cylinder. pump pedal up to get pressure up again.. repeat this procces ( tighten bleeder before trying clutch pedal feel )
do this a few times and see if theres any improvment
also brake fluid and clutch fluid are the same thing --dont refill with anything else.
Last edited by frostyadonis; 10-01-2009 at 06:18 PM.
for all I know clutch is original, definately not sports clutch. I did try looking for fluid along the line but found none, I'll look behind the clutch master, I didn't think about that. Will bleed it and see how it goes. Thanks for your help.
Checked behind the clutch master, there is a bit of fluid there and the seal looks a bit worn? To replace do I just detach the clutch master and put a new one on? Do you have to bleed it dry to do this?
replacing the clutch master is a little tricky/awkward. you have to remove the split pin thats connected to the clutch pedal and removing nuts on back of the master,not that easy for a beginner. if you tackle the job yourself make sure you loosen the 10mm pipe nut (will be tight) before removing the master nuts. theres no need to bench bleed before install that only applies to brake masters.
tools required
pipe spanner 10mm (if you dont have one use a large shifter. make sure its
a tight fit. you dont want round the pipe nut)
12mm socket,extension,rachet
pliers, flat blade screwdriver
any dramas dont hesitate to ask for help........good luck........
If there was air in the system, there would be slightly increasing resistance, and rapid pumping would would compress the air it enough to make it feel almost normal.Originally Posted by rancidpunk
You are not able to see any seal, that is only a dust boot and any sign of liquid means replace or rebuild!
Replacement is just replacing it, then any air in the system system must be purged - bleeding it.
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
Thanks for the help guys. Got it off today with pretty easily bar the nut on the inside of that cabin, took the dust cover off, seals look pretty stuffed to me, I sourced another MC from the wreckers today for $20 so I'm going to chuck it in tommorow. One question I do have is what type of fluid should I be using dot 3 or 4?
Thanks
dot 4 is ok
Is there a easy (or any) way of getting the bolt on the inside of the firewall off? Or do I have to take the clutch pedal off aswell?
No. I beleive this nut requires a lot of patience and cursing to remove and then reinstall. It's recessed in the frame for the pedals or something and involves an open ended spanner being flipped over constantly after each 1/8 turn. Only other way I could think to get it off would be to use a deep socket and one of those unijoints on the ratchet.
Glen
Thanks Glen,
I got it finally with much swearing and a lot of WD40. Now just the install...
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