Got any video of this thing in action? I'd love to hear what the 2GR sounds like when you boot it in the guts...
Dynos are no-where near as consistent or reliable as people might think they are...that's why the 'shootout mode' was started, to give as close as equal across the board as possible. Basically a dyno is just acting as a brake against the force of the engine, and measuring the energy that's produced. Even a dyno dynamics dyno can read absolutely anything you like if shootout mode is disabled, the operator can double your power at the push of a button. The only way to use dyno output is as a comparison: Do a run, do your mods, then go to the same dyno with the same settings and do another run. For comparison between two cars, it can only be accurately done by doing back to back runs on the same dyno on the same day...
-RM.
Got any video of this thing in action? I'd love to hear what the 2GR sounds like when you boot it in the guts...
'77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...
it isn't very good, but here it is getting up to 4th on the dyno: http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=MVI_2997.flvOriginally Posted by RAd28
and here's the pull: http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=MVI_2998.flv
for some reason the camera split the single recording into two.
just keeping you guys posted. i want to see if i can hit the 300WHP number with the stock ECU. I'm getting headers manufactured which are a much better design than my original one.
These are 42mm equal length primaries with a 2.25" collector.
The other advantage these have is they will be being made in a production run so i can actually sell some to other people that want this swap. the retail price on these will be lower than my material cost on the initial set that i made personally.
Another note is that i was incorrect about the ECU throwing a fault after 160g/s of MAF air. so it may be possible to shove a few PSI of boost down the stock ECU's throat and it may handle it properly. i intend on instrumenting the fuel injectors to see what my max duty cycle is and if there's room to grow, i'll see about forced injection.
oo... designed on CAD... i like...
I can't see the merge collector so well, but it looks from that angle like your last bends form part of it... i can only imagine that being a nightmare to cut up. Also, personally i'd break each length of pipe up into it's components... i.e. 2 bends, and 3 straights... just for being pedantic if nothing else...
'77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...
Actually no, the collector is only in the strait sections. the merge angle is 12* with each pipe coming in 120* from each other.Originally Posted by RAd28
I'm not sure what you're asking about the components. all three pipes have two bends each with a 57.5mm radius. also, the last angle coming into the collector is all in the same tangent direction so the exhaust gases should not fight each other as much. but that's just a speculation.
How common are wrecked 2GR's over there?
I know to fit the AWD (all-trac) transmission onto a 1MZ, that some metal needs to be taken off both the engine & box to make them fit.
All of the AWD transmissions fitted to the 1MZ & 3MZ are automatic, and therefore have a smaller transfer case![]()
It would be interesting to see if the 2GR has some allowance already for a larger transfer case due to the increase in power (206kW vs 173kW).
If Mitsubiski can fit an AWD Lancer EVO gearbox to a V6 Magna...![]()
the 2GR's are available enough that $2500-3000 US can buy you one any day of the week. there are far more common motors, but Americans like their big motors so there are no shortages of these around.Originally Posted by wagonist
the 2GR has a very wide crank case to fit 6 bolt mains which makes the older style transfer case impossible to fit, but i bet with a bit of persistence it would be possible to fit one of the newer transfer cases to an E153 transmission.
Already have an E151F transmission, so it will fit on the same as your E153.
It'd be more of a case of working out how much grinding would be necessary to match the box to the engine.
From someone doing this with a 1MZ motor, this is more because the engine is a V shape and interferes part of the way up the block, not the bottom end.
Too much interference though & there'd be issues with oil & water galleries.
Any updates on this mate ?
what updates would you like?
the headers are nearing completion, i should be able to sell them here in a few weeks.
here are some shots of the first units (not exactly like the final units will be, but close)
![]()
Actualy, there is another update. Paul Woods has completed a swap using my kit as a starter here: http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=14236
Nice work, and quick reply !!!
I bought myself an MR2 a few weeks ago, (NA model ) and if you go searching for the SOS from Bombala thread, you can see the adventure I had with it. It's currently not registered, so I'm thinking an engine swap sooner rather than later would be good.
Got a couple other cars to fix before I can pay around with my toy though, will watch this thread with interest to see the rights and wrongs about swapping this engine.
EDIT : Checking the link now.
EDIT 2 : Requires registration, off to do that now.
yeah, sorry about the registration required. also, most of the updates are posted on MR2OC.com first. you may want to keep an eye out over there.Originally Posted by greywolf
the only issue right now is the inability to remove all ECU codes that light the check engine light. but none cause the ECU to go into Limp mode.
that problem exists even with 3VZ-FE swaps
though i havent checked twobrutal in a while to see if theyve figured out those issues
1992 MR2 GT turbo
2009 Lexus IS-F
Built Australia's first V6 MR2 >> Winner: "I'd Drive It" award - Toyfest '07
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