Body work welding? Tips n Tricks Please!

[timbosaurus]

Thanks Alex. I have a great respect for those who can do this in their profession and not rely on new panels and bog.

Oman, we are fortunate enough in Vic to have a really good TAFE down here that has awesome equipment and teachers. It is by far the best way to get used to the tools, and once that is sorted you just practice practice practice.

The Vid's are great for motivation and idea's, but nothing like someone experienced teaching you.

[ReQuieM]

Yup this is a perfect example of why I like (most of) toymods! Thanks heaps guys, you just don't get this kind of help anywhere else.

Timbo I'll do what you said and give both a bash and let you guys know what I had the most success with.

OH and fyi the book I've been referring mostly to (which I've found incredibly helpful) is "Metal Fabricators Handbook" from HPBooks. Its good shit, easy to read and has so far steered me true. Worth a look if your getting into it the metal stuff

Edit: Sorry Timbo, I can't rep you for your trouble. Toymods says your already too awesome.

[sprite059]

Just quickly read the replys but can see if anyone has told you how to heat shrink. Firstly the filler rod is too big, use .8mm from left over mig roll, also it looks like your TIG is up just a little too high, I always use pulse on mine to help control the heat being put in. (MIG will put in more heat if you are going to seam weld)

Quickly how to heat shrink--- You will need a heat source such as a torch, you can use a propane/butane one if you have it. You will also need to have a hammer and dolly plus a wet rag. On the raised sections heat a section till it is red and the size of a 5cent piece and while still hot hit on the raised section with the hammer and dolly about 4 hits around the outside of the heated section and then one right in the middle. Cool quickly with the wet rag. Repeat until it has shrunk...but be careful as it can pull the whole panel in if you go too far and then you will have to stretch the weld again. I have sometimes done more than 30+ heat shrinks on a damaged panel to get it into shape. It would be good if you experimented, learnt on a scrap piece of steel to gain confidence.
If you google you may find something with pictures...never looked as I have been doing this stuff for about 30 years and the net wasn't round then.
Hope this may help.

[ReQuieM]

Definatly helpful thanks sprite!

A quick question tho, i think it was Alex that mentioned that people often have problems telling the difference between a shrunk and a stretched warp/damage, how can i tell if it has shrunk or stretched? Most of them are around areas that are rounded out, something like a quarter panel, around the weld its 'popped' back in so out of contour. Am I right in saying that the heat from the welding has shrunk the metal in that area? So I should be stretching the metal out from behind?

[sprite059]

1) If you have put heat into a panel either by just heat or by welding it is usually stretched so will do what is called oil caning, where it can be pushed in and out.
2) Hitting on the dolly with a hammer will also stretch the metal. (a Shrinking tool called a slapper will not shrink the metal but will reduce the stretching.
3) An over shrunk panel will often have almost a wave in it and you can see where it is pulling tight.I you suspect it is over shrunk panel beat on the dolly where the last weld is.
4) To prevent going from a stretched panel to an over shrunk panel only do a couple of heat shrinks at a time and give each one a couple of light taps on the dolly.
5) If you thinks you are close to the correct amount transfer metal around by using the off the dolly technique. I always slide the panel beating hammer as I hit to move the metal around. When I have taught classes how to do it I use the term massage the metal to get through that gentle is better. Never lay into a panel you are trying to repair or you will regret it.
6) Invest in a body file to tell you where the highs are. A body file also helps the process of making the metal go back into the correct place, it is not used to remove metal unless it is just a raised bead from the welding.
7) With TIG welding there almost should be no grinding ect to be done and can be totally flush on both sides. I sometimes also use wet paper towelling on each side of the weld to reduce distortion.
I know this is long winded but I hope it helps.

[kremsra28]

with my limited prac with similiar circumstances but reading many many books with different ppl doing stuff many different ways, any hammes/dolly/slapper/spoon that is cerrated (like a file) or has dimples (shronking hammer/dolly) are for shrinking metal, the ridges gather up the metal and shrinks it very slightly, hammer on dolly will strectch the metal, hammer off dolly will shape and move the metal without strecthing it (to a degree).

i have found that with the tig (i use .9mig wire) and have the amps on around 60-70, i only doaround 4-6 beads then stop, leave it a few mins then move onto the next section,

in some books ive read they suggest to cool the weld down with a wet rag, and in others the say never to, in my experince and just general knwoledge from reading all the books, they say that if you heat up metal then quench it, it hardens the metal, making it very brittle, therefore if you do the same after welding it, if the panel needs some planishing since the metal is very hard it can crack or tear, same if you beat on the metal too long, it will work harden and tear.

i have successfully been able to heat shrink panles with the tig torch, just turn the amps down to around 30-40, strike the arc where you need to shrink and then use it the same way you would with an oxy!!

in one book i read, it suggests that if you cant tell if the metal is shrunk or stretched, try shrinking it 1st, as its easier to strecth metal than to shrinkit.

goto the local library, sign up and get as many books on bodywork and sheetmetal as you can find, you will learn an absolute shitload, and they have great pics too!!

krem