4AGE crank/rods

[wombat]

I'm glad somone else actually understands what I mean. Thanks Bill & Merc Blue.

I'm pretty sure working purely for a motorsport company as merc blue does kinda gives him the right to say he builds race cars.

[oldcorollas]

And lastly, NA engines won't ever match the volumetric efficiency of a forced induction engine.

on a "per intake pressure" basis, turbo will NEVER match the VE of an NA motor.

on a per "intake mass" basis, turbo will never match NA.

on a per "intake volume" basis, turbo will be higher than NA as there is more oxygen in same(ish) volume

but on a per bare engine capacity basis, of course turbo will have more torque/L than NA.. duh... but turbo has lower efficiency.

is like saying nitrous engines have higher VE....

[MRMOPARMAN]

back on topic.. theres quite a few people that run 1.6l hydro's are running early 4ages.

admittedly not 170hp as they have to be kept stockish for class rules, my mates hydro holds 8200rpm on a stock blueprinted (rebuilt obviously) early 4age, been together atleast 6 seasons now with just servicing. you might know him rohan.. works for FPR

[beerhead]

Sry for the off topic, but 20V's not making over 150hp is the biggest load of crap ever to be spread on the internet, it's a misconception and a lie, no two dyno's are alike, but with a motec a blacktop in factory form can be tuned to almost 100kw atw.

Flywheel Power of a 20V
Approx AU fuel/ JDM Silvertop / Blacktop
150 hp 158 hp 162 hp
111 kw 118 kw 121 kw

Drivetrain loss = approx 20%
Wheel power

89.5kw 94.4 kw 96.8 kw

Those figure on a brand new motor ... I've seen good import motors make similar power, on honest dynos, on our crappy fuel. If people would find experienced dyno tuners for there 20V motors they wouldn't get such a bad wrap. A good tuner can even tune out the flat spot when the VVT comes on too.

Dimitri high compression forged pistons for 18mm gudgeon are easily available from places like SPS who made the group A pistons for 4AGEs, not cheap but a good piston.



20Vs didnt make 150 BHP stock that was a case of bent truth from toyotas marketing.
plus getting them to 170-180 HP isnt easy becasue of the over complicated inlet and combustion chamber... hence 20Vs arent good engines

Have you seen a early 16V rod next to a GZE rod. there is no comparison the GZE rod is about twice the thinkness.
How can any of the information related to the GZE realate to the early bottom end.

I didnt ask for the opinion of people with no proof. i wanted experiences and evidence


Comp would be in the 10.5-11: 1 range.

Most of the engines i build have limitless budgets and therefor i would just get a hollow journal crank made, rods and pistons. but alas thats not the money i have to spend on my own engine.

[Billzilla]

Sry for the off topic, but 20V's not making over 150hp is the biggest load of crap ever to be spread on the internet, it's a misconception and a lie, no two dyno's are alike, but with a motec a blacktop in factory form can be tuned to almost 100kw atw.

That's two areas you're covering there.
No, on Aussie fuel and a stock ECU they do not make over 150hp at the crank. This has been tested accurately on the Motec engine dyno - A silvertop made 145hp and a blacktop 148hp. (I think ..... I'm a bit tired right now so the numbers might be a little out)
They may well make more with an aftermarket ECU and this shouldn't be a surprise.

[oldeskewltoy]

Some 20V and 4AGZE results....

Some direct comparisons... and although not on the same day... all were done on the same dyno in the same shop

http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8059
http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?p=86745

I've had boost(Fox bodied U.S Capri - Garrett boosted with variable boost).... I've had cubic inches 428SCJ Ford, and 400 RamAir IV Pontiac.

I prefer to make a few hp with each CAREFULLY planned mod... its a craftsmanship thing..........