3tgte not starting - problem solving steps

[mattlock]

Awsome guys cheers 4 that, Roger.. you where spoton with that PC wire wasnt earthed seems it earths itself through the body of the pressure sender.... typical, we checked all but that !@#$. Good news is its now running, is now chugging dirty smoke when boost is starting to come on.... looks to be way rich at posotive pressure, im gonna have to play. The CT26, cooler n plumming and manifold all arived 2day just in time as well, we have to get it running cleaner b4 all that goes in anyway.

Roger feel free to come down ova the weekend if you have the time, could always use another brain to fuel thoughts.

Cheers all,

Matt.

[3jcelica]

Matt,

Good to hear it is running.

The only thing that I can think of that would make it run rich would be the Air flow meter spring or the air bypass (to little air being bypassed causing the vane to move further), or the cold start injector being blocked on.

You may be able to lean it off by bypassing air around the air flow meter. There is a large screw on the top of the AFM that can be adjusted to bypass air around the vane, if this is opened up then the vane should move less => less fuel => leaner. Note any changes you make to the AFM are across the board, i.e. idle will be affected as well as full load etc.

However if you have not touched the AFM I would be inclined to leave it and look elsewhere

Could also be the fuel pressure reg not acting as it should at positive pressure (starndard reg??).

Unless the smoke is caused by blowby, in which case it may fix it self after a bit of a run and the rings bed in. Or the tubo seals are leaking into the exhaust which should also be seen at idle/no load.

With the CT26 you will need to make a new exhaust dump pipe if its straight from a supra. I did a quick and nasty fix by cutting of the cast flange and welding to that, but would like to get it done properly in the future, so let me know if you are going to get one made up, as I will grab a flange also which may reduce the cost.

Roger

[mattlock]

Cheers Roger,

If it is blowby, hope it dose fix itself as we didnt change rings as the engine got good compressioin b4 head came off.
Once the head was off we found the forgies, there was no visible bore ware or ring ridge at the top of the cylinder, and you could still clearly see the honeing marks in the bores.
The Engine came str8 from Japan like this and looked like it had very little use, as in when it was split, it was clean as a whistle in side even the pistons were still polished...

Spose we'll put some K's on it and prey.

All the turbo upgrade stuff came from a guy on this sight, the manifold has had the ct20 flange cut off and the ct26 flange welded on, and verry clean as well. the dump was modded to suit the ta22 as well, just have to weld it to the front pipe, feel free to come check it out if ya want Roger.

Cheers

Matt.

[79GT]

hey matt
just out of interest. at what point did the last 3T start hitting boost. (before you took it out)

just wondering as mine hits boost at like 3500-4000, so not so sure if thats the usual or there is something else going on.

good to here you got it running. i was gonna run the ct26 but the one i got was a dud, but either way looks like you got a good deal with the whole set up done for you.

maybe rename this thread 3tgte not starting - problem solving steps.
It basically covers everything.

Laters

[mattlock]

79GT,
The standard turbs (ct20) starts to spool from about 2,300 and is reaching full boost by 3,500 Rpm. Dont Know about the 4TGTE (lucky bastard ) it may spool a little later but sounds like yours is comming on a little to late???

Good idea on the thread name change..... done.

Matt

[79GT]

mmmmmm. ok well i have the ct20 on mine, and you would think because of the bigger capacity it would spool faster.....

so next Question....why would it be hitting boost later.....actuator screwed maybye....

Jamie