2JZ-GTE Oil Pressure / Oil Leak problem

[ProjectSleeper]

I am tearing my hair out here...

My 2JZGTE that is fitted in my Cressida has developed an oil leak that just WILL NOT go away..

The leak is coming from the Oil Pressure relief valve that is located on the front of the engine, just above the crankshaft seal and pully (see pic)



The leak was coming from around and under the plug/nut.

1st time we replaced the O-ring (which was not a genuine item, but was as close to the original we could get. - It still leaked...

So, We pulled the thing apart again and we replaced the whole Oil Pressure Valve with the genuine items - (Valve, Spring, O-ring and Plug/Nut).. It still fugging leaks..

Any Idea what could be causing it, or what may cause high oil pressure.

The Oil is regulary changed (every 3/4,000km), I use only Genuine Toyota Oil Filters are used. We have tried different viscosity oils (0W-40, 10W-40, 15W-50 and 20W-50)

Can anyone shed any light on this ??

[urantia]

Wild shot, but worth checking. Are your PCV pipes able to breath?

Just yesterday i solved the issue of why my postie was leaking oil for years. The breather pipe was blocked up and was generating alot of pressure inside the engine that could only escape by forcing oil out of the weakest links, usually an oil seal.

But to leak thru a nut like that i'm abit stumped, it's got to be to do with the surfaces/copper o-ring seal in my opinion.

[wilbo666]

It might be worth getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge to confirm that you don't have high oil pressure

Stuck oil pressure relief in the pump may be a cause of high oil pressure.

If you don't have an oil pressure problem, perhaps a small amount of sealant on the O ring would also help.

Cheers
Wilbo

[gianttomato]

The manual suggests tightening the plug to 29 Nm for a 2JZGTE - also there is that O ring thing going on. With the 2JZGE, there's a gasket and a plug is done up to 49 Nm. No idea why they're different. Maybe some high temp silicone in the threads to help?

[ProjectSleeper]

Thanks Guys,
appreciate the responses..

Here are some pics of the old valve etc that came out, along with the new ones that went in.. (shows you the size of the nut/plug). The old valve came out without any problems, no sticking or seizing etc.. (I even fitted and removed the new one to see if it felt any different - it didn't..

OLD


NEW


This is the only place that has any leaks. I would have thought that if the pressure was way too high, it would pick a crank seal or similar "easier" path to haemorrhage from ???

Replacing the valve is not the hard part (I bought a spare one anyway) it's the 4 hrs removing everything and puting it all back together that sucks..

I did notice the difference in the torque settings, along with the washer vs o-ring....

What would be the best sealant/goop/etc to use....

[chris davey]

could you use the tape stuff that plumbers use? Just wrap it around the thread before you put it in.

[gianttomato]

Not so sure about that. The teflon tape tears quite easily and it would be quite easy for a small portion to end up in the oil and then somewhere it shouldn't.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

i thought oil and thread tape did agree with eachother?

[gianttomato]

Yep it does, but a small piece of teflon tape and trimetal bearings don't.

[slide86]

How bout using some threebond or similar sealant around the oring. Then fit it and torque it up to the atmo engine spec of 49Nm.

The sealant should fix the problem and the extra torque is just for good measure.
Pretty damn annoying to have to pull all that stuff apart each time

[Viper]

You could also try a copper washer instead of the O-ring and torque it up good.
Atleast that way it wont split or degrade and leak

[thechuckster]

maybe the face which that o-ring seals agaist is flogged out? or there's a crack on the thread or o-ring face allowing oil to get past the o-ring.

you might not have enough mating areas for a copper washer to seal there and it wouldn't address the problem of why oil is getting around the o-ring.

does the underside of the bolt sit flush on the allow casting?

[ProjectSleeper]

Funny you mention that chuckster,

I was having a closer look at the pics and noticed....

notice the scoring above the thread...

here is the Nut/Plug to give you and idea where the o-ring sits...

[thechuckster]

fwiw: the oil-pressure relief valve on my humble old 18Rte (bolts onto alloy housing that the oil-filter attaches to) does have a copper washer - but that's because it doesn't have an the o-ring.

am not sure if it's the light, but the top of that entry point - just above where the o-ring would sit - it looks like the hole tapers outwards. but as you obviously infer, the scoring is where the o-ring would sit.

Viper's probably right - try a copper washer?

[SL666]

seems wierd that the o-ring is above the thread... if it the o-ring thats supposed to be the seal, it isn't going to matter what you torque the nut down to, and from the photo of the top it looks like the mating surface wouldn't be any good for a copper washer either..

definately the right o-ring? feels like it seals on the way in?

hang on.. should oil 'pressure' be getting behind that anyway? if im right there shouldn't be pressure there.. the pressure should be behind the piston at the bottom, and if the pressure gets too high, the piston is pushed up against the spring pressure, and it should vent it back to the sump? is this correct? is the passageway to the sump blocked or something? could you get a pipe cleaner down it?

you are 200% sure that its coming out through that plug?