Leaking Capacitors on the Stock ECU can cause this too. There are a couple of threads on here on it as well as at catspyjamas.com.au.
I guess a dirty/faulty AFM may do it to (bad wiring to it?)
About a few months, I recently swapped out my 2E engine for a 20V silvertop. I did the conversion myself and I'm having a bit of an issue with my idling, hunting. It did about 850 at average for idling and swings about 50rpm or less on a random note.
So far I've tried to check for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. I'm currently looking onto the TPS. E2 and IDL seem to only have either infinity or zero ohms. Is this ok or is there something wrong with my TPS? If it's not the tps, what else could be my problem? Then sometimes if i let the throttle off I'd get an rpm idle less than 500 then climbs up to 800-1.1k rpm.
I've also checked my ISCV and it gave out proper readings on an ohmeter(hot and cold). Ive also cleaned it after i swapped it in and just last night too.
I dont yet have powersteering hose so i clogged up all the vacuum/pressurized lines individually. And I have only driven the car for no more than 2hours combined as i need to have it registered first.
Any help or inputs would be greatly appreciated.![]()
Leaking Capacitors on the Stock ECU can cause this too. There are a couple of threads on here on it as well as at catspyjamas.com.au.
I guess a dirty/faulty AFM may do it to (bad wiring to it?)
AE90 Silvertop - GONE; 2001 ST215W GT-T Manual - SOLD; EP82 Starlet GT - Sold
Now driving 20V Turbo 1.8 N-S FWD
Take off the plenum and clean out the throttle bodies. Guaranteed they will be gummed up with crap.
I had the same issue with mine, to the point where it was even stalling sometimes cos the idle went too low. Cleaned out the throttle bodies with some carby cleaner and some rags, and now it idles MUCH MUCH better.
...... butt scratcher?!
Originally Posted by The Witzl
i did the manifold/throttle body cleaning yesterday as well. only thing it did was start up faster atleast. the hunting is still there though. i cleaned it with 2liters of gasoline. took me more than 5hours taking it down, cleaning and putting it back on.
I was also looking onto the AFM. Does anybody have a troubleshooting guide for a 20V afm?
Then is the TPS just fine? It doesnt have any value aside from a zero or infinity. Well it's in range atleast. I also have that TPS troubleshooting in my files. Thanks!
so long as the IDL switch is connected to earth when your foot is off the throttle, and then it is disconnected from earth when you *just* crack open the throttle, then the TPS is ok.
Other things to check - remove ISCV and give it a clean out with carby cleaner. Another thing ive done before is with the engine running, remove the hose for the ISCV input and spray carby cleaner down it... that cleans it pretty well.
Otherwise, check the capacitors on the ECU. Here is a thread i wrote about it:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27814
...... butt scratcher?!
ok thanks. input very much appreciated. i took the whole iscv down a few months ago and cleaned it with gasoline. ill try it again later.Originally Posted by The Witzl
will a broken voltage regulator on my alternator affect idling as well?
as i was checking my ISCV, i notice that when i hit the accelerator the exit hose fluctuates. and upon closer inspection, i found my culprit.![]()
was a leaky vacuum hose of the ISCV exit. many thanks for the inputs!![]()
glad to hear you found it!
A leaking hose after the AFM will definitely cause you grief
...... butt scratcher?!
I had same issues too, my silvertop 20v unstable rpm, need to press aceler pedal, if not my car going to dies...i have checked all sensor and wiring all seem good...anyone can help me??...
Originally Posted by The Witzl
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