2tgeu install help

[w810sc]

Did you also do a wet test with oil as your rings could be shot too?
The last 2T-G motor I bought had all but one set of intake and exhaust valves bent and guides cracked. Was a piece of cake, just had to buy some new valves and guides as the rest of the head was ok. You can buy valve spring compressor tools at your local auto spares shop but just make sure it fits the OHC type and no the rocker and push rod assembly type as they have different spring compressor access. You could be creative and duplicate a G - clamp that has a wide/deep gap and an open compressor end for ease of removing the valve locks as I've seen some one post up on here.
While the head is off you might as well check (if your keen):
- cam lobe to bucket clearances
inlet: 0.010 to 0.013 inch
exhaust: 0.012 to 0.015 inch
- oil delivery in the head (blow in the oil holes of your cams to check if they are blocked)
- oil feeds on first cam cap/bearing not blocked in/ex
- oil squirter aimed at the intake cam gear, make sure it's not blocked.
- valve spring squareness

and get that damn 'cam gear lock pin' out of your sump, It's making me nervous lol!.
- put car on stands
- drain oil
- place hydraulic jack under bell housing for support to holding the motor up
- loosen engine mounts
- remove the gear box/bell housing supports around the rear of the sump to gain access to sump bolts
- loosen cross member and lower slightly
- loosen and remove the sump bolts
- If you have a high volume oil pump they are a tad longer than stock and you will need to un-bolt it to lower the sump as the strainer will foul the upper baffle. [use a 12mm socket and lock pliers/vice grip, cause you have no room to fit the socket anywhere]

As for the head, worst come to worst just use your other head combined with your other goodies, oh if you have 88222 head cams put them in. They have a slightly more aggressive profile than the 88261 head cams.
Good luck!
fonz

[Neverland]

how would I remove the valve guide? heat the area breifly with a heat gun, then 'knock it out?

[Neverland]

Took it to Phillip Head Services and was quoted $50 to replace the valve and and valve guide. That doesn't seem too bad. I was thinking more 100, so I'm happy. Dave also said that he'd do a compression check so it might actally be a bit more. Peace of mind is always better
should be ready Mon.

[Neverland]

Well just talked to Phillip head service and its ready to pick up
Dave mentioned everything was fine and it all went smoothly. Compression test of the head was good too.
All I need to do now is put her back together and *touchwood* she'll start straight away

[79GT]

thats awesome mate, well done, it really epitamises, that you have to double the time you think a conversion is gonna take. lol

touch wood it goes back together nicely and kicks over B E A utifully.

[Neverland]

thats awesome mate, well done, it really epitamises, that you have to double the time you think a conversion is gonna take. lol

touch wood it goes back together nicely and kicks over B E A utifully.

SOOOO True 79GT..... started 31Dec07 ---> Still going now

[Cob604]

hey guys

im in the boat as Neverland, but worse.
i moved the timing chain around on my 2t-g due to previous owners advice & bent all the valves, the cam holding pin fell out while cranking & it fouled piston no.1 & then i dropped the holding pin down in the sump

Compression test
Dry wet
No.1 0 0
No.2 60 70
N0.3 40 30
No.4 70 120

I know its wack, but as i said the holding pin fell out & fouled no.1,
No.2 & No.4 moved the timing chain
No.3 which im suprised means the rings didn't seat right or something else, basically they arnt sealing (old owner just got head recod now with bent valves & he put flat top pistons in it )

So the engine comes out this saturday & its getting a complete rebuild. Will their be any damage to the block since it has 600,000km's

Also i dropped the holding pin down the front of the chains & into the sump. To get it out:
*Drain oil
*Jack up under crossmember (not to high)
*Put stands under chassis
*Un do all the sump bolts
*Tilt the sump forward (cant come out because of cross member but it doesnt have to)
*Get a $10 extanding magnet from repco etc & just stick it in & fish for it

I got mine after about 10 mins, BUT thats the quick way, the long way & proberbly better way is w810sc's way.

Let me know how you go?

What have you done to the engine so far e.g std rebuild or more

thx

[Neverland]

Still no go
Set the Cams up as per manual instruction.
set elect. dizzy to point to number 1
cranked her over and..... nothing..
She had spark could see the sparks through the cap( night time and clear cap are cool )
then after about 2 mins of shifting the dizzy to diff degs and cranking got her to fire, but sent a puff out the intake? what does this mean?
Also cranking her again got a low tone 'booom' which resonated the carport( kinda like a subwoofer?
does this mean the dizzy is too advanced?
how many cranks does it normally take to fire up?

[wheel rim]

Neverland,
Disconnect the cold start injector,as in remove it and plug the hole, it may be stuck open flooding the engine.


cheers,
Wheel Rim

[Neverland]

Neverland,
Disconnect the cold start injector,as in remove it and plug the hole, it may be stuck open flooding the engine.


cheers,
Wheel Rim

That could be more that likely. When I take the plugs out they are wet with fuel and I have to dry them.
Also regarding the timing what is the best combination for the cams?
I read a post by Dana about advancing the inlet cam and retarding the exhaust cam. Can someone pleae confirm this?
As with the dizzy, According to Invid mine has the internal ignitor. is there a special way of setting them up
Thanks again
David

[wheel rim]

Dave,
If your getting spark it should be fine. I had the same trouble with mine until I worked out it was flooding.Also check that the regulator on the fuel rail is not stuck shut.


Cheers,
Wheel Rim

[Neverland]

Thanks wheel rim.
I'm pretty sure the regulator is fine. at the moment I have a clear plastic fuel filter attatched just after the regulator going into the return line(temporarily so I could see the fuel flowing through it)
now just to confirm, fuel runs constantly through the rail while the afm gae is open correct> Also does your pump 'prime' when you turn the key to ign?

Dave,
If your getting spark it should be fine. I had the same trouble with mine until I worked out it was flooding.Also check that the regulator on the fuel rail is not stuck shut.


Cheers,
Wheel Rim

[YelloRolla]

Thanks wheel rim.
I'm pretty sure the regulator is fine. at the moment I have a clear plastic fuel filter attatched just after the regulator going into the return line(temporarily so I could see the fuel flowing through it)
now just to confirm, fuel runs constantly through the rail while the afm gae is open correct> Also does your pump 'prime' when you turn the key to ign?

It shouldn't if the pump is hooked up correctly for the stock ECU. Remember it uses the cranking to trigger the pump relay and then the airflow meter lets it know that the engine is running - if you remove either of these signals then the pump should not run at all.

[Neverland]

Thanks yellowrolla, Im 98% sure its how its setup. eg while ign is in ON pos. if you open the metal flap in the AFM the pump starts to run. then let it close it stops. correct?

[YelloRolla]

100% correct.