2tgeu install help

[Neverland]

the engine used to idle with no exhaust header hooked up(very lumpy and sounded out of tune). But when i put the header on it takes about 1/2 throttle and 5-10 cranks for it to get get going and splutter its guts out Also as stated before, I still have to hold the throttle open.
would this happen if the dizzy timing is way out?

["Z" UTE]

Hi there, good to hear it is running. Step by step, from now on. Set your base timing to 8-10deg, lock the dizzy, and leave it alone. Then you can start to adjust idle RPM, everything should start falling into place.

Make sure all the new wires you have added are adequately crimped and sheathed with heat shrink.

cheers Chuck.

[Neverland]

Hi there, good to hear it is running. Step by step, from now on. Set your base timing to 8-10deg, lock the dizzy, and leave it alone. Then you can start to adjust idle RPM, everything should start falling into place.

Make sure all the new wires you have added are adequately crimped and sheathed with heat shrink.

cheers Chuck.

Thanks Chuck for the help the other day
To do this, #1 piston TDC, harmonic balance grove to 10 deg, then align dizzy to the rotar button on pison 1 ? is this correct?

["Z" UTE]

Hi Dave, pull the dizzy cap, and roughly position the crank and dizzy for firing no1 cylinder. Position the timing mark on the harmonic balancer in line with the 8-10 degree mark on the timing chain cover. Then position the hall effect sensor and the No1 dizzy shaft segment so that they are adjacent to each other, then lock the biatch down. Your rotor button when now installed should be very close to being in alignment with the dizzy cap No 1 plug post.

(Cautionary note, do not put feeler guages between the hall effect sensor and the shaft segment. At this point it is not necessary to try and adjust that clearance.)

Cheers Chuck.

[Neverland]

thanks chuck I did what you said set crank in between the timing marks 12-5deg , so roughly 10 deg. Then with the rotor, positioned it on the contact of # number1 . With the hall sensor, is it like the contact point on mech dizzy? if so this is how it set it up

When cranking it feels like it wants to go, but as soon as I let the key go she dies
could there be a fuel issue now? I'm totally stumped
ps could i have stuffed up the cam timing?

[sleeektoy]

Do the numbers in the diagram correspond to the cylinders that the leads go to???
If so they are in the wrong order.

The firing order is 1-3-4-2

if not - When cranking the engine(with the distributor cap off) watch the direction the rotor turns and then set the leads in the 1-3-4-2 order from the # 1 lead that you have set already.

["Z" UTE]

Still sounds like you have ignition only on crank, and not on ignition from the ignition switch. And yeah like sleektoy said with the firing order.

Might be worth rechecking the cam timing.

If you have been rotating the engine without the cam sprocket pin in place, you will have bent valves. I fail to see how the pin/dowel could have come out, unless the guy who built the engine had NFI.

cheers Chuck.

[Neverland]

I have a feeling the inlet cam bolt was loose after soooo many cranks, and a backfire could have done it.
the leads are 1 3 4 2.
apart from taking the head off to check the valves, is the only way with a compression tester?
ps if they are bent, I'd have no compression right?

[jfallen]

^^bent valves = very low compression.

sorry to hear of your problems, hope you get them sorted soon
Jordan

[Neverland]

Thanks Jordan,
Does anyone know how much a compression tester will cost?

["Z" UTE]

Cheap ones available from supercheap about $30.00, dont expext them to lasy years though. Personally, I would just rip the head off, and take it down to Phillip heads, near Pedders in Phillip. Because with only one full rotation of the crank, with a non moving cam shaft, you will have definately bent at least 1 valve.

cheers Chuck.

[sleeektoy]

If a valve is bent you can sometimes see a larger gap between the bucket and the cam when the lobe is away from the bucket - due to the valve not closing properly.

[Invid]

Position the timing mark on the harmonic balancer in line with the 8-10 degree mark on the timing chain cover. Then position the hall effect sensor and the No1 dizzy shaft segment so that they are adjacent to each other...

Just when I think I'm starting to understand engines.. Huh?? You put the hall balancer in the dizzy effects sensor... what?...

He he

[w810sc]

It makes perfect sense you just have to understand the terminology.
On the crank pully (a.k.a. harmonic balancer) there is a timing mark notch, line this up to 8 - 10 degrees on your timing chain cover, then you take your distributer cap (rotor cap) off - since its a GEU, there is a signal generator (magnet) and signal rotor (the shaft where your rotor button sits on). On the signal rotor there are 4 high points, these high points acts as triggers when it passes the signal generator (air gap should be between 0.008 to 0.016 inch). Line up the signal rotor point to the signal generator where it fires on cylinder one.
fonz

[Neverland]

Well took the head off and confirmed 4 inlet valve bent.
compression test was
1 150
2 90
3 130
4 0
after closer inspection the valve guide in 4 had also cracked...........
maybe I should change the thread title to 2tgeu woes
Anyway on the bright side, I have a box full of spare valves and everything that goes along with it. also a spare head I can use for parts.
How much will it cost to get the valves replaced and the head checked?