Bosch coils on 1JZ igniter?

[hickman]

if you plan to go single soon,
just get MT LT12s with x6 iginiter and do the bosch coils at the same time. I have the same thing but used stock coils as they were still in good condition.

What would "MT LT12s with x6 iginiter and do the bosch coils at the same time." cost?? I'm retarded so how difficult is the upgrade/who could I get to do it?

[gztwenty]

About $1850
google Microtech and go to the first one there. They have a new online shop.
A new LTX12s is about 1395/1400, 6 bosch coils are $300, and the X6 ignitor is about $150.
If you are stock, then this is DEFINATELY the way I would have gone, but I already bought and installed a Greddy Emanage Ultimate. Cant wait to have it fully tuned.

[wilbo666]

Everyone seems to want to ditch the stock igniter, and a lot of people for the microtech x6...

Has anyone tested to see how much better (If any?) the x6 is compared to the toyota one?



Cheers
Wilbo

[takai]

Im not sure if it is any better, but it sure is a hell of a lot cheaper than sourcing a new Toyota one.

[Mos]

The terminals at the back are low voltage, +12V (battery) and the trigger from the igniter...
They shouldn't arc.

Tried scoping them? They spike a lot higher than 12V....

its not the voltage, its the amperage, and if youve ever been zapped by a faulty lead, they have a fair kick

I'm sorry, but that's simply not true - it IS the voltage and not the current that causes you to receive a kick. Your skin has enough resistance (impedance) that 12V will not go through - if you're feeling a kick it's because the voltage is much much higher. The high voltage from the spark plug causes you to receive a kick - if the current was high all your muscles would contract and you would potentially be thrown across the room.

Mos.

[takai]

After being hit with the Coil end of a HEI device i can certainly say that they go higher than 12V.

[chris davey]

If you want to stick with the EMU, I wouldn't want to switch igniters to x6 as I am then unsure how the stock ecu gets the IGF signal. (see other thread in tech section) A good condition igniter with a HKS DLI has been proven time and time again.

Microtech and x6 go hand in hand so if getting MT then x6 is the go.

If on stock ecu or piggy back setup, DLI is the go IMO

[1JZ.747]

Everyone seems to want to ditch the stock igniter, and a lot of people for the microtech x6...

Has anyone tested to see how much better (If any?) the x6 is compared to the toyota one?



Cheers
Wilbo

about 40 rwhp better back in the day with my back to back testing.

[JZA70 R]

What would that equate to on a stocker setup though?

[1JZ.747]

how long is a piece of string?

every application will be different depending on tuner, turbo, fuel etc.

[JZA70 R]

how long is a piece of string?

Don't quote me on this, but i heard its about 192mm long...

[131OWN]

Jabtronic, How is the OEM ignitor standing up running the bosch coils? Are you happy with the performance over the stock coils? what boost pressure are you running? Also just wondering if it is still possible to run a DLI with this setup?

[wilbo666]

about 40 rwhp better back in the day with my back to back testing.

Thanks!

What power level was that at? And boost...

To let me think of it in terms of a percentage sort of gain?!

Cheers
Wilbo

[ONETEN]

Thanks, over the last week I ordered the coils and did the conversion. I figured using relays for each coil wouldn't be a good idea so instead I simply hooked up a relay that supplies straight battery power to all the coils instead of through the wiring loom.

I'm still having slight missing problems though, could be because the pins in my igniter plug are screwed so I need to fix them up properly and see how it goes then.

I still need to take a pic of the final product with leads etc, I managed to tidy it up a bit, painted the bracket black and also mounted it a little lower.
Just a note to anybody else planning to do this, label the negative wires better than I did.. Mine are all black cause I planned on using the multimeter to find which was which, once it was all mounted. But when all the coils are connected by the positive wire chain it creates a 'polarity' on the multimeter so I had to disconnect each negative off the coil to find which wire it was with my multimeter.






You can see the 2nd pin from the left doesn't sit in the plug properly anymore, neither do a few others... I damaged them a while back when I was trying to remove the pins but forgot to take off the big gray part, in the end I got frustrated because they weren't coming out so I smashed them out with a big screwdriver Now I need to find a replacement plug lol.

Hey Jab,

See how you have the +ve source wired only to 1st coil like that??
That last coil or two in the row is going to get stooged HARD of +ve current, spesh at higher boosts & rpms, if i was you i would be connecting that last coil back to +ve source along with like the first one is. Plus, i would seriously be insulating those terminal on the backs of the coils, cause if they earth out on some peice of exposed metal, you can kiss that ignitor channel goodbye and possible even the offending coil.

[ONETEN]

Also, you guys do know that Jaycar sell a single channel ignitor kit, about 30 bucks from memory. Runs a hugemungeous darlington transistor and would spark-ignite 20w50 no problems. Get yourselves 3 of those babies and some dual outlet coils and i cant see you finding the limits of that setup on petroleum.

I use this same setup on my FJ20 when it first ran, started first kick from cold with pure black smoke out the exhaust running AFR's of like 10.5:1. Must admit i was impressed.

Using 20 psi now on the same set of plugs as when it was running rich as mud cake, and its still going strong.