Wideband O2 sensors, a few questions.

[YLD-16L]

I'd say the 2J1 is a fairly neatly finished/packaged product after having a look at 1JZ-Rollas one. No idea how size compares though, but it's fairly small and similar in size to the LC1 I think.

The unit I got is certainly no show pony in terms of looks though (grey ABS case with some buttons, plugs and LEDs), but that's not what it's for, it's the functions and claimed accuracy that is its purpose.

[The Witzl]

Here's a link to a pic of the whole LC-1 kit - http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com...novate-lc1.jpg

I havent looked at WBO2 products for about a year, so i dont know. I also got the p00s with them for not replying to my emails for over 2 weeks, so i bought the Innovate LC-1 (it was cheaper too)

[adamaw11]

well I can see an LC-1 with sensor kit for $199 USD
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...3741QQtcZphoto

and the tech-edge 2J1 kit (with sensor and no display) came to $253 AUD (does include an RS232 pc cable though)
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm

(damn whats the current exchange rate again?)
I'm guessing postage would be cheaper in aus too.

Havn't decided which one seems better value yet, but I think I need to look at the LC-1 a bit more. The WBO2 site certainly is good for info - thanks for pointing that out.

[JP]

for the innovative stuff, see http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources.php

[YLD-16L]

I havent looked at WBO2 products for about a year, so i dont know. I also got the p00s with them for not replying to my emails for over 2 weeks, so i bought the Innovate LC-1 (it was cheaper too)

Yeah, I'll agree that their reposnse to email is less than inspiring, but when I called them they were great and I had my whole setup within 24 hours (cashola discount of 10% too).

The LC1 is a great looking unit, I just went with the 3A2 because I figured I could use most of the inputs and outputs for logging, I also went with a 4m sensor cable so I can run it with a sniffer pipe on some other cars.

3A2 features see below:

*Accuracy within 0.1 AFR (Lambda +/- 0.005).
*10.5 to 19.5 Volt DC operation (up to 3 Amps).
*Uses LSU 4.0/4.2 (Bosch 6066/7057 family) or NTK (L1H1/L2H2) sensor.
*WBlin Configurable wideband 5 Volt output (12 bit accuracy).
*SVout for LD01 display (10 bit configurable too).
*NBsim narrowband (10 bit configurable too).
*3 analogue 0 to 5 Volt inputs sampled at up to 40/sec.
*4 thermocouple inputs (can be converted to analogue inputs).
*RPM input from Tacho or ECU for logging.
*PULSE input from VSS sensor or cruise control for logging.
*ALARM output with configurable software triggers, for shift lights, buzzers etc.
*5 volt output for powering external sensors such as MAP or TPS.
*Auto-cal button, one-touch calibration (with sensor in free-air).
*USB Full-Speed (12Mb/s) virtual serial port - designed for modern laptop computers *without RS232 ports. 100% compatible with existing PC software.
*On-board 1 M Byte logging memory downloads via USB and RS232 channels to PC.

I should get a chance to test mine for accuracy against a dyno shops one in the next couple of weeks.

The 2J1 is more of a direct comparison to the LC1 though:

http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm



*Accuracy within +/- 0.1 AFR over AFR 11 to 17.
*Differential WBlin wideband 0-5 Volt output.
*Uses new Bosch LSU 4.2 7200 sensor.
*WBlin configurable with 10 bit accuracy.
*Auto-cal button calibration with sensor in free-air.
*NBsim narrowband (10 bit configurable) output.
*2 analogue 0 to 5 Volt inputs sampled at up to 40/sec.
*RPM input from Tacho or ECU for logging.
*PULSE input from VSS sensor or cruise control for logging.
*10.5 to 19.5 Volt DC operation (up to 3 Amps).
*Free logging software (optional extra feature upgrade available).

LC1 or 2J1 I don't think you could go wrong either way.

[The Witzl]

yeah that 2J1 model looks like a new one... getting closer to being a finished product rather than an engineering sample too

[jampac]

I use the 2j1 with my power fc and fc -datalogit, works awesomely and reads very close to what you get from a professional meter used by dyno tuners.

[YLD-16L]

Another option for those who like to purchase locally (i.e. for warranty reasons etc) you can buy the LC1 through Haltech badged as a Haltech item. No idea how the price compares though as I looked into it ages ago.

[thechuckster]

except that one haltech dealer in BNE near me took so long to get stock from haltech main office that i gave up and got from from the US.

[BMWTurbo]

I use the LC-1... No issues.. Mine only takes maybe 10 seconds to heat, it's reading by the time I've backed out of the drive.

[adamaw11]

Just thought I'd post some of the wiring diagram for my ECU to ask another question


The fact that it doesn't mention any sort of wide-band-controller, and just has two wires for (presumably) the heater, and two wires for the signal to the ecu, could it be somehow implying that the ECU is doing the work of the wide-band-controller? or is the use of a controller just so implicit that they didn't need to show it in the diagram?

[brett_celicacoupe]

there is a bit involved in the controller. a few op-amps with all sorts of feedback.

i wouldnt wire your sensor up like that.

you might be able to piggy-back the grey and orange wire from the sensor and let the controller do the heating

[af300e]

My ems dualsport wiring diagram also tells me that I can simply wire up a wideband sensor directly to the ECU. Confused.

[millsi]

this might help, i have a stinger v3 and want to get a wide band. emailed through from the ems website to see what the price of the innovative kit would be and would it suit my stinger v3. heres the answer i got:

"Hi James

What serial no. is your system, if it begins with ST4xxxx then it is an
upgradeable version 3 to a version 4 but if it begins with ST3xxx then it
will only ever be a 3 and not upgradeable to a version 4.

If this is so then you can not use the LC-1, this can only be used with a
version 4, onwards or with the Motorsport series units.

The price for an LC-1 is Australian $360.00 + freight.

Regards

Nitsa"



So prettty much im fucked as i need the version 4 and mines onyl a 3. all good if i can find a 2nd hand cheap version 4 sor sale. or if the 8860 runs the same inputs and sensors (pretty much plug n play) then i will upgrade.

[thechuckster]

Just thought I'd post some of the wiring diagram for my ECU to ask another question


The fact that it doesn't mention any sort of wide-band-controller, and just has two wires for (presumably) the heater, and two wires for the signal to the ecu, could it be somehow implying that the ECU is doing the work of the wide-band-controller? or is the use of a controller just so implicit that they didn't need to show it in the diagram?

Tech edge seems to infer that it's not a true wideband sensor and a post on the innovate forums says '...it's a kind of narrow band 0-1 volt sensor with higher construction tolerance'

and bosch's product sheet about the sensor says it has a limited lambda range (0.68 - 1.32 where 1.0 is your 14.7 AFR) whereas the pump-cell wideband sensor like the LSU 4.2 is much more comprehensive in its abilities - tho it needs a controller.

you might have to dig around for a supplier as these only appeared in a few VWs and hondas.