3T GTE Tech

[rokugo]

Just sitting at my engine builder, about to pick up my rebuilt 3TGTE. Looking forward to taking it home and checking the timing - you just can't be too careful right?
Running 87mm Arias 8.5:1 comp pistons with Crower I-Beam rods. With the extra displacement and the GT2860RS i have to hook up to it, it should be a bit of fun. Still a way off drivable though. Still gotta do cooler/intake piping and wiring, etc. but at least the engine is done.

[steeko]

nice

out of interest, how much all up for the rebuild excluding parts?
most mechanics charge around $100 per hour!
Whilst I only get paid $35 per hour LOL

[rokugo]

nice

out of interest, how much all up for the rebuild excluding parts?
most mechanics charge around $100 per hour!
Whilst I only get paid $35 per hour LOL

Hey Steeko, I left the itemised receipt at work but I can say that the rebuild totalled out just shy of $3500. It did end up being a bit more of a head-ache and a little more involved than I initially desired. To put it simply, the original idea was to get my engine cleaned up before putting it into the car I'm building, but got bad news pretty quickly. The head was munted. I'll have to find the pics in my phone, but it was cracked between each and every spark plug hole and their neighbouring valve holes. The block bores were also deeply scored. I was quoted around $1000 to get it all fixed but decided to buy another motor that I knew of (low k, that has been in oz for about 13 years but never made it into a car since it arrived) for the same price. So had the new head and block tested, all good, and then decided to spend a bit more cash on it.
I went ahead and purchased the Arias pistons (and payed extra for chromoly side skirt coatings, ceramic crown coatings, heavy duty pins) and Crower I-beam Conrods (which cost me a lot more than Eagle H-beams and are complete overkill, but I had the cash to burn ). I just noticed how much I was ranting, sorry. Anyway, head rebuilt, block bored, o-ringed, etc, crankshaft/rods/pistons/flywheel/crank-pulley balanced by engine builder. They sourced all the engine bearings for me. I also had them build it to a long motor for me (including fitting the Moroso oil pan I bought for it, and the water pump, etc do they could smoke-test the crankcase, run pressurised oil through to check for leaks, and a coolant leak test too. I also got lazy and asked them to supply me a blanking plate for the oil return as the Moroso oil pan has its own oil return thread (making it a million times easier to get to it when fitted in the car!). They even timed the motor up for me (which was a debacle in itself, but that can wait for another rant).
So as I said initially, just under $3500 including the work on the 1st motor, all the work on the engine, the build and the bearings (and a crappy Repco oil filter, even though I have a drawer full of Toyota D2 filters ready to go).

Sorry all for the epic post.

[MorGo]

Many heads have a crack between plug hole and valve seat but it's just cosmetic flaw.Never have any trouble from those.
In fact I have never seen cracked -G head unless it was frozen.

Cromoly skirt coating??

[rokugo]

Many heads have a crack between plug hole and valve seat but it's just cosmetic flaw.Never have any trouble from those.
In fact I have never seen cracked -G head unless it was frozen.

Cromoly skirt coating??

Total brain fart, not cromoly, molybdenum coating on skirts which is supposed to help as an anti-friction coating. As for the cracks, according to the builder, some of the cracks weren't too bad but there were several that were borderline so I figured why take the risk? Especially since repairing them can soften the alloy in the head and cause problems down the track. The 2nd motor was immaculate and only had slight rust in the bores, which was eliminated completely by using the 2mm oversize pistons.

[Dan_k36]

Just some info I found out about the oil filter on a 3tgte while searching the web
Gen Toyota part number for filter 90915-yzzd1
Wouldn't let me copy the specs for some reason tho,
But I have had the farm filter spit the seal on my 2tgeu and then ran gen filters and never had a problem

But here's the web site
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/toyota.html

is thermally bonded shut at the ends about 3/16" inward.* This was accounted for in the surface area measurement, however this filter still has the largest surface area out of the entire group: 160 sqin.* The main reason for this is the narrow core tube, which allowed for very deep pleats and thus a very long filter element.* A wide core tube is not needed for such a short filter.* The filter does use a plastic bypass valve similar to the Fram filter, however I could not make this one leak.* It is also held in place by a steel clip rather than plastic tabs like the Fram.

[rokugo]

That's interesting, I use a D2 (90915-YZZD2) on mine with no troubles. I'll have to check at work tomorrow but I think from memory that the D2 is a smaller filter overall which made it heaps easier to get in and out from behind the engine mount, etc. I'll take a look at a D1 and compare it to the D2.

[Dan_k36]

D2 can be used as well by the way I forgot to write that

[rokugo]

Many heads have a crack between plug hole and valve seat but it's just cosmetic flaw.Never have any trouble from those.
In fact I have never seen cracked -G head unless it was frozen.

So i finally got the pic from my phone.
Attachment 14584

[Dan_k36]

Photo doesn't work

[rokugo]

hopefully it does now? If not, i don't know what the heck i've done.

[Dan_k36]

Wow those are really cracked arnt they,

[rokugo]

Too true, and every single valve to plug hole was like that. I am glad i grabbed the low k 2nd motor even if it set my rebuild back a little and left my wallet with an empty feeling.

[rokugo]

Just wondering if anyone's running different throttle bodies? I'm looking at getting a forward-facing intake plenum fabricated and reckon I might as well up the size of my butterfly. Is anyone running a custom plenum with an aftermarket TB? Or what about other Toyota TBs? 7MGTE? I've had a bit of a look around but can't decide on which way to go. I saw otomoto have a KKR 100mm for sale, but I think that may be a little too big for my set up. Ideas people?

[YelloRolla]

I have done a few conversions to forward facing using Nissan RB30 Throttle bodies. These are 53 mm or so (cant recall and cant be bothered going out to the shed to measure).

A 100mm throttle is overkill and would make smooth driving near impossible. The 210rwkw that my car made was with the stock 50mm T/B. I have personally seen 620 rwhp on a car with a 60mm T/B.

I have a fairly nicely manufactured intake manifold with the Nissan T/B all modded and ready to roll. Email if you're interested.