3T GTE Tech

[3jcelica]

Steeko,

Run in procedure sounds fine, get on the hills, get the engine loaded up and some decent revs, don't be too scared to give it a bit when under load i.e. hills etc. Make sure you are not using synthetic oil during run in, even the penrite run in oil is a bit slippery in my opinon, I generally go for the cheapest mineral oil I can find during run in.

Keen to know what your oil pressure is on cold start idle, and when warmed up. I don't think you will have any problems, just keen to compare against mine with similar specs. Note when I had the CT26 which uses the same lines as the CT20, on first start up my pressure went of the guage, subsequent starts where better resulting in 70-80 psi when cold (when reved cold I could get it off the guage), and dropping to 60psi when warmed.

Roger

[steeko]

cool, i didn't find out the exact pressures but they did say they were fine on cold and warm.

I guess i could find this info out for you once i get it home.
pick it up sarvo, Confirmed they'll flush it all after 1000km

[steeko]

got the car last night. Anyone else on here running the TA63 digital dash?
There is 'Turbo' written on the dash with a box underneath it, not sure if a light is supposed to come on there when the turbo is working ???

Also - the oil temp light is on all the time on the dash when cold or warm, is there a sensor that may be stuffed somewhere?

and - anyone know how to turn off the stupid 'Speed' light on the dash coming on when it hits 100kmh? so annoying.

[3jcelica]

steeko,

Sorry don't know anything about the ta63 dash, with regards to your oil pressure light, do you have an oil pressure guage? sounds like oil temp sensor is stuffed or wires are grounding somewhere
Roger

[WDE_BDY]

I think the speed light is a pink wire that you just cut at the ECU or at the dash cluster, turbo light comes on green I think when you have boost and red if you overboost. Not sure on the oil temp light.

Callum

[steeko]

no oil pressure guage yet, will add that soon when we do thermo fans.
I have an electronic boost guage but i think the turbo light on the dash mustn't be working.

Yeah sounds right about the oil pressure light maybe grounded as the wiring is a bit messy.

Also - there is like a large metal brace bolted to the floor with a hinged ply cover over the spare wheel, just wondering if this is a stock GT item? It looks all moulded and fitted specially for the celica hatch floor, wierd.

[toyo-al]

I know I posted this before, but I'm urgently in need of the coolant bypass hose. They are discontinued from Toyota and I can't find them anywhere.

Does anyone have a used one in usable condition or know where to get a new one from?

Here's a pic:


Also looking for the throttle cable brace that bolts to the top of the intake manifold if anyone has one? Thinking I'll have to make my own but though I'd ask anyway!

Cheers,
Al

[NME308]

I know I posted this before, but I'm urgently in need of the coolant bypass hose. They are discontinued from Toyota and I can't find them anywhere.

Cheers,
Al

I have no factory hoses on my cars these days due to modifications etc...

I simply draw a diagram with measurements plus inside/outside diameter and head down to Repco or supercheap and look through their hose collection. I have yet to fail in finding a hose with the right basic shape to cut down etc.


Cheers,
Jason

[TA22Celica]

Hi guys,

doing 3tgte conversion into my TA22 with w55 and 3tgte bell housing, just bought a AUTO ta22 tailshaft to mate the W55 to the T series Diff thinking and being informed that it would be the right length but its not it is about 50mm short.

does anyone know why this might be??, i havent bolted and welded the engine further forward or anything, does anyone else have any ideas??

Thanks,
Trent

[steeko]

FYI just filled up on rebuilt engine that's running 7PSI, I've been driving it pretty hard and it's only using 8.8L/100km

Pretty happy with that

[steeko]

FYI on water pumps.
The pump I am using is made by ACE (spelling? could be ASE, info was over the phone).

Part Number is 3308

It has a spout coming out of it for a heater hose or something which you'll need to machine off and cut a thread to bung it.

[RiceburnaGTV]

Hi guys,

doing 3tgte conversion into my TA22 with w55 and 3tgte bell housing, just bought a AUTO ta22 tailshaft to mate the W55 to the T series Diff thinking and being informed that it would be the right length but its not it is about 50mm short.

does anyone know why this might be??, i havent bolted and welded the engine further forward or anything, does anyone else have any ideas??

Thanks,
Trent

Not an auto one maybe?

[fade-e]

toyo-al: you can get a straight hose os same ID and witha heat gun or hair dryer, slowly heat the hose and bend it to desired shape and once it cools it should hold relatively well. As for the cable bracket, i am in the same boat so if you make something please let me know.

TA22Celica: When doing the conversion you need to move the gearbox mounts back 2". Hence your 50mm difference.

cheers

[NME308]

TA22Celica: When doing the conversion you need to move the gearbox mounts back 2". Hence your 50mm difference.

cheers

So do you then need a 50mm custom gearbox to block spacer and custom gearbox input shaft also 50mm longer as well?

OR

Are the engine mounts the OP is using possibly the wrong ones, hence why the gearbox crossmember is probably still in the factory location?? The T18 mounts on my 3TC were different positioning to the TA23 items...

Cheers,
Jason

[fade-e]

nah everything will align fine... its jsut the gearbox mount for a W is 50mm further back than a T

the engine mounts to use are the standard T series mounts on the stanrard T series cross member. DO NOT get the original 3TGTE mounts as it will make the engine sit too high and the bonnet wont close.

other than that, you will need to move the passenger side mount on the engine crossmember 2" further out (towards the guard) to allow room for the turbo feed line. this means that you will need to use the engine bracket from the 3TGTE motor on taht side. on the other side (driver side) you can sue the standard 2T/3T engine bracket. If you are going to use the 3TGTE driver side engine bracket, then you will need to move the cross member bracket out 2" as well.

other than that it should be all good.

cheers