3T GTE Tech

[adamke35]

hey guys, looking over the 3tgte tech forum it seems theres some tried and true methods, i bought a 3tgte with t50 in a ke36 wagon going into a ke35. i compression tested the motor on monday and got a reading of 115,120,120,120. this seems good to me whats your opinion?. My standard exhaust manifold is cracked through 1 and 4th runners, quite large around 3", instead of stick welding the cast im making a new exhaust manifold. i have heavy walled steam pipe at work, and i have just made the head flange. ive been reading about running 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together to merge into the collector. I have the option of getting a t2560 bb turbo from a mate for next to nothing so i'm thinknig of making a t3 flange to suit the garrett instead of a ct20. how would the flow rate in comparison to the ct20/26 and what size exhaust pipe should i use?, port height top to bottom is roughly 1", left to right is around 1 1/4". i have the option at work of 1" or 11/4" to make the manifold. any advice would be good as i start to make some progress, thanks adam

[1JZ-Rolla]

Hey adam, good plan, bin the factory manifold and forget about CT20/26 turbos, you'll be much happier with the Garrett. THough I think you'll find that a 2560 is a T2x flange, not T3.

Merits of merging particular runners has more relevance with a split-pulse turbo exhaust housing, in your case make the manifold runner order to suit the layout of your engine bay and turbo placement, and focus rather on a nice narrow angle for the runners to meet at the collector.

Either 1" or 1 1/4" steam pipe will be fine, in theory the 1" will keep gas velocities higher (potentially better response) and should also have the flow potential for anything the 2560 turbo can provide. Of course you'd have to do a bit more work transitioning to the smaller 1" pipe though from the ports in the head.

Cheers

[adamke35]

No worries and thanks. I got no idea where i got the t3 flange from. Its definately a t2x but. With respect to the manifold am i better off using the 1" pipe in theory of higher velocity and has anyone used 11/4" pipe with their manifold? I guess i could stretch the inch pipe to suit the square ports and diegrind it smooth. Has anyone had luck with ceramic coating and how much better will it help? What do you think the capabilities of the 2560 will be compared to a ct26? How does the compression sound on the motor?. As far as i know it is stock and i haven't done anything other than check the old manifold. This is likely to be a progressive project as im trying to finish off one car before starting on the next. I guess the more time i have now the better as i can improve the motor before i drop it in. Cheers and thanks adam.

[Cuts]

This is how i did my mani, was for a ST205 ct20b turbo. 1" runners.

[1JZ-Rolla]

don't worry too much about the compression figures themselves, its more about having a consistent reading across all 4 cylinders, for which yours looks pretty good. That said, for a cold/dry compression check, 120psi is about right, they are a very low static compression motor (7.8:1)

More people have used 1.25 inch pipe than 1.0, more for convenience though with matching to port size and collector i'd say. Me personally: I would use either without hesitation.

As for the flow potential of the 2560 turbo vs CT26, that will depend on the exact specs of the turbo. But expect with the modern design that it is likely to at least match the flow of the CT26, and have better response. Plus it is easier to plumb up water/oil fittings, physically smaller and lighter, and easier to replace with a host of other GT series turbos down the track should you desire....

Ceramic coating is never a bad thing. Will reduce under bonnet temps, and in theory promote better gas velocity yet again through not losing energy through heat loss through the manifold runners. Definitely consider it.

[pauljones1976]

Diz44zy,

I have Sard Injectors for my 2TGTE. River uses them in his 18RGTE too.

Mine are:
63500 (700cc)
Nissan - Pulsar Gti-R (SR20DET) - 700cc - Top, Low Impedance, 1 Hole, Pale Blue (Pic 1) Time 0.65msec


SARD 534cc Injector -63501
Top feed, low impedance, 1 hole. Lag time: 0.85msec

The 63501 will suit as it is a single hole injector and being a high current injector it has a good opening time (0.85msec) its a bit slower to open than the 700cc injectors but still quite respectable.

If your not chasing to big a Kw number then they would be a good choice.

Toyman, how well can you control the mixtures at idle with those 700cc injectors? Mine are incredibly difficult to tune lean and clean enough at idle - I blow way too much smoke at idle and the plugs foul after sitting at red lights too long....

[turbotoy]

Got mine on order will let you guys know how it goes. kameariUSA has them for $480 US

Interesting,, is $500 US tho:

http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePa...SIONER-Bro.jpg

[TheToyman75]

Paul,

My 2TG-TE Isn't in the car running yet but the Autronic SM4 has exceptional control of large injectors at light duty. River is actually using my injectors in his 18RGTEU with an SM4 as tuned by Dave at SAS and has no trouble at all.

The Microtec is more limited in what you can do to achieve a nice lean idle. What injectors are in yours ?

[turbotoy]

Running 700cc injectors. Would that not depend on what mode they where fired in. I had 550cc injectors in a batch fire configuration and could not get them to idle below 1.12ms before they would become erratic. I then switched to 720cc injectors but in a sequential set up. Absolutely no problems with idle and leaning them out as far as I want.
On the 2tg you could use the stock distributor for a home signal and run sequential. Just add a crank angle sensor.

Just my ramblings!!!!!

[3jcelica]

Hi,

Recently put on a new top mount turbo manifold, and found that the turbine inlet was going to foul with the top radiator hose/thermostat housing. The 3tgte housing points toward the passanger side which has always been awkard for the top radiator hose. I also want the top radiator inlet on the drivers side for better cooling requiring a 180deg bend.

I know the 2tg inlet fits and put the therostat outlet heading forward but has proven difficult to find one, I have seen people cut and shut the original but you still have a 28 year old thermostat housing after paying money/time for the mod. So I searched through catalogues and looked at engine pictures and finally found one that is perfect. Infact it would not supprise me if it was the same casting as the 2tg. Pic below with new thermostat housing (upper)

Housing is a humble 18r housing kilkenny casting W033 avaliable from any parts store I paid $28, certainly make the top radiator hose an easier proposition and help clear the turbine inlet.

Roger

[steeko]

Great info 3J, +rep for you. New casting FTW

[toyo-al]

You're a CHAMPION

hahaha! So it is 100%, direct fit? And doesn't foul on the thermostat, etc?

I'm going to get one today if this is the case

Also, can you give me dimensions/specs of this bolt that I've circled in the attached pic? Having a hard time figuring out what it's specs are to replace it...

[3jcelica]

Toyo-Al,

100% direct fit with bolts, and base is identical to the 3tgte.

bolt that you have circled is a M12x1.5 but you need a plug that has a flat surface for a brass washer, enzed or pirtek may have them, if not you may need to go speed flow or earls as it is a little unusal. If really really stuck I have a spare.



Roger

[toyo-al]

Could you get pics? I can't picture what you mean sorry...

Do you mean a section of the shaft without thread on it?

Also, what does this do?





Do I need it? Can I blank it off? And if I cannot, what does the breather hose connect to??

Cheers

[3jcelica]

Al,

What you have in that photo is a crank case breather and yes you need it, it needs to go either to the intake before the turbo (into the air filter) or to an oil catch can.

The bolt needs to be

M14 x 1.5 x 10-15mm long. All thread. The underside of the bolt head needs to be able to take a brass compression wahser like a banjo bolt. Will get some photos shortly.

Roger