3T GTE Tech

[1JZ-Rolla]

Many moons ago I ran the Hyundai style waste spark coilpacks on mine, fark the twinspark arrangement makes it cluttered, but still funny to have people ask if it was a "straight eight" etc

I'd mucked around a bit with switching off one set of spark plugs above a certain load/RPM also (via the ECU), but didn't really get much of a chance to quantify the difference.

The whole lot gets pretty pricey once you factor in all of the coils, leads, ignitor modules etc.




Cheers
Phil

[3jcelica]

For the tubo water feed my setup uses a 90 deg elbow with a water outlet. This connects between the water pump inlet and the bottom radiator pipe. The problem I have with this setup and a CT26 is the tubo outlet sits right and the back of the 90deg elbow and is an absoulte pain in the arse to attach a turbo inlet pipe.

Would not be such a problem if I could fit one and forget it but I have to pull the turbo restrictor out occassionally for scrutinering.

I noticed in Cuts photos a page or so back that he just has a radiator hose on bottom which may be a better option, Just wondering where his turbo water feed is now coming from?

Roger

[Cuts]

the feed came from the stock location (i took off the thermostat housing and drilled and tapped a hole for a hose tail)

I have a couple of pics on my computer of how the factory setup was and i tried to copy that, as mine was only an oil cooled one from the factory, its since been sold for a jzx100 chaser

[steeko]

3J celica, i am the new owner of Cuts TA63, it's currently at the mechanics getting rebuilt. When I get it back I can take pics of what you want unless Cuts can find his.

[Cuts]

I know where the pics are, just cause im at work i cant access them 2 post up

[3jcelica]

Yeah I though I was using the standard location, but the mine has an alloy elbow that is between the water pump and the bottom radiator hose with a outlet for the trubo, always assumed this was standard, but on page nine of this thread I see Cuts has no such elbow and a much clearer path to the turbo inlet

Roger

[Cuts]

Yours very well might be standard.

Like i said earlier mine is all custom because the turbo wasnt factory water cooled.

[Radar]

BRD claim that the secret to great power out of these motors is the rod/stroke ratio..
Just to clarify why a High rod/stoke is good:
Less side wall loading - Less friction - Tighter piston to bore clearance - Better cylinder sealing - Stays longer at TDC - Slows before BDC & TDC - Accelerates away from BDC & TDC (Shit for NA, fantastic for FI) - Allows a higher static compression or more boost because it lowers your dynamic compression - Stops piston rocking allowing a tighter squish area and smaller skirts so less piston weight...
There are more reasons why its a good thing I just cant think of them off the top of my head..
ANNYWHO
2TC = 4.850 / 2.755 = 1.75 (fairly ideal)
3TC/3TG = 4.850 / 3.070 = 1.57 (fairly shite)
There are 5.400" rods available but you'll be forced to shift the gudgeon pin up into the oil groove.
2TC = 5.400 / 2.755 = 1.96 (Farkin AWEOSME)
3TC/3TG = 5.400 / 3.070 = 1.75 (same as stock 2T)

IF you look at most race cars / F1 cars / motorbikes they are all REVVY as and all run a rod/stoke of over 2.0, some F1 cars run upto a 2.4 rod/stoke ratio to be able to reach 20,000+ RPM.
Anyways i'm done waffling now, Just wanted to know if anyone has experimented or can explain in detail a little better if its something worth doing?

[3jcelica]

Cuts,

I see says the blind man, pics of where your ended up would be great, I think the best approach may be top mount, I have been playing around with the idea of a new manifold (built the collector so far, but I don't work as fast as you) or flipping the existing manifold with a new sandwich plate which looks feasible.

Radar,

When I was young and folish I used to play around with escorts, many people would build there 2.0l pinto engines with nissan rods, these rods where longer and would allow a well built engine to rev to 9000 rpm. The reason they where able to get the revs up so high was they acctually reduced the piston force in as the approach TDC and BDC as you suggest. I haven't seen it much in toyotas in australia. Brining an engine closer to square (bore and stroke) has got to be a good thing doesn't it?

As you say BRD and other sell longer rods and pistons for the same price as standard length and forged pistons.

Roger

[Cuts]

I just based mine off this pic

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/pics/3tgteturbofeeds.jpg

but insted of having that elbow as the return i used an existing join in the radiator hose further down.

For the feed like i said i drilled and tapped into that spot where the feed comes from in that pic and put a hose tail onto it.

I have a couple of pics of the top ,but as i wasnt specifically taking pics of that its not exactly the focus of the shot

hope this is helpful

[Radar]

3jcelica - with 85mm slugs std and a 70mm stroke its major oversquare engine to begin with... The engine would need to be sleeved massively to be able to make it square.
Over square from what I can tell can make up for a smaller crank throw due to the larger surface area for the force to act on i.e. more torque! So 88mm slugs with the 1.6L crank should make equal or more torque than the 1.8L 78mm crank.

[steeko]

long story short.

I have the new ARP head bolts, gave them to mechanic. He ended up not using them and instead installed Toyota bolts. I've told him i really want the ARP bolts used as they are 'better' ??
And cost me about $200 to get them. The are better than the stock toyota bolts right?
I dont wanna replace the head gasket all of the time and felt that these bolts will help with that. I dont plan to run big boost or anything, but i'd like a bigger turbo one day.

Anyway his concern is that by millinig down where the bolts go in, will mean it doesn't have enough thread to torque down. Is this the case?

Ideally can anyone send me a high res pic of the image posted on page 10? I will print this out and show him how it looks. I'm really itching to get to drive this car but it's still collecting dust

[TheToyman75]

Either you misunderstood your mechanic or he is a moron !

The thread for your head bolts in in the depth of the block, milling the head down has no impact on the thread at all. The thread at the top of the stud is only ever held on by the amount of thread the nut is covering, so again, no issue as if you dont have the nut all the way on, your rocker cover wont fit.

And yes, head studs are better.

[steeko]

well i may have misunderstood as we were both in a mad rush, but I do know he had concerns about milling down those posts.

Will print out that pic as large as I can for him to see.

[YelloRolla]

Mad rush + engine assembly = dumbass mistakes. I wouldn't piss on the factory bolts, and your mechanic needs to lay off the spliffs for a while.