MA61 Rear strut bar (latch bar) specifications

[Negative Boost]

I'm looking at making my own strut bar based off the TSC bar made in the US. It doesn’t look that hard to make at all and i can do it at home. The only thing that I’m not too sure of is the Diameter and Wall thickness to use that would be best suited to do the job. I've seen 3 different designs and heard of varying levels of improvement by installing the 'latch bar'. So I would rather over engineer than under engineer to get the best.

These are the 3 that i have seen below:
Norbie's
RA65 Sleeka's
TSC

I think the best design of the 3 is the TSC one due to it being a 1 piece item and the simplest, that’s why I’m trying to make one like it. Norbie's is probably the strongest one there but correct me if I’m wrong, doesn’t look like the latches will be able to be re-installed.

So any suggestions as to what Diameter and Wall thickness to use would be greatly appreciated. And any other thoughts you may have.

Cheers
Sam

[ed]

1x length of 7/16" ID sprint car tie rod alloy shaft = $15 fom obrien
2x 7/16" male rod ends = $11ea from anywhere
2x 7/16" stainless bolts = $5
4x 7/16" nuts = $2

this is installed in the same position as all above, is adjustable, uses its own 7/16" bolts (NOT the small latch bolts) and looks sexy with the rod ends

no, you cant use the rear seat latch anymore though...

[Negative Boost]

Thanx ed, i forgot about that one. Pity you can't use the latches though, apart from that it seems like an awsome design that would work very well. Have you got any pics?

[Stefan]

Idea: Mount metal plate under seat latch bolts that extends out enough (towards rear of car) to install bar like above, but still use seat latches. Got a pic of that, Ed?

[ed]

pic tonight

[ed]

[Stefan]

Looks a lot like my front brace, ed, althought the guy I bought it from had threaded rod welded into the ends of the... rod, and female rod ends screw onto that. This one doesn't require welding.

Did you have to have the rod tapped to accept the ends?

[Stefan]

From RA65 Sleeks' thread:
==========
Ed:
and the tie rod stuff isnt prethreaded, you cut it to length, then youll need a tap

i can get pics of the rear bar if ppl really want them.

i mounted the rear bar inset from those two seat latch bolts. i drilled into that x-member piece, and mounted 7/16" fitting through that, supported on earch side by 2x BIG hi-ten washers to help distibute any pull-out loads

[Negative Boost]

Bump, anyone have any suggestions as to what would be an appropraite diameter and wall thickness?

I'm leaning towards a 1inch diameter and 2-2.5mm wall thickness. What do you guys think?

[bbaacchhyy]

Bump, anyone have any suggestions as to what would be an appropraite diameter and wall thickness?

I'm leaning towards a 1inch diameter and 2-2.5mm wall thickness. What do you guys think?

The best way to work out what is best is to look at the column buckling strength of whatever material that you are using.

One other option that I have seen that is similar to Norbs is a solid rectangular bar that is machined down at the ends.

Personally I like Ed's the best, as the bar he used will be quite strong, rod ends make for accurate adjustment, and it can be made without welding. With some minor mods, it can probably be made so that the seat latches can be used.

Cheers

Michael B

[Stefan]

I agree, and like I said, Ed's design could be made to work with the seat latches. I already have an idea. I'll be happy to have a go at fabbing something with you this weekend if you like.

I don't know where to buy lengths of tie rod in Hobart though, or where to get it tapped.

[ed]

to mount it using the latches, simply mount it on the flat reward facing surface on that cross member... like 2" back and rotated 90deg from where it currently is. should fit and work fine

cheers
ed

[Stefan]

Hmm... would have to drill through with thick bolts. Without looking there, I'm guessing the horizontal metal that the seat latch bolts screw into is thicker than the vertical faces of that crossmember.

[ed]

doubt it.

and if installed properly (with large supporting washers to prevent pull-out) it aint going to move (in shear)

[Negative Boost]

Fraid im working this saturday. Its next saturday i've got off... So i'd be happy to try and make one then. Also should be able to find somewhere to buy the tie rod, just ring around the metal shops, if they dont have it they should be able to tell you where to get it.