The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

GUN METAL,

Horses for courses I would say that the non ferous metal etch has way different chemical properties to what would be required for steel.

Best way to neautralize and acidic compound is soap and water, I use Sugar Soap.

The phosphorous coating is not coloured, and will not strip off with paint stripper, it is evedenced by a slight discolouration of the steel, almost a cloudy effect. The black would have been factory applied paint coat that all panels wear from manufacture, By a new panel and it will be painted in what is called chassis black.

Paper selection is where a lot of people go wrong, 80, 120, 240, are used for bulk paint removal, bulk filler removal, and initial shaping of filler, 320 to 600 is used for final filler sanding and sometimes used before a prime coat. 600 and 800 are used inbetween coats, 1200, and 1500 are used for heavy denibbing and light denibbing respectively. 2000 is used for initial colour sanding followed by 3000 before buffing.

In my experiece a thin coat of etch is required, and unfortunately I think you should remove all of that etch that you have applied, knock it all off with your 300, prep and paint again this time a couple of translucent coats only.

The exception to this is if the etch paint is a combined etch and primer, wthis can be applied in heavy coats after an initial dust coat.

Not really worth the risk of not getting it all off and starting again. Is the rest of the etch going to let go in 6 months? I for one would not trust it to stay stable.

cheers Chuck.

[Z2TT]

Hi,

I'm going to be doing a front bumper in Black, don't really want a show quality job but something good.
Only problem is the gun I'm using I can't find different size tips so i'm stuck with 0.7 which from what i've read is a bit of a nowhere size where as i'd need 0.9 or so for primer
or 0.5 for paint?

Any tips on adjusting my pressures and mixtures so I won't run into any problems?
I'm using Acrillic lacquer. The Adhesion remoter/primer I got is pre-thinned and got told it can be sprayed without thinning.

Then I got about 500ml of Acrillic Thinner and 1L of Black paint which I guess should be enough for a bumper.
Keeping in mind I got a 0.7mm tip only to use, what ratio should I mix it at?

How should I adjust my gun for spraying adhesion premoter and the paint?
I'm thinking just go light light coats so it does not run or pile up too quickly and wait 10-15 minutes between coat, maybe 4 coats max?

As for prepping the bumper just thinking sand it back with some 300, then 600 and work from there, texture of bumper is like a grit if you know what I mean one of those bumpers.

Thanks.

["Z" UTE]

2.0mm for primer and 1.2mm or 1.4mm for colour and clearcoat. Thin coats are a really good idea. 50%paint 50% thinners then add a bit more thinners if required to get good flowout. You may wish to buy some texture paint to go over any repairs, as a heavily sanded area will show through any paint as a really glossy area as opposed to the original finish. 35-45psi should be a good starting point. You may also wish to add some thinners to the "mixed" adhesion promoter, the only way to tell is a test panel.

cheers Chuck.

[kremsra28]

i just painted a bumper for my uncle a few weeks ago, it was a brand new 1 and was textured also, i just used a red scotch bright pad with some warm soapy water, it works a treat, it scuffs up the panel nicely without taking off much of the texture, it nicely gets into the texture!!

on another note, and i know its not spray painting, more of a panel beating trick i learned from watching a dvd that came with my shrinking disc, hope others can use it too as its very helpful.
i bought a palm nailer from supercheap, was around $20 on special, then i found some coach bolts from a building site i was working on at the time, ground down the some of the thread so it would fit inside the nailer, you can make the head different crowns and the shaft different lengths, i found it useful to stretch the weld area deep inside the rear 1/4 panel of my mrs ra28, i couldnt hold enough pressure on the dollie while i beat on it, so i put the palm nailer in there on a bit of an angle and the dollie on the outside, the head on the nailer had a med crown and used a low crown dollie, so it was a similiar effect of having the dollie on the inside and bashing on the outside.



the last pic is of a air chisel bit for comparison, im gonna make up a hammer head to go into my chisel, then make up a frame to use it as a planishing hammer, you can buy a kit but its far cheaper just to make it.
a couple of dvd's i have and cant reccomend enough is the 1 that came with my shrinking disc by John Kelly, he does a few shorts on you tube, well worth a look, and Body work restoration tutorial by David Gardiner, he also has some shorts on you tube. also try MetalMeet - for Metalshaping Enthusiasts & Professional Metalshapers for bodywork help, they are a great bunch of guys always willing to help.

again, i know this aint spray painting, but i thought if your gonna do some painting, there would most likely be panel beating involved also, hope it can help some of ya's out

krem

[nuk1ear]

On my MR2 behind the reverse lights theres a body panel which has been hammered back a little to fit later gen reverse lights. The problem is they clearly used a flat out metal hammer and knocked paint off. Hence its got a bit of surface rust around the area. Am i right in thinking this is what i need to do?
Sand back to the bare metal and make sure i go a few mm past the last bit of surface rust area to ensure theres none under the paint surrounding?
Then use an etch (which brand?) on the metal, couple of translucent coats.
Prime, sand prime until its flat. Then paint etc?

Im not sure were in melb i can get paint matched to my body colour (its not standard red, little darker) but i also have about 300ml of 2pac left in a can, can anyone match that to an acrylic?

Also, im planning to paint some heatshields with some heat resistant paint, how do i go about priming things like that? powder coating is another option but id rather do it myself (diy powder coating? I dont have an oven to spare tho lol)

Thanks~!

["Z" UTE]

nuk1ear, you are on the right track, just make sure you get all the visible rust off, then apply a rust converter. You will see the very small spots of rust react with the converter. You would never have seen them without a microscope. Watyll Killrust works a trea, available from Bunnings. If you are using acrylic paint, just buy some rattle cans of etch, primer, colour, and clear. it is such a small area loading and cleaning guns is just too much trouble. Some AutoBarn stores will mix paint into an aerosol can for you. You can use the factory colour and ask them the darken it up a bit, they can show you a couple of drops on a test sheet. With aerosol cans many light coats with drying time inbetween is way better than a couple of heavy coats. As with all painting patience and prep are the key to a good finish.

cheers Chuck.

[cheviotrola]

I'm never painting a car again, i'll do nearly everything else on a car but fuck painting in the bum

[wirysage]

I'm never painting a car again, i'll do nearly everything else on a car but fuck painting in the bum

I say leave it professionals or semi-professionals who at least have a proper booth. However, that does not include primer application.

[nuk1ear]

thanks for that chuck, other question, what about prepping heatshields? I gather its the same as any other metal, but do i need to use any special primer after the etch due to the heat?

Thanks again

[kremsra28]

ok, dont laugh guys,i know its not a toyota and its taking up the 28's spot in the shed,if ppl are offended i will take my post down, but anyways we decided to pimp up the mrs 94 mazda mpv a little, we bought it around 4yrs ago, had a few probs and was gonna offload it, but after spending a bit of moey on it, it has been running like a dream, we put new sump gasket in and done a timing belt kit, that stopped the oil leaks and a nasty rattle (the hydraulic tensioner was stuffed), but then when i jacked it up today i noticed that the bloody thing is leaking a little oil again ](*,) , will get right under it tomorrow to have a proper look but im hoping its not a rear main seal, im thinking i overtightened the sump gasket (it was a cork rubber thing)
anyways, work has been a little on the slow side, building industry sorta slowed up atm so with a few weeks off work we decided to give it a respray, the mrs has been disgusted in the color of the van since we bought it, infact when we 1st looked at it she stayed in the car, didnt wanna even look upclose to it, lol, so when we bought it we bought the mags and i tinted the windows, she has had her heart set on a nice blue since, but i dont think she realised how many there were, afetr a few days i think she has settled on Subie WR blue.
anyways, here are some pics of how it looked a few days ago before i started and as of the end of today, around 3days worth of hard yakka, another 10 to go #-o










so there ya have it, will post some more up in a few more days as work progresses, i would love to slap a 20b or something crazy in it, but its bloody expensive to run as it is, so the v6 will have to do for now, maybe when all the kids leave i could talk the boss round to making a drag van :twisted:

krem

[Z2TT]

Hi,

I'm going to be doing a front bumper in Black, don't really want a show quality job but something good.
Only problem is the gun I'm using I can't find different size tips so i'm stuck with 0.7 which from what i've read is a bit of a nowhere size where as i'd need 0.9 or so for primer
or 0.5 for paint?

Any tips on adjusting my pressures and mixtures so I won't run into any problems?
I'm using Acrillic lacquer. The Adhesion remoter/primer I got is pre-thinned and got told it can be sprayed without thinning.

Then I got about 500ml of Acrillic Thinner and 1L of Black paint which I guess should be enough for a bumper.
Keeping in mind I got a 0.7mm tip only to use, what ratio should I mix it at?

How should I adjust my gun for spraying adhesion premoter and the paint?
I'm thinking just go light light coats so it does not run or pile up too quickly and wait 10-15 minutes between coat, maybe 4 coats max?

As for prepping the bumper just thinking sand it back with some 300, then 600 and work from there, texture of bumper is like a grit if you know what I mean one of those bumpers.

Thanks.

2.0mm for primer and 1.2mm or 1.4mm for colour and clearcoat. Thin coats are a really good idea. 50%paint 50% thinners then add a bit more thinners if required to get good flowout. You may wish to buy some texture paint to go over any repairs, as a heavily sanded area will show through any paint as a really glossy area as opposed to the original finish. 35-45psi should be a good starting point. You may also wish to add some thinners to the "mixed" adhesion promoter, the only way to tell is a test panel.

cheers Chuck.

Hi,

The problem is I only have a 1.7mm Tip to work with, I cant get any different ones for this gun, would it be a problem or is there ways I can work around it by adjustments on the gun. Not looking for show quality paint job just want to avoid runs but not get a shitload of overspray either.

How many light coats of adhesion premoter / primer will do? 2 or 3?

Cheers.

["Z" UTE]

The 1.7mm tip will work for the primer, just needs to be thinned a bit more, it will also work for the colour/top coats,[B] you just have to adjust the mix, ie. a little less thinners in this case[/B]. Adjust your air pressure to below 35psi and try painting a test panel. Adhesion primer, 1 to 2 light coats. it is effectively the glue that joins the new paint to the existing, so no need to be ultra thick.

cheers Chuck.

[Cuzzo]

So I'm pretty close to the high fill stage for the body. A couple of questions.
2pak base coat is the final coat.
Should I high fill in a booth or in the temp garage booth is ok?
Is there anything before high fill I should be doing.
I believe I have the major high and low spots sorted with high fill to fill in the other parts.
Can I do the high fill in panel sections? Eg. Rear quarter then rear then other rear quarter?
High fill from a can or spray gun?

["Z" UTE]

Cuzzo, do not waste your time with Hi Fill spray cans they contain less than 20 paint, the rest is propellant and thinners lots of thinners to get the paint to flow out the tiny nozzle. You can spray high fill just about anywhere, as long as is not the 2pac variety. Yes you can do individual panels one at a time, this is all sandable paint, so colour consistency is not important. Treat any bare metal areas with etch before hi fill, or primer. After Hi Fill apply a mist coat of flat black guide coat wait the applicable drying time then get stuck into the panels with the longest widest sanding board you can lay your hands on. Any low spots will show as black, and you can give them another quick with Hi Fill, it is called spot priming. Guide coat that and sand again, when you are happy that there are no hi or low spots, it is time to get it in the booth for the final coat of primer and then the colour coats.

[Taff]

Can you guys give me an idea of whats going on here and maybe point me in the right direction to fix it?

What kind of paint would this be? Car was resprayed by a previous owner and i have no idea about paint.