The Spray Painting Thread

[JZA70R_92]

will need to check my air settings im actually using a suction feed gun which I used before and got a nice finsh...I think its set to 40psi hmmmmmmm. i had to bare metal the rear panel as in its past someone has used enamel paint..5 layers of primer, 3 coats of black but might need few more to make it more black!!

["Z" UTE]

Chuck, I put the white primer on the ol girl (again) on the weekend, only to still get some nasty bleed-through/fry up in a couple of small spots. A few of those spots are visible when the car is assembled too. I only have enough primer left to spot prime those areas, and coverage isn't too bad on the rest of the car. If I scuff back the affected areas to a nice feathered edge, and then apply an isolator, do you reckon that should be sufficient to give me a good base to prime onto? I am assuming that once I have a consistent primer coat, and don't sand through it when I hit it with 800 wet, that the colour spraying won't give me any frying grief?

I am hoping to have her colour again this weekend, but if I can't get the primer stable, I'll put off the colour until I do. All bolt on panels are good, it is just the body itself which is having fryup issues, but I want to paint it all in one hit to get even colour coverage. Will buy a 5ltr plastic bucket with lid and mix the colour into that and pour a gun full every time I run out.

Owen, yes a coast of isolator should work in this application. Just ensure the isolator is extremely well mixed 10 -15 minutes of mixing, then strain it though the dunces cap pot filter, and ensure you have a clean gun filter installed. The problem with not doing this, is that you will have to sand the isolator, and that is a definate no no. Wait the required flash off time, then apply your primer, that should fix those problem areas. Dont get to anxious about apply ing the new primer, take your time as the last thing you want to do here is get any runs. Guide coat the car and wet sand with 600-800 before applying your colour.

cheers Chuck.

[_gear2]

Does anyone have a store they recommend in sydney for automotive paint products - Ive done a mountain of reading but all the books and articles I have been reading do not talk about specific paint brands (they make a point of this) as they all recommend making 'friends' with your paint dealer. I know the colours and type of paint i want to use etc.

[stumpygt4]

arghhh sucky....painting my rear drivers 1/4 and roof and rear 1/4 is ok need more coat of paint but for some reason when I paint the roof the outer edges are ok but the middle is all dusty dry rough as guts looking why oh why!! Going to block back and add few more coats of black this arvo if possible. I need to drive the car so is it ok to say add another coat next week when im free?

Also ensure you have at least 1/3 overlap. If this is still an issue go to a 1/4 overlap and keep the gun at the same angle and distance from the roof. It will kill your arm by the end of it.

[Megz]

Does anyone have a store they recommend in sydney for automotive paint products - Ive done a mountain of reading but all the books and articles I have been reading do not talk about specific paint brands (they make a point of this) as they all recommend making 'friends' with your paint dealer. I know the colours and type of paint i want to use etc.

Depends where you are in Sydney. There is VG Autopaints, which is out at Girraween.

Cheers

Mick

[_gear2]

That is perfect need to head out to blacktown this weekend so its on the way cheers mick.

[o_man_ra23]

The isolator worked a treat, all blemishes rectified, and final sanding has begun. 800 wet should be plenty rough enough for the basecoat to stick to shouldn't it?

["Z" UTE]

Owen, 800 is ideal, this will give just enough key, and best of all give a great looking finish.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Well, we will find out when this fekin weather dries up!! This weekend is looking to be over 80% humidity, and the two weekends following will be unavailable for me to do any painting

The 800 isn't lasting too well with this Epoxy primer - that shit is harder than bone!! Will be a good protective layer above the softer ezy-sand 2k primer.

["Z" UTE]

Owen, if you are putting down another coat of primer, then you can use 320-360 wet, or you could long board it down with 240 dry. The next layer of primer will cover any scratch marks from the coarser paper. You just need to use the 600-800 as a finish sanding medium before colour coat.

My heart bleeds for the lack of suitable painting weather, 5 months of winter hibernation here in Canberra, where a paint gun never leaves the tool box.


cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, I used 320 wet between the sanding primer and epoxy primer. The 800 is from epoxy primer to colour. There will be no sanding between colour and clear, it will all be done in the 1 day.

You have just highlighted one of the reasons I won't be moving to Canberra while my arse points to the ground...

[oldcorollas]

question on acrylic topcoat colour..

how many layers? was thinking minimum 3.. maybe 4 or 5?

and for thinners, is it better to use acrylic thinner for all the topcoat layers? or just the last couple and use GP thinners for the lower coats??
if acrylic thinner is better for all layers, i'll need to grab another can tomorrow

[ToyTA22]

question on acrylic topcoat colour..

how many layers? was thinking minimum 3.. maybe 4 or 5?

and for thinners, is it better to use acrylic thinner for all the topcoat layers? or just the last couple and use GP thinners for the lower coats??
if acrylic thinner is better for all layers, i'll need to grab another can tomorrow

Hi oldcorollas
When I painted my TA22 roof and pillars I used a good grade of acrylic GP Thinners. I found before High Gloss/premium thinners can react with filler and paint underneath.
I did three thick wet colour coats then two good coats of clear with about 20% colour added to give clear some body.
I have not cut back or polished since painting and people commented last weekend how shiny it was.

All the best with your painting, keep trying you'll get there

[oldcorollas]

bugger.. i'd sort of decided not to use clear..... hmmmmmmmm
this is only a shitbox anyway

[ToyTA22]

bugger.. i'd sort of decided not to use clear..... hmmmmmmmm
this is only a shitbox anyway

You can get away without clear coat if you polish regularly. clear gives colour much better UV protection.
If car is only weekend run around and garaged/covered when not used, no clear shouldn't be a problem.
With colour only I would do four or five coats, you will take off most of last coat in cutting back and polishing. If using white or yellow as colour you need a base colour ie black or primer may show through, I learnt this the hard way