The Spray Painting Thread

[oldcorollas]

Olrollas, that workquip gun you have is identical to mine. I can tell you that the Superthief gun I bought for $40 (half price) is a better made gun, and sprays better. You will also find the lid on the cup will probably crack and break. But that will be a couple of years down the track.

yeah, i know it is shit, and can be retired to a putty gun.. but there are some obvious flaws that can be altered.. so maybe it could be made to work half decent?

I suppose i should have tried it out before dismantling



update:
right.... so the thread in the gun body for the trigger air valve assembly is bigger than it should be.. and the shit that looked like threadlock appears to be more like JBweld.. to hold the valve in.... not so good..

also the nylon seal supposed to seal the inside of the trigger air valve.. doesn't seal, perhaps because the alloy body doesn't have a nicely machine seat.. or perhaps not enough force squashing it in due to the differetn sized threads....

hmm, chinese junk methinks... BUT, a bit of teflon tape and now it doesn't leak as much

["Z" UTE]

well.. the primer and putty shit were all pre-filled in 4L cans, but to be honest, i didn't check if they had any 1L cans around...
I have the "1K etch primer - grey" and the "spray putty - pink"...
should i hassle them and change that for 1L 1K etch primer, and then get an acrylic primer, or their "premier primer" or something? flying a bit blind here but going by what they demonstrated...

Just use the 4litres of etch primer as primer, I am sure it will work out OK. Pity about that gun!

cheers Chuck.

[maccac__1590]

one quick little thing

im touching up the front stone gard / beaver panel on my rt142, so far i have primed it and sanded it back a few times, after the final color coat will i need a clear? im using acrylic

["Z" UTE]

one quick little thing

im touching up the front stone gard / beaver panel on my rt142, so far i have primed it and sanded it back a few times, after the final color coat will i need a clear? im using acrylic

Basecoat acrylic will require a clearcoat, as this will dry with a flat appearance. However a topcoat acrylic will have a gloss finish once applied.

cheers Chuck.

[maccac__1590]

mmmmm well i have no idea which one i got hahah, might have to call the place that mixed it up and find out what they mix

cheers

["Z" UTE]

mmmmm well i have no idea which one i got hahah, might have to call the place that mixed it up and find out what they mix

cheers

A simple solution for you, is to dip a paddle pop stick in the paint, and dribble the paint onto a smooth surface such as glass. When the paint is dry it should be a little shiny if it is gloss.. If the paint is a dull as, then it will be a basecoat paint.

cheers Chuck.

[Casey-G]

Does anyone know if i can spray acrylic over 2pk (removed clear coat) ?


my seca needs to look more... "ratty"

["Z" UTE]

Does anyone know if i can spray acrylic over 2pk (removed clear coat) ?


my seca needs to look more... "ratty"

Generally acrylic over sound 2pak would be ok, however if you have thin sanded edges, these will be an area that will be prone to frying.

cheers Chuck.

[Casey-G]

i would probably use a filler to build up bits that i take a little deeper so to say..


Im not going to clear coat the acrylic either, and its not UV protected i have sprayed it before with good results, mainly just curious to know what would cause it to peel off or crack if it's possible that that could happen.

[willwal98]

Hey guys, been picking up plenty of tips in the thread and have just painted the fuel tank for my bike. I really should cut back the clear and polish it to get rid of the orange peel but I only ride it to work and back so i'll probably never find the time.

Anyway, here it is. Paint is 2-pac blue with a yellow pearl, left over from my RA28 that was painted a few years back. Also did the lid of my laptop since I had a spare laying there and I mixed up a bit too much paint . Apologies for the phone pics.

[TurboRA28]

Hi all, i'm after some advice here..
I am repairing the roof on the coaster bus and there was some rusty areas along the guttering and seams which i wanted to give the por15 treatment.

So I cleaned it all up, marine clean, metal ready and then por15 over it.. The weather hates me and it rained while the por15 was drying.. It ended up with bubbles in the job.

Por15 people tell me it has to be sanded off and start again.. Now due to the nature of the rusty areas, guttering etc it is nearly impossible to sand it all back.

They have advised that I could put Tie coat over it and then another coat of por15 over the tie coat.

Does this sound ok?

At some stage I need to add some bog to smooth the areas out.. Originally I was confident that I put 2x coats of por15, then bog then 1x coat of por 15.. But now I assume it will be - my damaged por15 coat, tie coat, another coat of por15, bog? or another tie coat? then por15 over the bog.. ?

After this is all done I have some special heat barrier paint that is used on the roof of motorhomes etc.. This has it's own primer to use. So I assume after I put por15 over the bog, i'd need another tie coat before the barrier heat paint primer goes down?

It is brush on primer so can't do the dust coat like por15 say to do on the tacky por15 finish.

Just seems like a lot of tie coats needed?

["Z" UTE]

Hi all, i'm after some advice here..
I am repairing the roof on the coaster bus and there was some rusty areas along the guttering and seams which i wanted to give the por15 treatment.

So I cleaned it all up, marine clean, metal ready and then por15 over it.. The weather hates me and it rained while the por15 was drying.. It ended up with bubbles in the job.

Por15 people tell me it has to be sanded off and start again.. Now due to the nature of the rusty areas, guttering etc it is nearly impossible to sand it all back. They have advised that I could put Tie coat over it and then another coat of por15 over the tie coat.

Does this sound ok?

At some stage I need to add some bog to smooth the areas out.. Originally I was confident that I put 2x coats of por15, then bog then 1x coat of por 15.. But now I assume it will be - my damaged por15 coat, tie coat, another coat of por15, bog? or another tie coat? then por15 over the bog.. ?

After this is all done I have some special heat barrier paint that is used on the roof of motorhomes etc.. This has it's own primer to use. So I assume after I put por15 over the bog, i'd need another tie coat before the barrier heat paint primer goes down?

It is brush on primer so can't do the dust coat like por15 say to do on the tacky por15 finish.

Just seems like a lot of tie coats needed?

Rain gutters on any vehicle can be a real pain in the arse, get it wrong and the vehicle will rust away real quick. Buy yourself a couple of "Josco" abrasive impregnated plastic/wire wheels. Fit one to your electric drill and go nuts, this will remove 99.9% of the water affected Por15. Then start your process over as advised by the manufacturers of the products you are using.

cheers Chuck.

[wirysage]

Don't use the tie-coat I just used it and it was a pain in the arse the paint sinks into it. Buy yourself some acid 8# primer (you can buy it pretty much anywhere por-15 is sold) after the acid 8 is over the POR-15 put any high fill primer u want down.

[TurboRA28]

Damn that sux.. Stupid rain.

[o_man_ra23]

I just sanded the POR15 with 240 white paper, then 2k primer, then basecoat, then clear. It stuck good and proper, been a couple of months on that bit now, and no signs of issues. I was advised from the POR15 rep (and confirmed on their website) that after application, POR15 just needs a light sand and can be top coated with pretty much any type of paint you like.

Good luck mate.