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Thread: The Spray Painting Thread

  1. #16
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Oh, dont bother stripping the underside, just clean it thoroughly (as said by others), give it a light scratch up and paint over it. When doing a concourse type job, either dip it, or have it bead blasted.
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  2. #17
    advocate for the oldies Carport Converter ian's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    you can just rub gunwash on the under side and scuff it up with scotch brite, then wash off.
    the gun wash has a small reaction with the paint thats already there. and the primer bites in to it for good adhesion
    you need 2 guns as it is not just the tip thats different its the needle as well
    you can buy some good ones from ebay , i bought a suction feed gun that works great for primer , cost $50 new
    if you go the bare metal way thats when you find all the previous repairs and you have to do them all over again ,apart from the surface rust and peeling paint the lid does not seem to bad , from the photos anyway a gun with a 020 nozzle will be a good start
    ian
    Last edited by ian; 18-10-2007 at 12:47 PM.
    nostalgia is not what it used to be:

  3. #18
    is the bestest Conversion King LeeRoy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    As a few people have said, the first disc is quite harsh and as you have noticed will produce a fair chunk of heat pretty quick. I have used a similar disc on panels before but you cant do it for too long and need to watch out for the panel getting too hot or it will warp. However, it absolutely rips through paint and is probably the quickest thing for getting it off.

    Also as owen said you need to give the high fill a few feeks to fully cure or it ends up getting sink backs. Youll be able to see sanding lines under the colour but the outer surface is flat.

    As for getting under the bootlid, scotch brite is course enough to give the paint a rough enough finish for new paint to stick to. A good rule of thumb here is to sand with the scotch brite until the paint no longer has a shine. This doesnt take too long either, then after this give it blow with the air gun, wipe with prepsol, then paint.

    I'd also suggest breaking this thread up into a few sections but do it all in your top post, ie Stripping paint back, removing dents, applying filler, sanding, etc then just credit the person/people who provided the info and from what post # it came from.
    Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gte
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  4. #19
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic leso's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    im just buffing back my car atm...it's very rewarding at this stage. When i set out my goal was a average to good paint job, in the end i think i ended up with something a bit better than i expected. Sure there is a few tiny dints that are just visible, would say that the use of a guide coat over my primer/hifill probably could have eliminated these. I used a acrylic etch/hifill/primer in one...spot putty was handy to fill a few chips. Block the primer back using a soft block norton brand<<highly recommened...

    Three coats of paint (acrylic)...applied reasonably thick..then rubbed the whole car back with 800 grit. then applied two coats with a bit more thinners. Wait a couple of days (car in full sun)
    then start cutting it back..im doing mine by hand ...and thats where im at atm..

    btw i only used 1 gun...paid about $60 for it. It did the job...but if ya can afford it do what the guys have said.

    ohhh have i told you that it takes a long time...hahaha

  5. #20
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Tip for new players, dont paint with enamel unless your selling the car and want a quick shine... its poo. I would even suggest using a cheap iso free 2pak rather than the enamel... would produce a better result and be easier to do... but thats from my own bad experience, your more than welcome to make that mistake for yourself (just dont try selling me the car afterwards)
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  6. #21
    Hopefully soon a 5S-GTE Chief Engine Builder MWP's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    One thing ive now found... correct weather is the key for good backyard jobs!
    Too hot & too cold make a big difference to paint quality.

    You may have to wait a while, but do wait for a mid 20s dry day.

  7. #22
    umop apisdn Chief Engine Builder twentyEight's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    You can match the hardener to the temp... (ie. You use a fast hardener on a cold day, and a slow hardener on a hot day...)
    ([][][]II--LT--II[][][])


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  8. #23
    umop apisdn Chief Engine Builder twentyEight's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Stupid double post...
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  9. #24
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic scottsta22's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    I'm in the process at the moment of stripping and repainting my TA22, I'm using an orbital rorary sander to take off the paint with 80 grit, that won't harm the metal, if you have a really big compressoer, ie 4hp or more a dual action sander is excellent, but don't use one on a small household compressor, you'll burn the motor out, it will be too much for it.

  10. #25
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic leso's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    After much swearing,drinking,rubbing etc..............



    BTW a big thanks to all who offered their advice
    Last edited by leso; 18-10-2007 at 04:12 PM. Reason: more info

  11. #26
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Lookin good Leso
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

  12. #27
    advocate for the oldies Carport Converter ian's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    a lot of people dont realise that you can put 2 pac hardener in enamel to harden it fast , as enamel takes 12 hours to surface dry under normal applications , this is ideal for trailers, or under guards, even engine bays
    another thing to mention , make anti silicon drops your friend
    this eliminates what they call FISHEYES [little crators in the piant]
    ian
    nostalgia is not what it used to be:

  13. #28
    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    ill just add, use paint stripper, not sand paper or disc grinder. The metal is zinc coated out of the factory, it will come off with abrasion but not with chemicals. If you take it off you MUST put it back on (look for a 'metal ready' product, all it needs is zinc and phosphorous acid).
    Painting a ruff surface is a nightmare because you cant clean it properly, you definitely wont get it right the first time, in this case it means the whole thing will rust is a few yrs.
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  14. #29
    umop apisdn Chief Engine Builder twentyEight's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by ian
    another thing to mention , make anti silicon drops your friend
    this eliminates what they call FISHEYES [little crators in the piant]
    ian
    Definately, but no more than about 3 drops per 500ml of Clear though, as it affects the clarity and flash off...
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  15. #30
    My Wife says I have Too Much Toyota o_man_ra23's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Spray Painting Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Screamn_Sleeka
    ill just add, use paint stripper, not sand paper or disc grinder. The metal is zinc coated out of the factory, it will come off with abrasion but not with chemicals. If you take it off you MUST put it back on (look for a 'metal ready' product, all it needs is zinc and phosphorous acid).
    Painting a ruff surface is a nightmare because you cant clean it properly, you definitely wont get it right the first time, in this case it means the whole thing will rust is a few yrs.
    Not all cars are zinc coated (Galvanised is the term)

    It would be a good idea to galvanise a car if your doing a full bare metal respray though... might have to look at that for the 23
    Cheers, Owen
    1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
    Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
    Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.

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