The Spray Painting Thread

[twentyEight]

HiChem = Motospray... I wouldn't paint my dog house with it...

Akzo Nobel (Sikkens) make an ISO free hardener, as well as PPG and Glasurit.

[o_man_ra23]

Have you got product names for them Simon?? I couldn't find anything on the PPG site, amongst many other paint manufacturers (didn't check Glasurit or Sikkens) and couldn't find a single iso-free product other than the Hi Chem item. Although they are the same manufacturer that makes Motospray, is it indeed the same quality of product, or is the Hi Chem range a bit of a step up?? (remember that Kincrome make Chrome-Tech, which is up there with SuperWorks)

["Z" UTE]

Isn't it more the quantity of thinners required for acrylic primer the issue with rest time for primer?? I know with the 2k priming I have been doing lately, a small splash is plenty for filling, and 25% caused the coats to become too thin to cover, where acrylic I was struggling to keep the paint wet at anything less than 50% thinners.

Owen, read the manufacturers data sheet or even the paint can, the norm for 2pak is about 10% reducer, no wonder it was at the run stage with 25%. Have you purchased a half dozen mixing cups for yor 2pak mixing?, These cups have levels for paint, hardener, and thinners for various quantities of final mix.

With acrylic you can really get a lot of thinners into the mix to aid flow out and avoid dry spray, 50% sounds pretty spot on.

MWP, I described a method of final finishing of a paint job quite a few pages back. Just skip the sandpaper stage and go through the compounding and waxing stages. You can buy a realtively cheap ($60.00) buffing machine from most auto stores, just buy some decent pads from a paint supply shop. Generally takes me a full day to detail the factory paint on a car, and returns $350.00 $400.00 per car.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Chuck, the primer is also a filler, so the tin states use up to 20% thinner (when being used to give coverage - less for filling). Unfortunately the difference between 20% and 25% when mixing 150ml isn't much and is easy to pour just a tad too much in, which is what I did with the last batch. Yes I am using mixing cups, they are invaluable, and cheap. Measuring sticks have too many extra variables which make them annoying.

[MWP]

Protec 620 Barrcryl is a iso-free 2-pack safe for home use.
Ive got 4L of it here, but havent used it yet.
It was reasonably priced, and seemed easy enough to get.

[o_man_ra23]

Hmm... another example of uselessness in Mackay retail, local Protec dealer denied all existence of any Protec iso-free paints. Does Protec have both a primer and clear in the Barrcryl iso-free range??

[o_man_ra23]

Well... I put on too many layers of colour too quick, and have paid the price



I'll sand it back tomorrow and have another go.

["Z" UTE]

Mmm yes a little bit of a run. For small parts like that you probably have to have 3-4 cups of coffee with a light coat of paint between each coffee. You just have to take the time to allow the previous coat to flash off.

We all learn the hard way Owen, a mate of mine called one of my early attemps Niagra Falls!

cheers Chuck.

[pac]

carefully use a hairdryer or heatgun at a distance between coats its as good as an oven for small jobs in low temperatures

["Z" UTE]

Owen, if you have time, you could use the run as a very good practice area for colour sanding. Start with 800 wet, and move through 1500 and finally 2000. The result will be governed by the pigment in the paint, as some mix thoroughly, and others float to the surface. Would be interesting to see the result.

If you are clear coating skip the 1500 and 2000.

cheers Chuck.

[DrNick]

When I see a run starting to form, I back off on the trigger to stop the paint but I keep the air flow going from the gun. Many times this has helped by drying up the paint quickly before it gets more serious. I've saved myself from a few of the smaller runs that way as they end up completely invisible if you do another light coat over the top.

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, this one I put the paint on, then went and did a blast across the other side, then she all just started falling... so Dr Nick's method wouldn't have worked, as the run didn't show until after I had finished painting.

I'll give the wet sanding a whirl chuck and let you know how it goes.

[o_man_ra23]

quick question, now that I have managed to fix my farkup, would it be best to lay the clear on straight over the colour, or should I give it a light rub with 1200 wet first??

["Z" UTE]

quick question, now that I have managed to fix my farkup, would it be best to lay the clear on straight over the colour, or should I give it a light rub with 1200 wet first??

Hi Owen, if you are happy with the eveness of the paint after using the 800wet, just blow some clear on now. I have found that if the colour is too smooth, there is insufficient "key" for the clear, and it is likely to peel off a few years down the track.

cheers Chuck

[o_man_ra23]

Already dropped the clear on... Will post up photo soon.