The Spray Painting Thread

[1JZ-Rolla]

Imagine how much shit off the road is gonna become embedded in that grease after you've applied it to coilover sleeves! Can't imagine you'd be keen to wind them up & down with all the crap inbetween, or are you prepared to clean it all off, adjust, and then re-grease?

[SilverRA23]

Other solution for that is something like WD40. Needs regular reapplication but doesn't attract grit like grease does.

[1JZ-Rolla]

I used teflon based "Ezi Glide" on mine, but its only been months since applying, so can't vouch for the long term effectiveness.

Cheers
Phil

[VA61DETT]

I was using WD40 previously, however it all washed off during winter.
Hence rusty ugliness...
The grease will definitely get messy, but once I have got the height set-up I wont be fiddling too-much.
Till it gets out on the track

-A

[H1TMAN]

I just got myself a few goodies, One thing I really want to try is a Moisture filter.
When I painted the ambulance, water started to drip from the gun slightly.
Has anyone tried these? I was going to attatch it to the base of the gun and give it a whirl.

[joey]

Imagine how much shit off the road is gonna become embedded in that grease after you've applied it to coilover sleeves! Can't imagine you'd be keen to wind them up & down with all the crap inbetween, or are you prepared to clean it all off, adjust, and then re-grease?

You are correct. I had the same idea of greasing up the coilovers on my chaser after i had a hell of a time adjusting them for the first time.
Guy at the bolt shop highly reccomended some Lanolin based grease which was supposed to have excellent lubricating qualities and last ages. Sure enough i went to change the height about a month ago and the parts of the coil which i had greased up had turned black and had dust/stones throughout the threaded parts, was a pain to cleanup. So basically don't use grease as it will attract and hold all contaminats to it.
Interested to hear what other people reccomend.
Joey

[o_man_ra23]

WD40 will last about a day. A teflon based lubricant should work, or perhaps motorbike chain oil, as it resists flyoff while also being good at keeping dirt out, a lot of them are teflon based too.

[DrNick]

WD40 will last about a day. A teflon based lubricant should work, or perhaps motorbike chain oil, as it resists flyoff while also being good at keeping dirt out, a lot of them are teflon based too.

i think this is the best suggestion yet. i cant rememeber the brand , but the chain oil i used to use was some whitish synthetic stuff and it was brilliant, it never came off and didnt seem to get gummed up the way grease would. plus its not that hard to clean off and reapply, since they have this in mind when they make it. see what your local motorbike shop says about the idea.

[VA61DETT]

Thanks again ppl.

Will look into it.

-A

["Z" UTE]

I just got myself a few goodies, One thing I really want to try is a Moisture filter.
When I painted the ambulance, water started to drip from the gun slightly.
Has anyone tried these? I was going to attatch it to the base of the gun and give it a whirl.

Man, water dripping from the gun is not good, one drop of water into the paint film will stuff the paint job. At a minimum, you should have a filter drier attached to the base of the regulator. If you are running fixed lines, you will have a water drain at the lowest point of the system.

Number one compressor rule for the part time painter, when you shut the compressor down at the end of a work session, open the tank drain valve, and let the tank pressure blow the moisture out. On start up, let the compressor run for a couple of minutes before closing the tank drain valve.

If you have a humidity problem, consider placing a coil of air line into a 20 litre open top drum, connect that hose to your compressed air outlet off the compressor, and fit another filter dryer at the other end, to which you attch your airline to the gun. Fill the 20 litre drum with cold water, that will condense the moisture in the line, and the drier will then be able to pull it from the airstream. Best to get the moisture out of the air line well and truly before it reaches the gun. A gun mounted moisture filter would not hurt, as long as all the other bases are covered first.

Always consult your paint manufacturer for recommended humidity levels. You can buy a cheap "Hygrometer", which will read the humidity as a % of moisture in the air. Hang it in your paint shed, and refer to that and the thermometer before mixing your paint.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

That's a great suggestion RE the coil of hose Chuck. How long of a coil would you suggest using though??

[DrNick]

I'm moulding some fibreglass pods to the rear of my car, they wont be stuck there but I wanted to mould them so that they fit the contours of the car perfectly (they are currently wavy and up to 5mm gaps in places). I am just using normal K&H 2 part filler for this, I have put some masking tape on the car to stop it sticking onto the car, but it still makes a mess. Is there a better way of stopping the filler from sticking to the car when moulding things in place? For a second I was tempted to put a bit of oil/polish on the surface but I know that will cause me dramas later on when i am cleaning it up to a spray.

["Z" UTE]

Owen, I only ever use 9 metre lenghts of air hose, due to air pressure drop considerations. So on a normal day for spraying, a 9 metre length attached to the regulator, which is generally more than sufficient to paint a full size car. Another 9 metres coiled in the drum, on a humid day. Years ago I purchased a 10 metre length of copper tube, which is what I have in my water filled drum. The heat tranfer through the copper is more efficient.

Dr Nick, drop into your fibreglass supply store and purchase some PVA release agent. This is the stuff that is used by the pros to ensure the new product will come away cleanly from the mold. Be aware that the heat generated in the 2 pack catalyctic process may damage any underlying thick layers of paint.

cheers Chuck.

[jeffro ra28]

Re: coilover tube inhibitor. Try a drying type moly spray, some brands that come to mind are molykote and another one called molybond. Stops corrosion, doesnt wipe or wash of easily and lubricates the threads for use, is anti friction and as it is a dry film does not attract dust grit etc. I think the name of the molykote brand stuff is D321-R anti friction coating.

Just as a note as to succes of this stuff. Aircraft piston engines suffer greatly from internal corrosion and the gears etc will rust due to moisture. Some aviation engine overhaul shops apply this moly spray to the gears and shafts of the engine and they do not corrode where the spray has been applied and is still there after an engine life (around 1600 hours).

[H1TMAN]

Man, water dripping from the gun is not good, one drop of water into the paint film will stuff the paint job. At a minimum, you should have a filter drier attached to the base of the regulator. If you are running fixed lines, you will have a water drain at the lowest point of the system.

Number one compressor rule for the part time painter, when you shut the compressor down at the end of a work session, open the tank drain valve, and let the tank pressure blow the moisture out. On start up, let the compressor run for a couple of minutes before closing the tank drain valve.

If you have a humidity problem, consider placing a coil of air line into a 20 litre open top drum, connect that hose to your compressed air outlet off the compressor, and fit another filter dryer at the other end, to which you attch your airline to the gun. Fill the 20 litre drum with cold water, that will condense the moisture in the line, and the drier will then be able to pull it from the airstream. Best to get the moisture out of the air line well and truly before it reaches the gun. A gun mounted moisture filter would not hurt, as long as all the other bases are covered first.

Always consult your paint manufacturer for recommended humidity levels. You can buy a cheap "Hygrometer", which will read the humidity as a % of moisture in the air. Hang it in your paint shed, and refer to that and the thermometer before mixing your paint.

cheers Chuck.

Thats why I bought the regulator
Thanks for the advice! Great info