Tools required for engine re-build

[quiksilv]

Hi all,

I'm looking for a project for the summer and decided to find a 4AGZE, strip it down and do a full re-build and plonk it in an AE82.

Never undertaken this before but am keen to learn and the first hurdle will be acquiring the right tools for the job since I'm basically starting from scratch.

What tools can people suggest I will need for doing an engine re-build? I don't mind spending some money since im sure they will be a good investment!

[oldcorollas]

sockets... good 'uns....
torque wrench
piston ring expander (install on pistons) and compressor (slip piston into bore)
feeler gauge and other measuring tools (might be able to get shop to measure stuff for you)


patience

[fixeruperer]

10mm double hex tube socket, 10mm, 12mm 14mm 3/8 drive sockets and extention bars, rachet.
14mm 17mm 19mm 1/2drive sockets and extention bars, rachet.
12mm double hex tube 3/8drive with 3/8-1/2 drive converter for head bolts.
some plastigauge for bearing clearances.
small file for rings
and what oldcorollas said.

if its a smallport gze it might be eazier just to sell it to me

[quiksilv]

Thanks for the quick replies guys they are going on the list!

I will be looking for a smallport map gze with lsd box not sure if I should go straight to aftermarket ECU although I guess it depends on if the engine comes with the standard ECU or none at all.

[jezza323]

get good quality torque wrench, probably gonna need 2, a small one for stuff which needs little torque (ie oil pump) and the bigger model for stuff like headbolts

[LeeRoy]

Get one of those oil squirter cans so you can lube everything up when your putting it back together. Itll save your hands getting oily.

Probably get some zip lock bags for bolts and stuff too and you can label where everything goes so it will help you when putting it back together. Ive also used a showbox lid to hold cam caps and bolts before. Helps keep everything in order.

Youll also need the usual screwdrivers, a hammer, pliers etc to get hoses and some bolts off too. If you plan on rebuilding the head theres a good thread on how to do it and they mention a special snap on tool that helps remove and replace the valve stem collets. Oh, and a gear puller.

[oldcorollas]

hmm, why would you need a set of 3/8 and 1/2" drive sockets? why not all 1/2"?

oh.. for any serious bolts... ie, head (are they allen key head?) flywheel etc.. get a 6 point socket specially. will save anguish with stripped bolts. (same goes for exhaust adn others that have a tendency to get stuck))

[fixeruperer]

gze head bolts are 12 sided
and u cant use a 1/2" socket down the head to get to the bolts its too tight

[oldcorollas]

ahhh, gotcha

[skiddz]

gze head bolts are 12 sided
and u cant use a 1/2" socket down the head to get to the bolts its too tight

they are a 10mm torx (sp?) head

[LeeRoy]

...and u cant use a 1/2" socket down the head to get to the bolts its too tight

Untrue. You need a double hex deep socket. I had to buy one (Token was the brand) and it was for a 1/2" drive socket set. It also worked in removing and replacing the headbolts. I do agree that it is a tight fit though.

Really once you have the basic mechanic tools, any specialised tools and what nots are probably better off being bought when needed rather than buying everything only to find you dont need half of it. Especially since your doing this yourself, im sure a 30min return trip to your local tool supplier will not be considered a waste of time when your rebuild i would guess will take a few weeks.

[EldarO]

as stated, get basic tools, socket set (got my kinchrome set for $230 or some shit, abused it well and its still brand spankin) and a set of spanners (i use $1 jobbies, best spanners in the world, bunnings spec FTW)

anything else you need either adapt from what you have (bend spanners, thats why cheap ones rule) or buy (usually under $25 for a good quality bit/driver )

[jezza323]

also dont forget to get a manual outlining the engine you want to build, that way you know the process, and all the torque settings for every bolt in there

[allencr]

Don't buy cheap and don't buy expensive over priced pro stuff, something in between has become pretty common nowadays no matter where you're at. 3/8 drive sets are necessary, with some flex-sockets and deep 6& 12 point along with it, 1/4 less so, while 1/2 stuff should be purchased as you need it. Get a breaker-bar/flex-handle and a few sockets for lug nuts, crankpully & flywheel bolts and a short extension. The 1/2 ratchet & socket set $$ can be much better spent elsewhere and won't collect dust, unless you're going to work on diesels & Detroit cast iron!
You can't have too many Phillips tip screwdrivers, as their standards seem to be all over the place and you never know what'll fit best!!!


Anyone wanting to do this usually has some years of experience and an accumulation of tools from working on bicycles, lawn mowers, motor cycles, electric motors, pumps, fans, household stuff, plumbing, electrical, minor car repairs and others. They've learned by trial & error, watching & working with others more experienced, looked at every automotive & machinery book in their junior & high school library, trade/tech/militaryschool, on the job and apprenticeship programs, since they were 10 years old.
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Being a huge ass-whole yet again, I believe that if you have to ask this kind of question and/or you don't have the basic tools, then you definitely don't have the capability!

Good luck!

[oldcorollas]

i disagree with the 3/8 socket thing (just my personal preference)
and yes, no need for snap-on sidchrome/etc is a good medium....

i reckon that 1/4" is perfect for anything 10mm and below.. reason being that you shouldn't be putting a lot of force on them, and a 3/8" ratchet allows you to.

for 1/2", it goes from 10, so if you have a stubborn 10, still ok ... and you can smack a good 1/2" drive set with hammers all day with no fear (mmm sliding T breaker bar, impact sockets.. and sledgehammer )

that said, i'm about to pick up a 3/8" set.. just cos it comes in a handy travel case

anyway, the cost difference for a metric 1/4 and 1/2" combination set is not much more than a full 3/8" set... and 1/4" is handy.... (immho)

edit:, oh, and Repco spanners are actually quite good! the smooth surface makes them easy to use.. and they pass my hammer test... often...