Twin plate clutch - dramas

[takai]

Yes thats right.
But after hard driving, you are agitating seals etc, and they may leak air.
Not necessary fluid from a join.
Mine was nice and firm when I bled it, then went for a nice drive, and I lost total clutch.
Mind you this was after a short squirt, maybe 5mins of driving.
Double check you got the right fluid...
Maybe try a different Master if you know of someone with a spare...

But if its leaked air in its not going to leak it back out, the air will rise to the highest point in the system. i.e. the MC.

[allencr]

Wow, that pull-to-push converter is a real piece of work! No flex there, but sure can't say the same for friction!
What it does have is a new return spring that will push the slave's pushrod & piston to the bottom of the cylinder, unlike the previous setup. This means you've got another place to adjust 'freeplay' in addition to the MC's pushrod, except this one is more important! It NEEDS freeplay, about .25-.5mm minimum IMO, to keep continous pressure off the release & crank thrust bearing. It will also have to be checked & adjusted periodically, because as the clutch wears it will close up to zero.

He said 'firm' in the first post!! That means 'no spongyness/no air' to me, and it doesn't matter if it leaked 1L per day, as long as it isn't spongy from air getting in, the clutch will be operating perfectly in that respect.

I thought the original problem described was that the clutch didn't disengage when hot.
The hydraulics & release bearing stuff will not change, or just barely change, with heat. Only the disk/s or maybe the floater between them could heat up enough to warp and cause enough clutch drag to give the impression that it wouldn't disengage.

Good luck!

[98SZR]

Update? Did you get this sorted?

[MR 1JZ]

clutch has to come out
suspect flywheel and or pressure plate might be warped

[Joshstix]

A more common cause would be the friction plates being bent from having a gearbox hang off the end with only the input shaft supporting it.

[MR 1JZ]

I did think of that josh but its highly unlikely...no amatuers installed this clutch on either car its been in

[spiller]

Only the disk/s or maybe the floater between them could heat up enough to warp and cause enough clutch drag to give the impression that it wouldn't disengage.

this is the point we have come to and what we suspect to be the problem now...particularly because i did not machine the flywheel or the floaters before installing the clutch (and there were quite a lot of hot spots). so yeah, time to pull the gearbox off and get it machined up nicely and fingers crossed this will be the end to this saga.

ive heard of plenty of people fitting un machined used twin plates without an issue in sight...i guess i lucked out

does anyone know if you can actually machine the floaters?

[jfallen]

you bought a twinplate clutch and didn't get a billit flywheel as part of the package?? I take it you bought it second hand?

money poorly spent.

Just installed a brand new ORC twinplate in the CA18 powered TA22, couldn't be happier. If you're going to the expence of fitting a big $$ clutch don't pike out half way. Fitting a clutch any clutch I'd go to the trouble of having the flywheel machined just to be sure. If buying a clutch second hand I'd defenitally bother to have a very long hard inspection.

Jordan

[wilbo666]

you bought a twinplate clutch and didn't get a billit flywheel as part of the package?? I take it you bought it second hand?

He got the fancy flywheel with it...no way it will work without it!

The problem that you will run into when you machine the flywheel is that you won't have any preload! (there will be too much room), you might have to skim the flywheel where the cage mounts, or skim the cage...

I wouldn't machine the floaters, if they are slightly out of shape I've seem them made good by use of a press and some correct size rings (Jim Berry) ...I think the floaters are only a few $ hundred for the pair new...

Cheers
Wilbo

[dori dori]

Time for some OS Giken Australia input:

Pull the clutch off the engine.

Measure the friction discs (should be 4 - 4.5mm thick) This is new. Its obvious if its munted!

Put a straight edge over the centre plate, pressure plate (this is seperate from the pressed steel cover plate)

put a straight edge over the flywheel (that means removing the cage or housing)

If the centre plate and pressure plate are ok and the discs are still in good health, machine the flywheel and ALSO machine down the same amount off the cage (when it bolts to the flywheel) so as to keep everything within spec.

If the discs are rooted or you want an AS NEW clutch call me for a rebuild kit.

Cheers ya'll

Grant

[BlackSupra]

I had similar issues with mine for a while. I had snapped the pivot point mount (top left in that picture posted on first page). Had it replaced with solid piece of billet. This meant that the whole convertor mechanism was flexing when the pedal was being depressed and the clutch wasnt disengaging properly



But at the same time i also had a leaking slave. Had to have it resleeved. This just compounded the problem!

Have someone hold the fork off the slave and check to see how much the slave moves when the pedal is depressed. Then check to see if it moves the same with the fork pressing on the slave rod.

[allencr]

The centre/center/floater plate/s in any multi-disk have tabs/tangs/notches on their outer edge that accurately(close tolerance) position them for balance(not a symptom here?), are strong because they've got some power handle, and are smooth so they'll slide well & will let both driven disks engage and disengage smoothly without any hangups.


I'm clueless about what an OS Giken is or its design!

Some of this stuff just can't be ripped out of one car and just slapped into another by a parts changer.

[spiller]

yes the centre floaters do have those tabs that you are talking about which "lock" them into the cage, i guess this is part and parcel with any multiplate clutch design? i didnt quite get the rest of your post, the grammar was hard to follow!??

[MZ20]

Hello,

I was just reading though your thread and it is the same problem I had with my lancer GSR when I put a 3200lb pessure plate and 6 puck clutch in it.

The way that I look at your problem is that when you push the clutch pedal in you are not getting enoughforward movement on the throwout bearing. The general rule to fix this is with shims under the pivotball. II have not worked on your type of gearbox so without some more photos of the clutch fork system I can say how you are going to get the extra movement

The other common problem is a bent clutch fork --- with all the extra force of a aftermarket twinplate clutch, it could have bent, thus not giving you the extra movement of the throwout bearing.

Next common problem is the throwout bearing, IS IT THE RIGHT ONE FOR THE CLUTCH. I have seen clutch kits that require a smaller or bigger throwout bearing. check for wear on the back or fork mounting positions.

The hydrolic system can be at fault but it doesnt seem to be in this case.

I do not believe that you have a faulty clutch. The low fiction point of the clutch is an indication that the clutch fork is not getting enough travel.

Anyhow --- if you need more help, pictures are the key !!!

Glen

[BlackSupra]

Next common problem is the throwout bearing, IS IT THE RIGHT ONE FOR THE CLUTCH. I have seen clutch kits that require a smaller or bigger throwout bearing. check for wear on the back or fork mounting positions.

This is a very good point, did you get the bearing carrier with the clutch? It's a custom carrier that is model/clutch specific for the right height.

If you are using your normal carrier then the clutch wont have enough travel.

+ rep Mz20.