Twin plate clutch - dramas

[MR 1JZ]

I see...so when should it be hard up against the throwout? half pedal?

[takai]

Depends on how you like your clutch. The race car sits about 2-3mm off the thowout fingers, and is resting on them at the lightest touch of the pedal. Its friction point is within an inch of the initial travel section.
I.e. good for changing quickly, but crap for taking off. Hence why i tend to bag it up more on the grid.

[MR 1JZ]

hmmm ok...looks like I might have to get dirty and have a look at it tonight

[takai]

Haha, yeah, you do have to get dirty eventually....

[MR 1JZ]

no i dont...someone is taking a look at it friday...i probably would have done it tomorrow but i forgot im leaving for our toyotafest roadtrip tomorrow morning

[wilbo666]

Did you put thread sealant on the bolts that secure the flywheel to the crank? The flywheel bolts...when you installed the new flywheel to suit the twin plate

Cheers
Wilbo

[MR 1JZ]

yes that was done

[Talasas]

Do you have a pic of the clutch installed on the flywheel?

Sometimes the actual clutch disc is too thick for the clutch, it's happened to me before, wouldn't disengage gears. The springs flatten out too much. I ended up using the clutch disc with the old pressure plate for a year and then changing over the new pressure plate once it had worn down a bit. Worked fine. Alternatively you can get a little machined out from the pressure plate disc if it allows it.

[MR 1JZ]

second hand clutch that came out of a working car that I went for a ride in

the clutch is fine

[spiller]

See how much freeplay there is in the clutch actuation mechanism. You should be able to see when the carrier bearing touches the throwout fingers through the inspection hole.

if we are thinking in reverse here, upon release of the pedal, the carrier bearing releases from the throwout fingers when the pedal lifts 2-3mm off the floor (i.e. the firction point is fucking low....too low). this is what i recognised as being the inital problem, but somewhere along the way i totally fucked the adjustment which leaves me where i am now.

alas, it is being looked at this friday so hopefully they will be able to sort the issue. ideally i dont want any pedal freeplay and would like that friction point to be about half way between the total pedal travel.

[spiller]

EDIT: double post

[lucifer d]

Check master cylinder for bubbles when pushing your foot on the clutch.
Mine went last week, and was only 12 months old.
Seems that running Dot 4 fluid in it ate the seals.
Check if your cap says dot 3 only, as mine does.

Sounds like air in the lines, I lost my clutch after a bleed, then 5 minutes of spirited driving.

[spiller]

if it were air in the system though, wouldnt the pedal feel squishy? pedal still feels as firm as pamela lee's tits

[98SZR]

if it were air in the system though, wouldnt the pedal feel squishy? pedal still feels as firm as pamela lee's tits

haha! lol! Yes that's a good sign that it's not a leak or any air in the system.

[lucifer d]

Yes thats right.
But after hard driving, you are agitating seals etc, and they may leak air.
Not necessary fluid from a join.
Mine was nice and firm when I bled it, then went for a nice drive, and I lost total clutch.
Mind you this was after a short squirt, maybe 5mins of driving.
Double check you got the right fluid...
Maybe try a different Master if you know of someone with a spare...