Twin plate clutch - dramas

[takai]

Oh that makes it even more wacked. Ive never seen a pull to push converter before. Got pics?

[MR 1JZ]

i got no pics

ill see what i can dredge up on the intarwebs

oi seriously...if someone can come round and fix this for us they will be paid in beverages...decent amount too

im lookin your way porter

[takai]

Heh, im interstate around ToyoFest, hence no come over. Maybe mid October...

[MR 1JZ]

hmmm shit...ok cheers anyway

[spiller]

farrrrk this is killing me...car sitting on jack stands haha. as above, if there is ANYONE in SA who might know how to get this right, your help will be rewarded accordingly. called regular clutch places and they dont want to hear about it, supposedly everyone else in adelaide is unavailable for the next two weeks :S

re: pull to push converter...

[fixeruperer]

so you have a small amount of free travel on the pedal and a small amount of free travel on the slave cylinder, have you had someone else under it while you try engage clutch, if its a "kit" does the "fork" have enuff movement sometimes you have to modify the pivot.

i hope thats not rubber grease on your spigot

[takai]

Hm, that just looks ugly, but i think i can figure out how it works. Which is pretty simple, its just a leverage device. Best thing to do is to get a few torches out and look through the inspection window (big thing) and take photos of it with the clutch pedal depressed, at engagement point, half pressed,and fully out. That will help to show how much its moving. From what i can see though, that setup actually REDUCES the throw advantage. Which may be why screwing the adjustment stop all the way in and out does nothing.

[spiller]

i can sort of follow what you guys are talkiung about here but i can honestly say i do not have enough experience with clutches to be able to adjust this correctly...i think its time to take it to an expert.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Have you bled the hydraulic system?

Edit: My bad, you have. You may have to back the pedal end right off before you set the slave rod length.
If the pedal is wound too far in, the piston in the master might not be allowing the fluid to flow back into the reservoir when the pedal is released.

[98SZR]

Hm, that just looks ugly, but i think i can figure out how it works. Which is pretty simple, its just a leverage device. Best thing to do is to get a few torches out and look through the inspection window (big thing) and take photos of it with the clutch pedal depressed, at engagement point, half pressed,and fully out. That will help to show how much its moving. From what i can see though, that setup actually REDUCES the throw advantage. Which may be why screwing the adjustment stop all the way in and out does nothing.

Yes this is a good idea.
I think it may have something to do with the pull - push kit, the slave cylinder/rod may be buggered and not giving enough pressure to push the assembly forward, or even could be the spring that pushes the clutch assembly foward, so taking some pics would help a lot. Also hopefully the clutch guys did a proper job in the first place and used some moly grease so the thing moves easier!

Also the main reason I posted that link as it has other clutch resources and also you said the mechanic adjusted your clutch pedal which may of put it way off, probably not the cause of this problem though by the sounds of it.

[dori dori]

Have you checked that the slave and master cylinders are no buggered?

My master cylinder went one night which left me with the same symptons you have mentioned. Once fixed my slave cylinder went the following week. Both were cheap and easy to fix by a clutch/brake place. Remember the pressure plate of an OS clutch is far greater than a factory clutch.

Just my 11cents

[MR 1JZ]

Slave came with the clutch...as spillers was farked so that was all working fine in that car...havent checked the master yet...what should we be looking for?

Leaks I guess?

[98SZR]

Slave came with the clutch...as spillers was farked so that was all working fine in that car...havent checked the master yet...what should we be looking for?

Leaks I guess?

Well if your pretty sure the slave is fine and there is no leaks around it, I'd be looking at the master cylinder next, yes look for a external seal leak. Get someone to push the clutch in while someone looks at the reservoir, see if it rises or drops.

Also how much resistance does that clutch have? Does it travel to the floor fairly easy? One thing I don't think that has been mentioned either is have you tried pushing the clutch fork with a screwdriver or similar to see if it moves? Just trying no narrow down things so hopefully you don't have to pull the gearbox out or pay someone else to do it! - I would help if I didn't live so far away

[MR 1JZ]

the clutch fork moves and it looks like it moves fine...even when the clutch pedal is depressed...it just might be a few mm off...

fuck i dont know...im hurting my brain trying to get my head around it

[takai]

See how much freeplay there is in the clutch actuation mechanism. You should be able to see when the carrier bearing touches the throwout fingers through the inspection hole.