Turbo matching to engine

[cambelt]

The ct20 from the 2 j i think will be fine . With a 11.5 CR motor with forced induction you wont be able push it to hard anyway so wouldnt a slightly smaller turbo work well .
Dave

[LeeRoy]

Yes the smaller turbo would work well but it would also max out its efficiency at a low rpm and then beyond that not only shorten the life of the turbo but also increase the heat - ie lower its efficiency. Ideally a turbo that dies off slightly before redline would be the best option keeping in mind newer turbos will also provide greater efficiency throughout the rev range wheras older ones will not only have wear but also not provide the best possible results.

[The Real Roadrunner]

GT2554R - 471171- 3 - http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_471171_3.htm

The above would be my choice.

Cambelt1: your kidding yourself if you think a ct20 off a supra will do the job as you wont be able to keep the boost below about 20psi. How do i know? cause i have tried it on a 4efte and this is exactly what it did.

Cheers,
Linden

[Suprathai]

So with the CT20a on your 4efte you could maintain the boost below 20psi?? Yikes, no chance on the 2zzge that revs to 8250rpm. But If I do slap a turbo on then I'll rev cut the thing at 8000rpm, drop the high cam engagement point to about 5700rpm and should be all good.

The problem with these motors is trying to change gears right at the cut 8200rpm to make sure you stay in high cam mode (aka 'Lift'), and because of that crunching 2nd gear happens everynow and then. With the Power FC you can extend your cut up to 8400rpm (from 8250rpm) but decrease your lift engagement point to 5750rpm (from 6000rpm), which will give a slightly wider power band which makes landing it in lift much easier. Forget about piggybacks cause the factory ECU can over ride the setting if you set it up too aggressive, and if you don't set it up aggressively enough then its kinda a waste of money. Additionally the only aftermarket piggyback then can change the liftpoint requires two models which work out to be more expensive then a complete standalone.



Now if you bolt a turbo on you don't have to worry so much about changing gears at the redline all the time.

[Draven]

GT25-10 ftw. would spool up nice and early, and since you'll only be after <7 psi, it won't (probably) run out of huff up top.

[Suprathai]

Where would I be able to get a GT25/10 from?? Additionally if I was to source a T25 off the nissan cars which one should I be chasing after??

I think the nissan GTR's had twin T25, as well as the 300zx, CA18DET and early model Sr20DET engines.

But if I'm not wrong the CT20 turbos came in so many different varients, from the small CT20A to the larger single turbo off the vvti 1jz's. 3SGTE's came with both CT20 turbos as well as CT26.....getting confusing if you ask me.

I'm trying to source a 2nd hand turbo if possible, cause the cost of the new one is quite exxy

[The Real Roadrunner]

if you dont want a new turbo, go for 1 off an s14a as they will give you the flow numbers you require and youll be able to keep the boost fairly low with high airflow numbers.

cheers
linden

[roadsailing]

don;t toyota do a supercharger kit for that enigne? if you want grunt thats the way to go, no exhaust work needed either.

[Suprathai]

The TRD S/C kit is only available for the 1zzfe...which would produce similiar power to a stock 2zzge, but the torque would be a nice welcome though.

[cambelt]

So a CT9 from a 4EFTE outflows a CT 20 A of a 2 J , the CT20 is sure as hell much bigger .
Dave

[The Real Roadrunner]

ever seen what happens when you put a big exhaust on a 2j? boost spike central.
problem is in the exhaust housings, you would think something meant for a 1.5l would cope on a 1.3 but i can show you dyno sheets that prove otherwise.
if it wont cope on 1.3l revving to 6500 how is it going to cope on a 1.8l revving to 8000.

the ct20 does comp side does flow enough air for the engine but the exhaust side wont.

cheers
linden

[Suprathai]

At this stage I suppose a t25 would be a nice selection. I'll try to take photos today of my engine bay and let you guys see the amount of room I will be working with

[6BOOST]

You have a relatively new vehicle, with good quality modifications, and your talking about using second hand turbochargers from various engines to achieve a half decent result. While I'm not all fussed on brand names and so forth, the turbocharger is the 1 single component you need in this setup that has to be reliable and responsive, and my vote is also for the garrett ball bearing unit.

The garretts can be purchased for low $1300's, brand new, with 6 months warranty, and their long term durability is well proven being factory fitment, I personally would go for the bigger 320hp version, you have 11.5:1 compression, a small turbo will choke the exhaust flow and increase the onset of detonation. You also have an 8k redline, even if it made full boost at 4000rpm, it will still feel responsive, and 4000rpm of powerband is actually very very usable and would feel great to drive. The second thing being a bigger turbo will have lower outlet temps and make more power on your low boost while putting less stress on the engine.

Don't even think about not intercooling this thing, and another thing, I'm pretty sure you can log injector duty cycle on your Power FC handset, go give you car a hard time and see what it goes to under full power at about 6000rpm, if its tsill in the 70's, even high 70's, then I'd say with an adjustable fuel pressure reg, you stock injectors will cope nicely. Might want to upgrade to a walbro intank pump though.

6BOOST

[Suprathai]

Love the response from ya 6boost, just what I needed. Intercooling is definite unless I want my engine to die soon. lol

I was thinking of going a something slightly larger to help reduce the inlet temps etc, but no one mentioned it so far so I didn't think it mattered that much. Currently the injectors on the car are 315cc, I will be looking at upgrading to something a bit larger maybe looking at 660cc injectors and the fuel pumps needs looking into as well.

There is a turbo sportivo running around sydney, but his goal is different to mine (i.e. I have a smaller budget). He went the whole way, rebuilt the engine (sleeved block, forged rods and pistons, balanced crank), baffled sump, valve, valve springs, cams, LSD the works really to be honest.

Photos up soon!!

[Andrew162]

as twentyEight said on the previous page, the CT20b from the ST205 is what I'd be going for personally, but trying to find one that's still in good nick is like finding a needle in a haystack. these turbos boost right off the mark, but due to the flow limitations of this one, it's a bit of a waste if you're gonna be doing constant ~8k rpm shifts as the usable rpm's on the CT20b die off at around 4500-5000. if they need to be rebuilt, then it's not even a consideration as most people who rebuild them will say it's not worth it because it's a ceramic unit, and instead grab a CT26 off an ST185 and be done with it. either that or the link that RoadRunner put up earlier for the garrett turbo, which should fit your needs nicely.

inlet temps are always gonna be an issue so intercooling is definitely a must. I had an APEXi Power FC installed with my 3S-GTE and yes you can log the injector duty cycle (and a lot of other things). but really to do this all properly you're gonna have to spend the bickies and get it all done properly the first time round, from intake to exhaust, if you wanna see this thing do what you want it to for a while to come.