3sGTE Intermitant 30-40% power loss

[worldwalker]

also car only runs on ultimate. And I've put an injector cleaner additive, although I know that its not much cop.

Whats the deal with ECU and checking timing, what do you mean by using the diagnosis. I've always re-done timing the oldschool way (Mechanic dad from way back) just adjust and test run. By using the diagnosis will it tell me whats going on or is that the way it has to be adjusted?

[Mr Revhead]

oh it could be a clogged fuel filter or fuel supply issue aswell....


im more familiar with the 4AGE engines where you need to bridge 2 terminals in the diagnostics port.... check to see if you need to do that with the 3S. then check the base timing
should be 10 deg iirc.

[Roundy]

for the timing the TE1 and E1 ports in the diagnosis plug need to be bridged, this prevents any ecu interference with the timing and gives you the base timing

so
1. warm up the engine
2. shut off, bridge TE1 and E1 terminals (a paperclip works well)
3. Hook up timing gear
4. check the timing, should line up with the 10deg mark on the crank pulley
5. if it doesn't loosen the distributor and adjust til it is 10deg BTDC
6. Tighten, and take for test drive

If, using that method the timing is still correct, and the problem continues then i have nfi unfortunately

Cheers
Nathan

[Mr Revhead]

oh yep so same as 4AGE then

[stockheight]

Hi, i have a gt4 and it looks like i have the exact same problem as you. Power seems identical and fuel economy seems terrible too. So i'm very interested in this thread. Has your car ever had a piggy back computer or anything recently changed? I just removed a pfc HKS fcon that was running perfect but have had the problem since it was removed. It could be the timing as the car was done when the computer was connected so i'm going to gt the timing checked and il get back with the results.

[worldwalker]

rep for rundy and I'll let you know stockheight!!! Fingers crossed!

[worldwalker]

ok, timing has been fixed. Althought I'll get it done properly at a later date... it was at full retard... FULL. So thats why the power was jumping around and the car would hesitate and I have a feeling thats why it would cut out at high RPM's (althought I've gone down from a 3inch strait thru to a 2.75 mandrel bent).

BUT the lack of power is still there... it seems to free up more after spirited driving and gets worse after sitting at lights. So back to fuel and most likely fouled injectors due to over rich fuel because of retarded timing. So 1 problem has become 2 and 1 is solved... onto the next i spose.

Nick

[gee120]

your new issue sounds more like heat soak from sitting at the lights, im assuming that ur still running the top mounted air to air cooler

[Roundy]

your new issue sounds more like heat soak from sitting at the lights, im assuming that ur still running the top mounted air to air cooler

i tend to agree with this

also fuel injectors shouldn't 'foul' due to running rich, my car runs horribly rich (on boost), and has done for best part of 2 yrs now

[Mr Revhead]

s3gte = sw20
sw20 = not top mounted cooler.

however if the fan for the cooler has failed then thats possible.

also he says the problen is also around when its cold

[gee120]

forgot u had an mr2 but at the same time even though its mounted to the side of the engine bay it would still easily get heatsoaked in that engine bay

[Mr Revhead]

yes it would, but not if its cold.
does it still do it cold?
(i didnt see the post about the timing being checked)

[gee120]

define cold? cold as in atmospheric air temp or while the car is cold?

[ra23celica]

Have you checked if you are getting proper spark at idle and under load conditions?

[worldwalker]

Yeah its an sw20, its a 4inch core ebay cooler or some crap (on the car when I got it). Its most noticable when the car is cold on the first start of the day. It'll lack a lot of power off boost but as the revs hit the 2.5-3k mark it comes good but being cold I'm changing gear at this point. Until the engine comes to full running temps it will suffer both the symptoms, hesitation and lack of power. If I reset the ecu before I drive it, it wont show any symptoms for the first 30 seconds of drving (usually to 3rd gear).

I thought the hesitation had gone, but I did notice it do it a couple of times again tonight on my way home. The lack of power is still noticable at night (when the air temps are cold) but even more so during the day.

Another symptom to add to the list (perhaps a clearer picture of this "lack of power") The car drives fine if I dont push it feels great pulls nice, as soon as I go to boot it and really open it up, nothing happens. The car pulls EXACTLY the same. EG, if it were to take 8 seconds to wind out 2nd with it at half throttle it would still take 8 seconds at WOT.

This is a real PITA. I hate these electric subtle problems.