2T ignition wiring?? URGENT

[merc-blue]

I need help with the coil in my TA22,
it had a balast and now has a new coil and retained the old balast the new coil is a GT4 do they need a balast, does anyone have a wiring diagram of teh coil/ignition?
cheers

[celicapain]

by gt4 i assume you mean bosch gt40?
if its the have a look at the model No, there are two types, the T and the RT.
the T runs off twelve volt and the RT needs a ballast resistor.

ill draw you a little diagram of basic ignition set up.

[airfireman1]

Do you have a multimeter?There is one wire that will have power when the ignition is on, that goes to the balast resistor. There should also be one wire that only has power when you are cranking the engine. That goes on the other side of the ballast resistor, or the coil.
The idea is that you will get 12v to the coil whilst cranking and once the engine has started and you return the key to the ON position, the coil gets it voltage thru the ballast resistor. The reason for this is so that you will get maximum spark whilst starting and when running the coil has a lesser voltage and runs cooler. Heat is the enemy of electricity and causes resistance.
Hope this explains what you need.If a coil needs a ballast resistor it is usually stamped or labled"use with ballast resistor"
Cheers

[celicapain]

this is basically how my ignition is set up. n

[merc-blue]

All fixed dizzy was 180 degrees out

[celicapain]

thatll do it.

[sionyde]

Just reciently got a ta22 and am having troubles starting all the time - cranks easily but wont kick over. Have checked alot of threads and this one seems to be the closest to my problem.

The Black wire with red trace that I understand supplys 12v to + coil on crank is not doing so - where does this wire run to fix? I have a wireing diagram (ex Azrael and the Canberra Celica Group) but it doesnt show location... I stipped the loom near the battery (as the horn was wired in messey - 2 birds with one stone) and note that there is a BR wire there that goes nowhere. My thoughts are that the wire runs directly up into the dash and perhaps to a plug to jump from the thicker BR wire from the ignition down to the thin one that arrives at the coil.

I have had sucsess "hotwiring" the car - 12v to positive side of coil and the 2t immediatly jumps into life, and continues to run fine after removing the wire. th system is still a ballast resistor setup.

Would replacing the GT40 coil that I have (requires a ballast resistor as I have) with the gt40 coil that does not require one - and just forgetting about the BR wire and resistor and just using the BY that works when it should, fix the problem?? or is there more to it for this change?
I am thinking about electonic points like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I understand that the ballast resistor is not required for this type of setup so if this will fix it I will just buy the coil and be ready for this upgrade when I get to it.

[w810sc]

Have a read:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...ght=2t+ignitor

[sionyde]

Thanks for the info. Still in need of finding a solution to the original problem tho

[w810sc]

try the Bosch GT40T (no resistor). If all else fails get an MSD.

[sionyde]

Got a GT40T today and installed - started first time and doesn't seem to be any problems so far - so yes it looks like you can just swap the GT40R with its ballast resistor for the GT40T and just remove the resistor for those that want to loose the ballast.

[ToyTA22]

Glad to hear you got it going.
If you still have points ignition system you will find they will burn out a lot faster. I did the same thing with a rally car I used to have and I burnt points about twice as fast. Try to find earlier model vehicle that doesn't use ballast resistor, these points are designed for more current.