Running in HKS cams?

[GriZZly]

Ive just bought a head that has hks 264 cams in it that have never been used.. Ive heard that other cam manufacturers recommend a running in or hardening procedure for their cams, such as not letting the car idle and putting heavy duty lubricating oil on the cams before you kick it over.. I didnt get any paperwork or instructions with the head and was hoping someone could shed some light

Thanks

[takai]

What i have always done with new cams is have a fair bit of silicon grease on the cam lobes and journals. Also idle it up to 2000rpm for about 10-15mins, but dont put any excessive load on the engine for a bit.

[GriZZly]

hmm silicon grease? i wouldve thought that would leave a smear once the oil reaches the head?

yeh im planning on taking it easy wiht the engine for the first 500ks new mhg, cams and head studs..

[oldeskewltoy]

never heard of using silicone grease... moly grease is what I use and many folks I know who build engines....

[takai]

Ooops, yes. You would use Moly grease as its soluble in oil, silicon grease is not.

Ive been rebuilding bike hubs for too long, and answering posts before morning coffee.

[JustenGT8]

Yup, a form of moly grease. Any engine shop will have the stuff for running in cams, use quite a bit. As Takai says, you high idle (around 2000rpm) for 10 minutes or so and then let fully cool. Pisses your neighbours off Your bottom end is run in right? next start up take for a decent spin and work your way up to normal fanging. Dump oil and use good synthetic.

[GriZZly]

I hope its run in by now.. ive done 40000kms on it

Do i need to take it easy for the first few hundred kms to give the arp head studs a chance to do their stretching under light load before i retorque them?

[JustenGT8]

What type of head gasket? Should be no need to retorque ARP head studs and especially with metal HG.

[GriZZly]

toyota mhg.. the instructions say retorque as necessary, but you cant know if its necessary unless you do it?

[JustenGT8]

Won't need retorqueing.....well it shouldn't if you used the lube and torqued up in increments in the correct order I'm very anal when it comes to torqueing heads, one of the most vital steps to get right

[GriZZly]

yeh i followed the BGB instructions on torquing sequence and made sure it clicked while the nut was moving so it was the correct torque.. also used the included lube stuff..

so no retorquing.. apart from running it around 2k rpm and putting the moly grease on the cams and then doing the oil change am i free to then get it tuned straightaway? i dont need to run it around on light loads before i smash it again?

[JustenGT8]

Pretty much.

If you are tune restricted the best not to drive too much until it's tuned. The idle break in followd by a fresh oil change are the 2 important bits

[GriZZly]

we road tune so itll be the first thing i do once the heads "broken in".. thanks for all the info, hopefully it lasts a while this time

[takai]

I always check the torque on the head studs. Maybe im paranoid. I tend to do it twice a year on the race car....
Or whenever i have the cams out.

[30psi 4agte]

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
Yep me too !
I recheck mine after serious dyno work as well, as i have had probs before.

I would re check them just to be on the safe side. Just crack them off and re-torque them