has it been as cold down your way as it has up here?
im wondering if its hitting boost cut or your injectors cant keep up?
well.. iam not all that good at diagnosing problems on my car so i wonder if u guys can help
my little 1g today just got a severe lackage of power on boost.
the motor still starts fine runs fine, with the same amount of off boost tourqe etc, doesnt blow any smoke and opening the bonet all looks normal.
when i put my foot down.. as the boost starts to rise all feels normal ( begins to pull still) till just before it hits peak boost and the motor just goes all flat, and stays there. if i flutter the throttle jsut after it hits full boost, as the boost drops down a bit it actually pulls a bit ( feels exsactly the same as when its comming on boost).
the car was running perfect this morning, all that ive done is parked the car in my dads driveway went inside came out started it and BAM .. my problem.
the only real thing i can think of is that i have a major boost leak. but i had a bit of a feel around the pipes, and they all feel well attached, but in saying this.. my dads grass driveway has a lump in the middle of it which the intercooler usually drags over, so iam going to pull it all apart tomorrow and put it back together see if it fixes it.
but what do u guys recon. has anyone had anything similiar, or could it be anything else,
ohh and when iam full throttle and the car is feeling really flat, my boost gauge still reads 1bar.. where i had it set to
cheers
blake
Last edited by pato; 20-06-2007 at 05:36 PM.
Originally Posted by RAd28
has it been as cold down your way as it has up here?
im wondering if its hitting boost cut or your injectors cant keep up?
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
its not hitting boost cut.. cause ive had that problem before.. and its not that this time
it is freezing here, it could be injectors.. but i doubt it would just go all flat as if someone has just switched a switch and cut most of the power.
Originally Posted by RAd28
You know what, I have had a similar problem recently. Mine tends to come and go sometimes too. Doesn't matter what temperature it is outside, still happens. It also happens with 10psi or 15psi, but it's much less noticeable on 10psi
To me, it feels like the timing is retarding massively on boost. Do you get any error codes from the ECU? (bridge T and E on the diag plug). I just checked mine and I've got a 12... Ignition signal problem I think![]()
Hydra
JZA61 Celica XX
ill have a look tomorrow.. i really have no idea how to test for error codes on ecu's.. so if u have a link so i can learn woudl be sweet. if not thats cool ill just look for 1 and test it and get back to ya
but yea mine feels like that as well
Originally Posted by RAd28
Well the code meanings:
http://www.supra.co.nz/1g/1gdiag.htm
You just need to put a wire between T and E on the diag connector mateThe check engine light will flash when you turn on the ignition. It should flash out the error codes.
Hydra
JZA61 Celica XX
well i cant get to my diagnostics port because it has all this goey shit all over it
but i took it for a drive today after fixing the intercooler piping.. and it was just as bad.
i noticed tho that it had alot of popping from the exhaust when i was on full throttle and had no power
Originally Posted by RAd28
Are you running the stock computer? I seem to remember someone (JustCallMeOrlando, back in his Frank days I think) had a similar problem and it turned out to be the knock sensors.
Good boost means some things are working right. Check your AFRs, ignition timing and ECU codes. A dud knock sensor can make the ECU go into limp mode and run super-rich and also pull timing (I think), so you'll go slow, even with good boost. However I also seem to remember from the abovementioned similar situation that the ECU didn't in fact throw a snesible code for this problem.
Hen
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
iginition timing is ok.. i cant really check my afr's and my daignostic plug has all goo in it .. so ill try and clean it out and see what it says...
knock senser could be it too
thanks for your suggestions, they all sound alot like my problem, so its not seeming hopeless![]()
Originally Posted by RAd28
Pato,
That Gooy stuff stops the terminals corroding. Just use a paperclip or similar as your connector and it should be fine.
Its only a guess but it sounds to me like knock retard. How much boost are you running ? Whats your base timing set at ?
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
about 1 bar of boost
at around zero degrees
it used to ping alot until i readjusted my timing
i could turn the boost all the way down and see if that fixes it .. would that be an option ..
and with the error code testing do u have to drive it first.. or could i just go outside bridge the terminals and test it
Originally Posted by RAd28
between t and e on the diagnostics port
which t
there is TE1, TE2, TC, TS and TT
and iam presuming e is E1
Originally Posted by RAd28
Yeh TE1.
I've replaced the knock sensor wiring on mine, didn't help.
It certainly is ignition based, it clears up sometimes. Hmmm engine swap time?![]()
Hydra
JZA61 Celica XX
code 31 i think .. ( 3 flashes, 1.5 second gap, 1 flash, 4.5 second gap )
this is air flow signal .. what does this mean ?
and my afc neo is reading the same airflow signal as it allways has
Originally Posted by RAd28
well actually iam hopefully going to buy a jza70 halfcut on saturday .. but i still want this one to be perfect, because i wouldnt mind selling it.Originally Posted by Hydra
Originally Posted by RAd28
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