i have got a nice clean one for 500 bills. cheers bigwad
Last time I was at Cresta Wreckers (granted they have moved since then) they had 2JZ NA longblocks piled up out the back in the mud as well as the shiny ones in the warehouse. They had that many!!! Didn't enquire what they were asking, but they'd have to be cheap in those quantities of supply...
GTE23 - Accruing parts - Packed away in the farm container
UZA28 - Accruing parts - Packed away in the farm container
LN65 - Awaiting 1KZT dual transfer 4.88 electric locker transplant
YN65 - Drive car and cabin donor - ok fuckit 1UZ conversion
YN65 - Additional cabin donor - engineered bogan spec
i have got a nice clean one for 500 bills. cheers bigwad
There you go Norbie. $500!! Add an Ebay manifold for $300 and you're away.
You couldn't open your current motor for less than $500 once you include gaskets etc
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Are you suggesting I swap in a whole NA engine? I'd be stuck with the side-pointing throttle and a distributor, no thanks! If I go ahead with this I'm definitely keeping the TT head.
Bigwad: if I can't find a good engine locally I'll certainly keep that in mind.
1JZ-Rolla: the E6K I have came out of one of the fastest JZA80 Supras in Qld, it's been running the Haltech for years and was fine up to 900hp or so. I think it will be quite adequate for my needs.![]()
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
I was always suggesting swap in the whole n/a engine
Are the inlet ports different? I know the exhausts are? Could maybe maybe swap inlet manifolds or poss just the plenum. Or just cut and shut as an end feed, bugger all cost in that.
Complete swap or i wouldn't bother. If you are going to open them up and dick around may as well rebuild the TT.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
TT inlet ports are different to NA ones. The TT top half of the intake manifold kind of bolts up to the NA bottom half but you'd need to get pretty savage with the die grinder (and dare I say it Devcon) to make the ports line up.
Also dizzy gets in the way of any decent sized turbo, so they ditch it and use the 7M CAS or, wait for it, a TT head (which begs the question.......).
FWIW, there are some very nice intake plenums Stateside for the NA to go NA-T, but then you're defeating the whole budget build thing.
Seriously, pull it apart, linish the crank, put some fresh bearings and a set of decent 20 thou over forgies in it, buy an $80 VRS kit from Ebay and enjoy a rebuilt motor.
that ge i,ve got can come with a nice 304 ss single turbo exhaust manifold and a pro modded plunnum enlarged and throttle body pointed where ever you want. but i would want more for it then . cheers bigwad
I like this plan (I'm assuming it's not hard to get high-comp forgies for a 2JZ), but I don't like what it's going to cost me. I will check some prices though.Originally Posted by gianttomato
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Norbie i think the N/A pistons will let you down in the end ... im with GT freshen up the TT...
Keith:![]()
Not trying to be your dad or anything, but a job worth doing is worth doing well.Originally Posted by Norbie
Shit that sound so old. If your going to put any time, effort and money into one of these engines then I would be spending it the end result you want.
I did a standard rebuild on the 3tgte first time and 2 years later rebuilt it again with forges pistons, etc. Do it right first time.![]()
Cheers,
Neil.
RA40 3t-gte. Haltech fitted.
Power - 229hp at 17psi![]()
Toyota Nationals 2013, Easter Long Weekend, Dubbo, NSW
http://www.toyota-nationals.org.au/
I understand what you're saying but I've seen too many 7-800hp 2JZ's with stock bottom ends to just leap into buying expensive internals. If it was nearly any other engine I'd agree but this is the mighty 2JZ!
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
if it needs a rebuild, rebiuld it why do things twice?
I'm hearin ya, but if it's parked up in the garage with a couple of mashed pistonsOriginally Posted by Norbie
![]()
Would it be worth doing a standard rebuild? Just kicking ideas around.
Cheers,
Neil.
RA40 3t-gte. Haltech fitted.
Power - 229hp at 17psi![]()
Toyota Nationals 2013, Easter Long Weekend, Dubbo, NSW
http://www.toyota-nationals.org.au/
I would simply go for the 2jzge bottom end. Its already proven with countless NA-T builds. If it does let go which I very highly doubt uless you are silly then its still only been a cheap build.
I believe the bottom ends bar the piston CR and the oil squirters are the same between ge and gte anyway arent they ? Who has a working EPC to check..
There are a few other differences, eg oil pump, but as far as I'm aware that can be swapped easy enough.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
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