TA23 Mechanical advice required

[Turdinator]

Can I ask why? Is it a personal choice or mechanical?

My daily driver is a 2L Turbo Diesel Audi and I just love the hit when the turbo spools up and kicks in. I dont think the car would pull the skin off a rice pudding if it didnt have a turbo. (I did chip the car so it now has about 23% more power, dynoed pre and post the chip)

I have driven (although never owned) a couple of turbo cars and i really enjoyed driving them. But the sound and feel of a hard tuned NA car turns me on more. Its nothing practical its probably quite irrational infact. But its how i am.

I also like the look on peoples faces when i tell them my car isn't turbo. Most commodore drivers can't believe they just got smoked by a 70s 1.8lt 4cyl without a turbo and using carbies...

[The Real Roadrunner]

i have been pm'd by a few to get you to put the 3s in.
pm me if you want or come down to the shop and we can chat about it i have modded a few classic celicas in my time so i have an idea on whats involved.
im 15 mins away from you.
cheers
linden

[mr_unix]

computer and wiring? learn to read a diagram or failing that pm sideshow although as you would expect he charges for his work

Tried finding "sideshow" in the members list but he doesnt appear.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/member...username&ltr=S

[mr_unix]

pm me if you want or come down to the shop

Done.

I read through your post a couple of times. Does it mean that you would have to fabricate or use other type of engine mount? Will the fact that this engine was retrofitted to an AE71 cause any issues with transplanting it to a TA23?

I will also need some advice/quote on a new drivetrain, inc gearbox and tailshaft. The current W50? is not my idea of a strong gearbox, I would preffer a Supra W55? box at least.

The modified sump was done for a the 'rolla, so I guess you would have to advise me on where to source/fabricate one that fits the TA23. Same with the crossmember.

[LeeRoy]

Yeh go and chat to Roadrunner (3 posts above), he is a fabricator and can help you with most everything you need for the celica.

- LeeRoy

[mr_unix]

Yeh go and chat to Roadrunner (3 posts above), he is a fabricator and can help you with most everything you need for the celica.

- LeeRoy

I remember that SSS recommended him to me a while ago when I was helping a mate with his 12a to 13b Turbo RX-7 conversion. Never ended up doing anything cause my friend smashed it to bits.

[DQIKST]

hey dude,

get a members ride up

every one might be 6ft 6 on the net because they got there lonley selfs to go to bed with,

i myself did flame you in the for sale thread because i have been there and done what you are doin, i can say this way you will end up will a great car due to having a fine example to start with,

brakes:

Front - pug hilux for the front its been covered on here before with costs and thread so you should be able to do it yourself,

Rear - i have a hilux diff in my TA23 and used R31 skyline disc and calipers, you will need to get a braket made up, dont know who has the templete though,

suspension

i cant help you here sorry,

engine:

you dont have to keep it toyota if you do not want too, remember this is your car and your building it for self satisfaction, anything done properly will be drool worthy,

for 13s though, a stock 1GGTE should be able to get you there, but they are not the prettiest engine in factory form,

search for (the toyman75 RA28), 13.4 @104mph
i myself have run a 13.7 @ 91mph, others have gone quicker, all depends on who is driving, tyres and 60ft,

Electrical:

side show does some nice work, i will admit i have seen better, and he does charge,
mos on this forum does electrical work also, search " the unicorn TA22" and check out his work,

Fabrication,

Liden a.k.a the real roadrunner a.k.a roadrunner performance again he does some fantastic work, kicking myself in the butt for not taking my car there, also check out rods ( the toyman75) RA28 he done alot of the fabrication on it

budget

tripple it if you cannot do most of the work yourself, other wise save up or let it become another unicorn even though no body wants to see that, all i know is that everything is doable at a price, get a quote off some one, if you can afford it go knock yourself out,

e.g
also dont just buy that bosch 044 pump because your at the shop, buy it when your ready and financially comfortable

nice car, real nice car just make sure that when its done it looks even nicer because i will definatly blow you up LOL

cya

[mr_unix]

Thanx for the info. I have a few ideas on the break side of things after reading a lot of posts, and its along the same lines as you posted.

I will need help in fitting the Hilux Diff though with panhard rods and the suspension kit.
I'm aiming towards a Koni coilover setup, unless someone else can give me a better idea.

[Petes77celica]

Welcome mate i have a fair idea where your coming from i myself is doing up an RA-23 with a 1JZ. I can say though that Side show does do awesome work as i got him to strip the entire JZA70 loom so as that i can put it into my celica gave gave me wiring diagrams and everything very good to deal with. As for the engine conversion part you do learn a hell of a lot mind you i followed the designs of someone that had done the conversion but you do find other little things along the way that may need to be changed and it also helps when u have people that work in the industry. As for brakes for the front you can do the pug hilux conversion thats well documented but there is also the other option Hopper Stoppers in Melb do a big brake kit for the old celica and you can retain the factory 4 Stud if you wish. With the rears you can do the hilux diff conversion but however there is a bit of work to get that to fit from what i have read and im not sure if the brake booster is different to the RA-23 but the JZA-70/MA-70 master cylinder bolts staight up to my RA-23 one with only a slight modification to get the brake lines in but very easy. Any questions just ask and ill see help.
Regards Pete

[DQIKST]

you will need adjustable pan hard rod, and might need adjustable control arms all depends on who does the fabrication

GA70 brake booster with i think landcruise 1'' thing a ma bob, need to check engineers papers again,

definetly need handbrake cables with the hilux, and if you use R31 skyline you will retain factory stud pattern,

going to be hard to keep original gauges, my suggestion it to re calibrate your standered tacho and speedo, get your self a nice GT oil/charge gauge and fit it to the stock cluster, then find yourself a shit clock, keep your original one aside, then use the cup of the shit clock ( strip the guts out, ) and a 2 1/16th autometer boost gauge will fit and look right at home,

also with the 1G you will need to check it out properly because there are so many ways it can fit, some may cause you to cut hole in floor pan for shifter some dont,

also i think all this info can be put in a members ride

[mr_unix]

Thanks very much for the info DQIKST, I would have never thought of the gauges idea.

I read a couple of posts while searching for stuff regarding the break booster and seems like its a recommended thing to do.

I'll prolly put up a post in Members Rides tomorrow.

[kristian]

nice ta23 u got your self there

[o_man_ra23]

Mate, I am currently in the process of doing a 3SGTE into RA23 conversion (motor should arrive soon). From all reports, yes the 3SGTE is a harder engine to convert, but its very rewarding. The 1GGTE poses the problem of having extra weight forward of the front wheels. Although the engine itself weighs about the same as the 3S, the extra over-hang can play havoc with your weight balance. My advice is to do the 3S conversion, and the one Roadrunner has for sale would be very worthwhile getting. The other thing is that often the AE71 crossmember is used (and modified) to get rack and pinion steering into the classic celicas (I will be going down this route), so with the engine mounts already setup for an AE71 xmember, theres one less thing you need to do. The sump should also fit without a worry.

The W50 is quite a strong box, dont discount it for that reason. The reason the W5x (W55, W57, W58) are used is that the bellhousings from the Y series hilux motors (going to G series Gearbox) fit the 3S and W5x (not W50 though) and put the starter motor on the intake side (unlike the 2S-C bellhousing from the SA63 celica, where the starter is on the exhaust side).

You say your a telecommunications engineer, you should be quite familiar with wiring then (I am an electrical/electronic engineer, have done some telecommunication stuff, not much though), so you should at least be able to formulate a reasonable block diagram if not a schematic, and then pass that to somebody like sideshow/mos etc to be able to do the work for you.

Diff... if your budget is open, get an F series, they are a lot lighter than the G series, are easy to get LSDs for (both clutchpack and torsen), has rear disk setups available (any that fit T series will fit F series, but not G series) and can be found in 4 or 5 stud. Problem is that they need to be shortened. Get rid of the panhard rod and replace it with a watts link, they are a far better design, and centre your diff through the full suspension travel (unlike the panhard rod which will push it from side to side dependant on what the suspension is doing). Coilover rear is difficult and will require a lot of fabricating as the standard mounting points arent strong enough for it. Also it wont give much benefit with a solid rear axle. An IRS diff (again easily found in F series with rear disk) however, will give excellent results, but requires a LOT of fabrication and will be quite expensive. It has been done, but you will need to shorten it (which is harder than shortening a live axle)

Front brakes, (again, they arent breaks... breaks are what you need after a few hours working) the hilux/pug/rona setup as mentioned you can use the standard booster, then a MA70 master cylinder. You will most likely need a brake bias controller of sorts too. Another option is the AU series 3 disks with your choice of large callipers (I think I will try for nissan 6 pots) is another option, especially if you want hardcore race braking with no fade, and/or 5 stud. It does limit you to 16" or larger wheels though.

There are some options to think about. One thing I will flame you for if you do it is a large and obnoxious front mount intercooler... FFS, get a W2A intercooler if you want serious intercooling!! Oh and cannon exhausts should be kept well clear of classic celicas. Fibreglass packed mufflers are much nicer, and growl better too.

Cheers, Owen

[TA-022]

for simplicity buy RoadRunners 3sgte .. boom done heaps easy.

being fitted to a AE71 makes life easy for you becuase now you want to improve steering so get a ke/ae70 crossmember .... lop the ends of to fit the celica .... weld angle onto the ends (to strengthen) adn redrill the mount holes to fit.

motor now bolts in.

I have done the steering conversion my self and can tell you it eats the std steering box easily for feel and ease of driving.

plus racks are serviceable where as apparently gears for the steering boxes are no longer available.

All steering and 1G fitting documented here in my thread. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5909

or Joel on here (Turbo28) has done the same steering setup but with a fully rebuilt and converted from FWD to RWD 3SGTE.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184

And wiring is fairly simple because these older cars are quite basic in terms of wiring. Main things that need doing is hooking up a few power and earths into the motors wiring wether its 3S or 1G or any other EFI motor ... everything else is independant of the engines wiring bar perhaps air con idle up would be a mix of celica wiring and computer control of the engines idle to compensate.

SR20 3S 1G anyway ya go some1 won't like it but in the end there are enough of us that will agree with what ya do to help ya out

[mr_unix]

Thanks for your input guys. I've had a good chat with Roadrunner today and visited his shop.
His 3SGTE is unfortunately gone, someone put a deposit down quick when they heard me sniffing around it, but after a visit to SSS, it seems that there is a large pool to choose from and finding a good unit with low KM's wont be hard. Just means RR will have to spend a bit more time modifying to suit the RWD format. Seems I will probably get him to do most of the work, I'll just have to start sourcing all the bits and pieces now so he can start on it in the next 3 or 4 weeks.

Also looks like I've found my wheels



Deep dish for the rears, seen a car with them on in RR's workshop and fell in love straight away.