ST185 3S-GTE - ARP head studs - how to re-torque?

[Hengist]

Just done my head gasket, all went OK.

However, I have to re-torque the ARP head studs after a couple hundred miles use.

Has anyone done this - and if so, how the hell do you re-torque the stud at the end of the intake camshaft without removing timing belt, pulley and camshaft for access?

I managed to torque all mine up OK with a 3/8" 12mm multi-hex socket, but only before the camshafts were put back in. With the intake one in, I can't see that I can reach that nut!

Anyone?

Cheers!

[oldeskewltoy]

Since ARP is in the states and they have a toll free # I called them and they told me there is NO retorqueing required for their studs(kit 203-4204) purpose... (does the head gasket require a retorque???) The specs for the 3SGTE stud and nut kit is 65# with moly and 80#s with 30 weight oil... That is from ARP directly... no retorque required

[STREET 4ST]

yeah his right if you did the right torque settings you shouldnt have to retoque them again
generally when we build engines if there is a problem wit the head say for instance it was warped we would heat it and clamp it and check to see how flat and then if all good install
we would use the same settings but genereally retorque after the run in
but yeah only if we had problems with the head being warped

[mr2mark]

as taken from mr2oc a thread made by noshoes

How to retorque ARP studs after engine break-in
I've been meaning to post this write-up for a while now. I've noticed over the years that MR2 enthusiasts do not take the time to retorque their ARP studs after engine break-in.

During the break-in period, the engine heat cycles, there are many vibrations that move things around, and other things that move the studs in the block. You have to re-torque the studs after this period, mainly to make sure the studs are seated in the block properly. If you do not, the head will eventually lift, and you'll get combustion gasses into the coolant system, overheating the car.

Here's what you do to keep this from happening:

1) Remove the valve cover.

2) Refer to the factory torque sequence (starting in the middle and working your way out in a criss-cross pattern just like you torque your wheels down), and work on one stud at a time. This torque sequence is shown below.



3) Break loose the first stud using a breaker bar.

4) Remove the nut completely. (A magnetic pick up toll works wonders!)

5) Use an allen key socket (A handheld tool just doesn't cut it here.) to bottom out the stud in the block.



6) Make sure the nut is cleaned, and liberally apply ARP moly lube (not oil, not multi purpose grease, but ARP moly lube) to the nut.

7) Torque the nut down to 65 ftlbs. (Not 70, not 75, but 65ftlbs)

8) Move to the next stud/nut combo in the torque sequence.

9) Repeat steps 3-8 in the correct torque sequence until you have done them all.

10) Clean the valve cover gasket mating surface with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Use a razor blade to remove old silicone from the mating surface.

11) Apply a dab of Toyota FIPG (the black stuff) at each corner (where the semi-circle meets the flat surface of the head) of the 2 cam caps on the timing belt side, and the distributor shaft tunnel on the flywheel side. This will be 6 dabs of silicone total. (I have no idea how many times I have seen the valve cover installed without these dabs of silicone.) This is shown in the picture below.



12) Secure the valve cover with bolts or the 2SRUS allen key bolts using the factory grommets and you're good. Just DON'T use the stupid phillips head screws.

I hope this helps folks with rebuilt engines. If you do this properly, made sure your block and head were machined properly, and prevent detonation the best you can, you should not have a head gasket problem.

Happy motoring everyone!

hope it helps

[Hengist]

OK, thanks guys.

My head was skimmed (a fair amount ... 24/1000 inch) because it was bowed.

So, going by the above posts, I do need to re-torque?

In which case, the question remains - if anyone's done this, what's the easiest way to get in to the one stud I mentioned?

Cheers & thanks for the help!

[Fish]

cheers for the info dude