1JZ ECU capacitor replacement info

[Jaemus]

awesome thread, going to become more and more useful for anyone with an ECU methinks as time wears on.

[TERRA Operative]

anyone willing to help redue the capacitors on my jza70 ecu???
im not that steady with a solderer and would feel safer with someone else doing it.
im willing to send my ecu to you, or if in newcastle, sydney or ideally central coast i can bring it to you. either you or i get the appropriate capacitors and i can pay you for the effort after they are in...any takers???

You can send it my way if you like. I have capacitors here, top quality Nichicons, Rubycons, and Panasonics, rated to 105 degrees operating temp, high ripple rejection, etc, etc...

PM me if you want to go ahead.

[Admiral coFF33]

thanks for all the info on this thread guys !

much help indeed !

[neusys]

ADD ON INFO: (Sori if repeat)

1JZ auto cant change gear and sumtimes felt like tourqe converter slip.

The cause was the Capacitor in the ECU. (35v,15uf).

[Slim]

I finally got round to checking and replacing the capacitors in my JZX81 ECU. Here's a couple of pics of the old ones that i removed.



I haven't put the ECU back in the car yet so i don't know if i'll notice a difference in the way it runs. Should i expect to notice anything?

[TERRA Operative]

Looking at those caps, yep. Could be anything from better economy, to smoother running to whatever.

What caps did you use to replace those with?

[Slim]

I bought one of the sets of capacitors that urantia had put together. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...5&postcount=56

I'll go ride my bike round to where the car is stored tomorrow and put it back together. I'll have to find someone with a licence to test out the smoothness and economy for me.

[TERRA Operative]

Sounds like a good set of caps, they're the brands I use for recapping stuff.

Let us know how it goes.

[xistant]

I bought one of the sets of capacitors that urantia had put together. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...5&postcount=56

I'll go ride my bike round to where the car is stored tomorrow and put it back together. I'll have to find someone with a licence to test out the smoothness and economy for me.

holla ^_^

and roflmao at bike u poor bugga

[Sciflyer]

If nothing else you saved your ECU from certain death (the caps vomit on the board and the vomit eats away at the circuit tracks)

[deck-star]

I had trouble removing a capacitor. The board looks burnt around the area I had trouble with. See the red section below.
The areas around it also seem burnt (hightlighted in yellow circles)
Can anyone tell me if I've killed this circuit board? Can I carry on as normal, or can I fix up something?
I'm not sure if this bad area is from the heat or if it was there already.
This is the best I could manage with the camera.

Looks good from the other side

[Ribfeast]

Might be OK, best to just try soldering a cap on and see if it runs. You may need to run some solder along the tracks if they are broken in any way, to repair them.

I found the best way to replace these is to get a sharp scalpel, and then cut the legs off the body of the capacitor, cutting as close to the capacitor as possible.
This should leave you with a board with 2 legs sticking out of it, but no capacitor. Then clean away any corrosion if present with some circuit board cleaner, and solder the new capacitor to the old one's legs.

[TERRA Operative]

For the burnt track, follow it both ways until you find a solder pad at each end.
Solder a bit of wire from one to the other, effectively bypassing the burnt section.

Alternatively, you could try carefully scratching the track back to bare copper on either side of the burn and using a short bit of wire (bare wire is easier to use, like a leg from a cap or resistor).

I've done the same in an MR2 ECU and the thing worked fine.

[deck-star]

ECU seems to work.
Hopefully if any problems arise from burnt tracks they'll do so at a good time.
It would have been good to cut the caps off like you said Ribfeast.
Thanks for the advice TERRA. If probs arise I'll follow through with that.

[petergoudie]

1) Buy a 'solder sucker' from Jaycar, Dick Smith or ebay (10 to 25 dollars although they all look the same no matter what the price is). It is a sprung loaded syringe looking device with a teflon nozzle. You melt the solder and stick the teflon nozzle onto the molten solder and press the button. All the solder is sucked into the syringe body. You can then lift the items out of the holes on the board.

2) With luck, the burnt board only has the protective varnish burnt and the tracks are OK.