MA61/ 1JZ in Canada

[ReQuieM]

I gotta say I'm a fan of Miller or the australian delivered version!

Besides your car being sex, what is that clutch? I'm trying to identify mine (in another thread) but that pressure plate looks similar... is it rebuilt and upgraded stocky? Not sure what you mean by stage 3...

[Yotaholic]

O.K. I couldn't just leave it in the garage so I got the controller figured out after damn near blowing my shit up again !! I spiked to 23.4 psi when I hit fuel cut at 50% boost setting on the Profec I had made a run on the low setting on 25% and that was good 10 psi steady with no fuel cut .I then switched to high and had it set at 50% ( not thinking it through as I set low and high before I Ieft ) I damn near shit in my pants when I looked at the peak after making the run . Talk about learning the hard way ..damn!!! Anyway no harm done I hoping as the fuel cut hit at 15 psi and no strange noises or loss of power after so lesson learned to start small and work your way up ,but my head said if 100% is everything they have then 50 % should be safe .. Not so it seems dumbass !!! I'll do a compression test again tomorrow just to be sure all is as it was before this screwup .. Am I making too much of this or is it as bad as I think it is spiking that high even just for that second ??

the horrible run ... and to think I was trying to take it easy .



Requiem ...its a Spec clutch and it's classed as a stage 3 + heres a link

http://www.specclutch.com/

[chris davey]

stock boost is usually about 8-10psi but as soon as you fit an exhaust and intercooler you will get to about 13-14psi naturally. With twin dump pipes it will usually hit fuel cut.

I don't see how you could have SET at 25% and only run 10psi unless you have a DEAD STOCK engine.

pm me your email and I can send you some stuff I have on setting up the profec b

Mine was easy. Set at 0, gain at 10, start boost at .75 bar. 15psi dropping to 14.5 or so at the top Not stock turbos though

[Yotaholic]

Thanks Chris pm sent !!

[Yotaholic]

Thanks Chris that info was extremely helpful and after several attempts to keep it under 15psi I have come to the conclusion that my stock boost is now past my fuel cut . With the unit off i'm hitting cut as fast as it can spool to 15psi then ..cut stumble stumble boost spike let off the gas and it's fine again. WIth the unit on and set as low as it can go I hold boost at 13 psi on an up hill grade in 5th at WOT but I didn't get a chance to reach any high rpms as I was flying at that point and running out of my safe section of highway .. if I try a hard pull in 3rd with this same setting I hit 13 psi then it acts like it wants to hold and then creeps to 15 and cut .. I don't have a tach yet so I can't say where the rpms are . More work to do I guess, maybe a fcd but to be honest I would have liked to keep it under 15psi . and keep the cut as a safety net . Are there any other alternatives other then watching my boost guage every time I hit the gas in hopes of shifting before 15 psi ???
fcd, ecu upgrade , safc , maybe these options are the way to go it's just another piece of the puzzle that I need to figure out. Suggestions welcome !!

[thechuckster]

the hard way (but mst sensible) would be to temporarily remove some of the piping on the turbo side and lengthen the control rods on the actuators - a PITA job but the net result is lower PSI required to open waste-gates which is what you need for your boost control.

then you can use a proper boost controller ($20 ebay bleed valve thru to $$$ turbosmart eBoost) ... i'm assuming that one of your ECUs has a PWM output that can control boost?

Also - your cold weather (summer is only starting there?) is going to give you cold intake air temps and that will increase intake air density resulting in increased boost... can you log ambient and inlet air temps?


edit: beer+cars =

[Dieseltrain]

then you can use a proper boost controller ($20 ebay bleed valve thru to $$$ turbosmart eBoost) ... i'm assuming that one of your ECUs has a PWM output that can control boost?

edit: beer+cars =

Your kidding right? The Profec B spec 2 is used on many Highly boosted race cars and many street cars with alot of cred! I myself am running one of these and can adjust my boost to whatever i want

Dont dis it if ya dont know it!

And why would you buy an Eboost and use a bleed valve for? That just proves that the eboost's solenoid setup isnt all that good? ( which i have heard they are awsome) OR, you dont really know how to set one up properly.

[chris davey]

you replying to the right topic Charles?

he has stock ecu, good twin dump pipes, exhaust etc. profec B. It is hitting boost cut with no boost controller so he could do as you said re the wategate actuators but I don't think many people would bother.

SAFC or FCD is the answer.

Personally I think the increase in boost because of the twin dumps will be offset by the fact that exhaust gasses aren't clashing into each other, therefore reducting EGT's and hopefully extending the ceramic turbos lives

[thechuckster]

Chris: i think i was - am home having a sick day with flu ...

Diesel: if you re-read my post, you'll realise i'm not dissing the profec - i'm not sure how it operates hence my query. I was also suggesting there's a range of boost controllers (cheap thru to expensive) - only an idiot would run two connected serially.

What i was trying to point out was that to control boost effectively - and below the factory limit - you have to lower the point at which the waste-gate opens up. As Yotaholic rightly points out in an earlier post, you can't set a boost control limit lower than what the existing hardware is currently performing at.

... and what yotaholic wants is a boost limit lower than the 15psi that he's currently hitting. All the solutions we're talking about (profec, eBoost, bleed valve etc) lift boost limits.

fwiw: I'm going the route of waste-gate spring pressure set to open at approx 6 psi and PWM bleed valve controlling the amount of boost the actuator sees. Will be closed loop and with at 8x8 target map (out of a $300 ECU !) so i can dial whatever limits i want at load v/s rpm points. This is how the profec works?

[chris davey]

No good mate.

Profec is not closed loop. Simply just whack in % of of duty on the solenoid (0 being off), gain is 0-100 which basically is used if the boost is dropping off in the top end and a point at which the wastegate opens in psi or bar. This can be used to spike it eary to bring it on quicker. Not as many mapping points as yours but I am very happy with it and how simple it is to use. As you said though, it cannot fix yotaholic's problem.

[Dieseltrain]

Sorry CHuck, I thought you meant a Bleed valve thru to a Eboost ! As in series! Thats the way it reads.

[Yotaholic]

Well guys after almost month of trying to decide the best option to solve my cut issues I found a Mines ecu and should have it in a couple of days . It came from a 92 Jza70 with similer mods to mine so i'm hoping for good results. Maybe it's our cold climate thats raising my boost #'s but anyway the ecu should cure all the cut issues. I like the reviews i've read on the MInes upgrades !! Would anyone like to share any comments on it and if it's a noticable improvement ? Any issues I should know about ? Thanks for all the advise guys it's a comfort when you guys give your opinions as the 1J is old news to you and I like doing things right the first time and that comes from your experiance . Cheers !!!

[chris davey]

Mines ecu's are tuned to each vehicle so the tune is a bit of a mystery. Best to put it on a dyno and check afr's and that there is no knock to be sure. Some people have had some good results with them. Best used in conjunction with a SAFC or similar as the Japanese tend to tune bloody rich.

[Yotaholic]

Thanks Chris I guess a wideband is next on the list . It's a 700km trip to a dyno so it will happen just not for a while . All I have is a shitty lightshow narrowband a/f guage so I don't have much confidence in what i'm seeing , although it's at 3 green bars at 14psi so i'm hoping thats some indication i'm getting enough juice. The ecu may change that so i'm gong to need a wideband very soon. Any thoughts on the AEM UEGO ??
The car it came from had the same y pipe and 3" exhaust , fmic and stock twins with stock injectors so I really hope it's going to work well with my setup. I'll know soon enough
I can't wait to drive it without hitting cut every time I hit the gas !!! WWaaahoooo

[thechuckster]

Yota - you can get cheap(ish) wideband sensors from DiY autotune (Suwannee, GA). I ended up importing one from them rather than wait for a local shop to get off its arse and place my order. $199 US plus delivery.

Most of the megasquirt distributors sell these and i think there's wide distro--network in the states and canada.

There's a few US guys (one example) running megasquirt on their 1Js now and some of the msextra developers are canadian.