How are your wheel bearings? If their slack the outer edges will hit first, then fade off into the middle. Only thing is that it seems pretty clear cut where the line ends?
Yeah, i tend to brake very early when approaching red lights (unlike my dad that brakes at the last minute). I thought that might have something to do with it too.That being said, I often give the brakes a beating when visiting friends on the other side of the dandy's (i must go right past your place in montrose mr. shin!). After those trips the marks tend to disappear, but come back after the next normal drive. The more i think about it, the more it sounds like the slides are seized... when i brake hard the marks go away, but come back later when they tighten up again.
Last time i greased up the calipers i used permatex caliper grease. It doesn't seem to have worked, what other types have you guys used before? I'm going to have to budget for a complete rebuild kit from toyota (they're the supplier afaik). The kit includes the sliding bushes and all the rubber bits.
How are your wheel bearings? If their slack the outer edges will hit first, then fade off into the middle. Only thing is that it seems pretty clear cut where the line ends?
The wheel bearings seem ok as far as i can tell, there's no play when i rock the wheel from the top and bottom. There is play when i rock the wheel left to right though, but hopefully that'll go away when i replace the tie rod ends this weekend.
get some HTB high temp bearing grease, the black one,
clean up the slides asmuch as possible, if theres any rust give them a buff with a wire brush or wet and dry sand paper,
put some grease on the slide, and some inside the rubber slide boot cover...., then work the slide in and out a bit, till your satisfied that its lubed up nicely,
i had this with our $200 shitter VP commy, calipers were seized and so were the slides, few track events later and they slide freely, considering the heat that racing event put thru calipers/slides,
(i also do this to all customer cars if the slides apear dry)
On my previous car i had a small amount of grease on the disks at one point (don't ask how or why) but it sent the disk a blackish or darker color like you have in the inner part of the disk. Could some of the caliper grease have got on the disk?
The marks come about after normal driving, and then dissapear after a hard run so it wont be a grease issue.
Make sure you update after the callipers get rebuilt mate.
I don't use a Toyota designated rotor so the fact I have a full sweep of the disc can be disregarded. The fact that you know the pad is almost flush with the outer of the disc is fine.Originally Posted by AndyTTR
I rebuilt my calipers using a genuine Toyota kit and it was about $90 and that included the piston seals, slide boots etc. It comes with a very small amount of caliper grease too.
I use PBR caliper and rubber grease as it seems to work well. DO NOT USE anything other than caliper grease or rubber grease on the slide parts of the caliper!!!!
If you reassemble the caliper with the incorrect grease it will all feel great, nice and smooth and easy to slide for a little while. But wait a day or two and the rubber boots will be binding to the bushing. The bushing slides against the end of the rubber boot (you will see this when you assemble it). Using anything other than the correct grease will cause the calipers to bind, most people don't notice this because they reassemble the caliper and then fit it straight to the car and hence never know).
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Most likely the dark part is caused by heat and the pad is not running on the light part on all occasions, like when lightly braking i suggest you take out your pads and make sure there is not a build up of anything on the top of the pad like brake dust. Rub the pad on the concrete before replacing to make sure its all flat and replace and see if it changes.
Cheers
David
There may be a slight angle in the way the pads a seated and under normal conditions is causing that area not to be clamped as much. If you can, do some hard braking from various speeds, making sure you really plant the foot down on the pedal. See how that changes the look of the disc.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
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