For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[The Witzl]

especially if you start with an 18RG to begin with is my point

Not really, the costs are similar when building any tough motor. Sure a couple of parts might be a little cheaper, but its still no cheap exercise!!

[Zammo]

true

i guess if it were me i wouldnt use a rareish old motor to do 9sec 1/4s

[The Witzl]

to build any 9 second motor, you are looking at about double or TRIPPLE what Peter Kip is asking for his 18RG.
I would SERIOUSLY consider buying it if i had more money in my car funds, or was at an earlier stage of my build.

Even if you were to start with a more modern engine, like say a 3SGTE or a even a JZ series engine, you would be up for similar costs to build the engine to a similar level - but the end result would probably be a stronger and/or more powerful engine compared to the old 18RG.

Building engines isnt cheap, no matter what the engine is.

[JustenGT8]

Yup, my UZ build wasn't extreme by any means and I was near those dollars on the short block alone....headwork to come. It was going to end up a 5 figure build at mate's rates

[RA40peter]

Have just posted in parts wanted but thought I would put it here as well.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...50#post1474250

Chasing a single 0.5mm oversize piston to replace a damaged one. Even a second hand one would be fine
Thanks
Peter

[The Witzl]

Peter - i cant help you there unfortunately.


I am also chasing parts.... i need the the bracing brackets that go from the lower rear of the block to the lower half of the bellhousing, and i also need a flywheel (to pinch the ring gear).
Anyone have these?

[roadkill]

Witzl - mate i should have a flywheel here. Original cast, and i maaaaaaaaay have those bellhousing brackets. I'm in brisbane though, so freight might be a kicker for the flywheel.

bEn

[The Witzl]

auspost will take up to 20kg.... so would be fine.
If you have it all, im happy to swing you money for case of beer + post costs? What's your postcode and i can get estimate for post from auspost website.

[Rens]

Ive got one of those brackets in my garage. the other was broken when i bought my last engine.

[Willofan]

Have dozens spare brackets Witzl, when and where?
Might even have a spare flywheel if I dig deep.

[The Witzl]

i'll shoot you a PM willo

[RA40peter]

Thanks anyway Witzl

[roadkill]

Hi Witzl - I'll have a look in the daylight tomorrow for the brackets and let you know. Postcode is 4055. I can always e-go it for you if you want.

bEn

[The Witzl]

Hi Ben, ill try the more local option with wilofan first, failing that ill hit you up.

[The Witzl]

i received a PM from another thread asking some questions that I think should be answered publicly.

This PM is in reference to this thread here - http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=76024

Hey mate, thanks heaps for all the info.

So I have the 18R-GEU dizzy but it needs a new cap, will the 18R-C cap fit? looking at the 22R-E loom for the plugs if they will fit and then going to get an aftermarket ECU.

I know I am going to need a surge tank for the fule and an electronic fuel pump but is there anything else I would need?

Yes an 18RC dissy cap will fit an 18RGEU dissy base. All versions of 18R distributors are the same body (virtually) and use the same dissy cap.

If you are looking to go for an Aftermarket ECU, most will come with a couple of meters of wiring so that you can make up your own loom, which I would recommend doing anyway.
As such, there is no point to buying a complete 22re loom unless it is dirt cheap (like $40 or less).

The only connectors you need are:

1. Water temp sensor (the green plug on the thermostat housing). You can get this connector from a 22re, 5me, 2se, and other similar age toyota EFI cars. Its the same connector.
2. TPS. The 18RGEU uses a 3-position switch for the tps, rather than a fully variable sensor. As such, you need to upgrade the TPS. I found a good one to go for is the TPS from an early nissan pintara, which you can adapt to the 18RGEU throttle body using a piece of 3mm alloy plate.
3. Injector plugs. You can get these from 5me, 22re, 2se, etc. You can even buy them new on ebay and stuff i think.
4. Distributor VR sensor. Personally I tend to replace this myself with a new 2pin plug from Supercheap/jaycar/etc at a cost of $5 or so

The rest is taken care of by making the loom anew using the bare loom you get with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, as most other things the ECU needs is power, earth, and shit.