For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[o_man_ra23]

Seeing as I can see the ring in the photo... I would say a re-ring isn't going to happen... new slugs would be the only real option. Cheapest thing to do would be to buy a good running motor, and sell this one as a rebuilder to somebody who is going turbo or the like that would put new slugs in anyway.

Best thing to do would be oversized forgies with hairdryer and EFI

[Brad91]

Hey guys, i have an 18 RG waiting to go into my Ra28. The issue is it hasnt been started in about 5 or 6 years im told. What does everyone reccomend i do before putting it in the car, and before starting it up. Obviously check it has oil etc but i am more interested in replaceing bearings, getting the head/bores checked etc???. Thanks, also i am a 2nd year apprentice fridgy so money is quite tight.
Thanks again.

Brad

[Steve M]

I read a mention of burning oil.

A ring gap that large would cause that.
Faulty valve seals could also cause that. (these are cheap parts to buy but not the same as 18R-C though, different size. They are the same as Toyota "2L" Diesel engines, though). This is a cheap job if you can do it yourself. Standard off-the-shelf valve spring compressors don't work on these heads.

The piston tops and combustion chambers look very clean. This is good. That ring gap and the fact that it is so visible is bad. It looks like you've got standard pistons in an oversize bore.

The timing chain tensioner slipper needs replacing as it looks quite shit. Buy an 18R-C one and bend it into the same shape as the 18R-G one and then source a mushroom headed tensioner plunger-thing (I had some made for my tensioners, they were about $30 each).

I wouldn't use the standard tensioner end as it normally goes onto a metal surface and the 18R-C slipper has a rubber lump, which would wear quickly with a skinny tensioner end. If you need more information about these, pm me.

[thdevilshands]

Hmmm okay, the pistons are very sloppy in the bores all the way through so it looks like its new engine or full rebuild.

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to o_man_ra23 again."
"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to checksix again"

Cheers for the help lads.

[checksix]

Brad91, if you are on a budget, then checking the bearing and bores is best done by seeing how well the engine runs, otherwise once you start taking it apart to "check" things it is going to require a good budget because once inside, you generally start replacing things.

Oil that is 5-6 years old isn't going to be all that good in my opinion, and as cheap as it is, I'd drain and refill before starting it. Then I'd recommend a little light oil down the bores and while the plugs are out, turn it over some with the starter motor if you can, this will pressurize the oil passages and spread some lube around. have a mechanical oil pressure gage attached and while spinning the motor see if it builds pressure (this might take a bit of spinning to do this so have a real good battery). If you can build pressure, the chances are that the bearings are in good shape. You can then do a compression test. This won't be real accurate, as the oil in the bores will boost the ring sealing ability, but if you have a broken ring or burnt valve, this test will find that and you'll know a tear down is required. Most important is the pressures you see are consistent for all 4. Also make sure the throttle is wide open for the test, it gives better results.

Let us know how this goes and will advise from there.

[checksix]

Devilshands, sorry mate that O-man is giving you bad new, but I think his advice is quite sound, and in the long run it will be cheaper to buy a running engine than fix this one unless you have the time and money or were going for a performance motor anyway.

[Omegaman]

Just another quick observation, re the dizzy.
should'nt the rotor button face approx 1 o'clock for TDC and not 6 o'clock.
OR has you moved it, prior th taking pic?

[thdevilshands]

o man - the slugs are all pretty loose in the bores, time to remember some words of wisdom when it comes to engine building

*Lift her top (bonnet)
*scratch the head (is she worth it)
*pull it out (engine)
*strip her down (engine)
*do the in and out motion (hone)
*fit some tickers (rings)
*get a good head job (valve service)
*don't forget the rubbers (valve seals)
*slap her bits gently back together (assemble)
*put it back in (engine in car)
*turn her on (start it up)
*gently warm her up (get temp)
*she will be a bit tight (fresh rebuild)
*so be gentle at first (run in)
*after a few good night (gathering kms)
*drive it hard (rev it)
*and after some time it will become loose again (worn out ring/bearings)
*then you operate on it. (rebore/sleeve)
*then tight again (full recon)
*or replace her (new engine)

We'll see what money and time allow!!

Omegaman - thats how we got it and where tdc was timed but I really dont know. I'm off to consult the green book.

cheers, Jon

[Ella]

Hi guys,

since putting up a deposit on my 18R-G i have been wading through this thread slowly, up to page 65 now and reading steadily.

Going next weekend to pull the thing from the car its in, is there anything i should make sure i get with the motor to aid it working in the car its going into (rt40 corona)

for a bit of background info its a 253 headed motor, recently rebuilt and apparently has serious amounts of compression...

I'm looking to commission someone to go over the whole thing while its out of the car and make sure during said rebuild no important corners were cut or anything like that. i have a guy in mind but im not even sure he would take on the job to be honest, hes that good he can pick and choose his work.
If theres anyone on here that can offer a similar service id be more than willing to swing a cash job your way...

Also if anyone has any handy hints on putting a 18R-G into the rona id be all ears too

cheers,
Luke

[toyboyracer]

If there weren't so many bloody cars here already I'd say do it here

Don't forget to charge the 50 plate truck battery before coming over on the weekend

[Steve M]

Omegaman, Well Spotted!
Yes, that dizzy is 180degrees out, that is unless the plug leads are rotated around the dizzy cap two positions, then it would be perfect.

[toyboyracer]

Hey guys, i have an 18 RG waiting to go into my Ra28. The issue is it hasnt been started in about 5 or 6 years im told. What does everyone reccomend i do before putting it in the car, and before starting it up. Obviously check it has oil etc but i am more interested in replaceing bearings, getting the head/bores checked etc???. Thanks, also i am a 2nd year apprentice fridgy so money is quite tight.
Thanks again.

Brad

............................................

Ok, drop the oil 1st

Replace oil with $7.99 stuff

Tighten sump plug

Remove fuel line from front carby and plug with a bolt

Remove the plugs

Buy a can of Inox

Spray Inox "liberally" into spark plug holes

Spray Inox into side drafts with them at full throttle

Remove tappet cover and spray Inox "liberally" over rocker assemblies

Reattach cover

Crank motor by hand 20 times

Attach battery and wizz that motor over for ummm... 30 seconds

Drop oil

Replace oil filter

Tighten sump plug

Fill with quality oil of your choice

Put in new plugs - 40 thou gap

Gravity feed some go go juice (petrol) as your will be stale in the tank

And "hopefully" it will be all good.

If not, I've got a few other "tips"

[Willofan]

Has anyone seen this 152E set up as a solution for worn timing chain guides??



Is anyone able to machine up something like this this and supply to all the RG and TG desperates??

[o_man_ra23]

Which way the rotor points at #1 TDC is irrelevant, as the spark lead order can be started from any one of the 4 positions. Important things are that the timing event relating to #1 occurs when the rotor points to where #1 lead is plugged in, and that the timing event occurs at the right crank angle. That and the cams are timed to the dizzy.

[ra_28]

Hi

http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/2TG_Parts.html

I've thought about buying one to see if i could modify it to suit the 18rg.

Regards
Alex