For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[RAAAH23]

two very valid points you have there.

ill watch him and learn with the carbies, then he can watch me and learn with the computer

[RAAAH23]

YOU GUYS ARE BRILLIANT! THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH..


All fixed now pulled the plugs out and noticed cylinder no.1 plug was black while the rest were a nice light brown. That lead to me to believe that the jet for cyl 1 was loose. followed rodgers instructions to the tee (Thanks alot champion!) pulled the jet cover off and wham there it was jet no.1 about 3 threads loose. tightend with a 10mm spanner and its running like a champ!

once again thanks to those that help best thing ive done on this car was join this forum and next year when memberships are up there will be atleast one new memeber

[Sagluren]

good to see some people are happy.

well done alex.


cheers

[o_man_ra23]

Yet again the Jet gremlin strikes!! Thanks for taking the effort to check it for yourself, it is indeed a rewarding experience.

As for you joining as a member, can I just ask that you make every effort to attend the club meetings and become an active member outside of the forums. I unfortunately cannot attend meetings etc due to my location even though I am a paying member, but wish that I could.

[ra_28]

No worries glad something i said was right for a change. Hate being wrong.

Cheers
Alex

[RAAAH23]

Yet again the Jet gremlin strikes!! Thanks for taking the effort to check it for yourself, it is indeed a rewarding experience.

As for you joining as a member, can I just ask that you make every effort to attend the club meetings and become an active member outside of the forums. I unfortunately cannot attend meetings etc due to my location even though I am a paying member, but wish that I could.

yes you are very right, it is a rewarding experience. ive never done this sort of thing with a club and all before, so im keen to try it out.

No worries glad something i said was right for a change. Hate being wrong.

Cheers
Alex

thanks alex if i could rep you guys some more trust me i would honestly made my week

good to see some people are happy.

well done alex.


cheers

you got that right.. extremely happy

[river]

Hi,

Good work!

See.. easy fix, and some of us know what we're talking about. Not only have you learned something, but you got the engine running nice and it didn't cost you a cent!

seeyuzz
river

[RAAAH23]

Hi,

Good work!

See.. easy fix, and some of us know what we're talking about. Not only have you learned something, but you got the engine running nice and it didn't cost you a cent!

seeyuzz
river

never doubted you guys for a second

one more question i pulled the whole top cover off including the floats and noticed there was quite a fair bit of gunk on the bottom of the main body where the petrol sits how would you guys recommend cleaning it?

should i pull them off drain the fuel and hit it with some carbie cleaner?

[river]

Hi,

Personally I wouldn't worry about it. I would check the jets and make sure they are clean, but wouldn't pull off the carbies (to clean out this gunk) unless I was pulling the entire carbs apart and doing a rebuild.

Sure, run some carby cleaner through them though.

seeyuzz
river

[Sagluren]

you could disconect fuel lines and run the engine on what is left in there then when fuel bowl is empty clean it out with carby clean, very clean rags and some patiance to make sure you dont inadvertantly clog up any jet or whatever.

another good thing to do is to carby clean the crap out of the carbies venturies when it is running. make a good diffrence if there is some minor blockages in the throttle bodies.


cheers

[schnitzel]

Ok well I finally got around to doing some work on my own cars for a change, after playing around with an 18 r and a 5 r powered daihatsu f10's i started on the 18rg powered corolla which has been wanting some TLC for nearly six months, has been breaking down really badly as soon as you hit 4000 revs, so saw the posts above the other day and went Bugger, better look at the jets and guess what in 10 minutes motor suddenly revs again, only problem now is the clutch is slipping, oh well put it aside and move on to the "cough" ra 40 i bought a couple of months back for a song because it was sold as an 18rg with a factory efi conversion, but has a problem as it stalls as soon as it gets to operating temperature.

So proceeded to have a look, initial thoughts were either fuel relay has a bodgy connection or maybe ecu. Decided to have a look, ( remember bought this off ebay sight unseen, picked it up brought it home and parked it) traced the wiring back too find the ecu, pulled out the glovebox and find it has a haltech f9 fitted. (Of course I threw out the windows 3.1 laptop 12 months ago so now have to work out dosbox)

Anyone know what causes the haltech to cut out at idle when it reaches operating temp. am thinking either TPS or coolant sensor, but hoping someone knows before I go chasing red herrings.

Anywat have gone from 2 non running 18rg;s to 2 almost running vehicles in a weekend so am partly happy

[o_man_ra23]

Schnitzel,

First, I have never used a Haltech and don't know the capabilities of the ECU or its software. But I can give you some direction.

Temperature related would point me in three directions. First replace the temp sensor that feeds the ECU - would do it anyway regardless of if it is the culprit or not. Second, if it runs the factory cold start idle valve, it should be hooked directly to the ignition switch, and not to the ECU. Third is the coil, if it is on its way out, it could be getting hot and dying.

Best thing to do is load up the software, and do some data logging on what all the inputs and outputs are doing, as this should show you if there is a bodgy sensor, or some bodgy tuning.

Hope this helps.

[schnitzel]

Schnitzel,

First, I have never used a Haltech and don't know the capabilities of the ECU or its software. But I can give you some direction.

Temperature related would point me in three directions. First replace the temp sensor that feeds the ECU - would do it anyway regardless of if it is the culprit or not. Second, if it runs the factory cold start idle valve, it should be hooked directly to the ignition switch, and not to the ECU. Third is the coil, if it is on its way out, it could be getting hot and dying.

Best thing to do is load up the software, and do some data logging on what all the inputs and outputs are doing, as this should show you if there is a bodgy sensor, or some bodgy tuning.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Owen, sort of where I was heading, still waiting on the usb to serial adaptor to arrive so I can then connect to the ecu. Is a fairly primitive set up but when it is running motor appears too be quite strong. Haven't used a haltech since this model came out i think back in 1993.

Hadn't thought of the coil so will try replacing that as have a spare still in the box, so could be a simple fix. I hope so.

Kids just want me to get both going so they can have a car each for motorkhana's. Me I'll stick with the 2tg for that.

Regards

Greg

[chaRwie]

guys, this doesn't sound healthy does it? the tapping sound
someone mentioned it was oil pressure, reading up on here some have said valve clearence
anyone had similar problem and solved it?
don't mind my spark leads, got some trd ones coming from jpn

[Steve M]

This sound happened on my brother's engine at different times for three reasons.

1: Loose tappet (need thicker shim) easy to measure, easy to fix (buy thicker shim).
2: Camshaft (welded/ground) was damaged and was wearing away bucket. Replaced camshaft & bucket.
3: Bent valve. Removed head and replaced valve, reground valve seat.

Chain tensioner adjustment is another possibility.
Check the adjustment of the upper chain tensioner. Push screw driver in to the little hole on the end and see if it moves 0.5 - 1.0mm with moderate pressure. That's how it should be. If it's not like that, adjust it.
Make sure that you loosen the lock nut while holding the big nut thing still. Too many tensioners have been broken by people trying to just loosen the big nut thing independantly.