For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Javal]

I'm no expert on aftermarket computers but i'll answer as many as I can.

ok some quick Haltech e6k to 18rgeu setup questions. true or false or other?

using dizzy/igniter.

1. load sensing- manifold or TPS, i put manifold.
Have a look on the Haltech forums but the general consensus is that as long as your engine produces good vacuum (i.e. no MASSIVE cams) then use MAP

2. map sensor- i have a 3 bar sensor, but should i put 1 bar in the parameter or 3? as its NA engine?
If it's a 3 bar sensor, put 3 bar.

3. decel cut off- i disabled t/f?
Nothing wrong with decel fuel cutoff, but because you're using the factory throttlebody which has only wax pellet idle speed control maybe leave it off because it may cause stalling issues.

4. Inj mode- i put multi point T/F or batch firing????|
You will have to do batch firing because you don't have a sensor that can determine cam position. (this is where most people go to a trigger wheel on the crank and modify the distributor to just have a single tooth and act as a cam 'home' signal). If you can, you'll have to set it up for 'all 4 injectors firing together' or re-wire them in pairs (1+4 and 2+3) so you can run split batch injection, if that's an option. They're wired up as pairs from factory, but they're wired up as 1+2 and 3+4, this is ONLY because the ancient drivers (triggers) in the factory ECU couldn't handle the current so they're split in two.

5. zero throttle map -i disabled t/f
Nooo idea.

6. full throttle threshold - i put 95% ??? 70 - 100% which is best?
I am unsure with this one, but i'd assume it's the ECU giving 100% throttle levels of fuelling / other outputs when the lower threshhold you set it to is reached


7. trigger input - Int reluctor for dizzy??? t/f
8. out put type - constant charge T/f
9. coil charge time WTF....start at 3 and head to 4-5?????
10. output edge -i have falling t/f

This is a little tricky. You see, the original ECU only gets an RPM signal from the collapsing ignition coil firing (field collapsing). I am totally unsure as to whether you can use this setup with the EK6 but i'd guess not, especially considering the above things are all things regarding the EK6 controlling the coil and not the igniter.

Someone is more than welcome to correct me, but if I were in your situation, i'd ditch the factory coil and igniter altogether (you did say you have another set of coils and igniter module), run the VR sensor from the distributor as a dedicated RPM input to the EK6 and use your twin coils to run waste-spark. You can allow the EK6 to control the dwell (coil charge time) and firing. I'm not sure if your igniter module will be adaptable with your EK6


11. i have a narrow band single wire O2 sensor & a LC1 wideband that is connected seperate atm.
which should i connect to the e6k, im thinking narrowband and leave WB to datalog with own sofware...T/F?
Hmmm, this ones up to you. I always think it better to run a wideband so your ECU can have greater control but it may be more difficult to set up. A narrowband will do just fine. Maybe talk to your tuner about that one.


12. would you connect both lift and h/flow pumps on same main wire with 2 relays or use the Auxiliary fuel pump function & have the eg. lift pump
continually on? i think same wire 2 relays. no need for Aux function T/F?

Run them so they're both controlled by the ECU, it's illegal and unsafe to have either of them running constantly when the ignition is on. I think that's what you meant by connecting both the relay trigger wires to the same source.


13. is idle speed control & Aux air pump & anti stall control the same thing? Is the GEU air valve connected to this to control low down idling?

Unsure, but I don't think any of these are a function you're going to be able to use. I think i've mentioned to you before the GEU Aux air valve simply gets 12v at IGN on and then closes of its own accord as the engine warms up. Because of this you can't use it as an idle speed controller / idle air control valve


14. if rule of thumb is for every 100kw needs around 670cc of fuel, say the engine is non std and around 140kw. thus 938cc div by 4 =235 cc inj at 100% at 80% duty cycle 4 x 440cc inj will be great. T/F
i may edit this as i read the 150pg manual...lol
..seems about right.

[ra_28]

Omegaman,

For a TPS I used this kit. It actually bolted straight on using the original mounting plate from the old TPS. All I had to do was shorten the throttle shaft a little. Was a very easy mod.

https://www.efihardware.com/products...tating-shaft-D



Think it was the clockwise rotating kit???

Alex

[o_man_ra23]

The LC-1 from Innovate has two outputs. One is narrowband the other is wideband. Does the Haltech datalog? If so, I would feed it the wideband signal.

[Omegaman]

Omegaman,

For a TPS I used this kit. It actually bolted straight on using the original mounting plate from the old TPS. All I had to do was shorten the throttle shaft a little. Was a very easy mod.

https://www.efihardware.com/products...tating-shaft-D

Think it was the clockwise rotating kit???

Alex

i already have a VL/nissan auto TPS, which wont take much to fit. providing the 2nd plug for the auto is no issue.
But thanks for the info.

The LC-1 from Innovate has two outputs. One is narrowband the other is wideband. Does the Haltech datalog? If so, I would feed it the wideband signal.

I haven't read up on the LC1 on how i can connect it to the ECU, but if i can i might. As, at the moment its really stand alone.
Yes the Haltech does data log. But so does the LC1 software.
i do also have a narrow band also connected to Orig GEU ECU, so 2 bungs in my exhaust.
i Actually might leave the LC1 as is, stand alone with gauge and take off the single wire N/B, as i also have a 4 wire that i might connect to haltech...Hmmm

edit. i did just read that the Haltech can do closed loop with W/B o2, but it needs to be connected to the spare a/d input, to be able to datalog...cool.

Lilcrash, i would still appreciate a Base Map as per yr offer, if still on the table.

[Omegaman]

7. trigger input - Int reluctor for dizzy??? t/f
8. out put type - constant charge T/f
9. coil charge time WTF....start at 3 and head to 4-5?????
10. output edge -i have falling t/f[/B]

This is a little tricky. You see, the original ECU only gets an RPM signal from the collapsing ignition coil firing (field collapsing). I am totally unsure as to whether you can use this setup with the EK6 but i'd guess not, especially considering the above things are all things regarding the EK6 controlling the coil and not the igniter.

Someone is more than welcome to correct me, but if I were in your situation, i'd ditch the factory coil and igniter altogether (you did say you have another set of coils and igniter module), run the VR sensor from the distributor as a dedicated RPM input to the EK6 and use your twin coils to run waste-spark. You can allow the EK6 to control the dwell (coil charge time) and firing. I'm not sure if your igniter module will be adaptable with your EK6

I'll be using an EMS dual coil igniter, so it should be adaptable with E6K

11. i have a narrow band single wire O2 sensor & a LC1 wideband that is connected seperate atm.
which should i connect to the e6k, im thinking narrowband and leave WB to datalog with own sofware...T/F?[/B]

Hmmm, this ones up to you. I always think it better to run a wideband so your ECU can have greater control but it may be more difficult to set up. A narrowband will do just fine. Maybe talk to your tuner about that one.

As my post above, i will try to add a 4 wire O2 sensor and keep LC1 seperate....

12. would you connect both lift and h/flow pumps on same main wire with 2 relays or use the Auxiliary fuel pump function & have the eg. lift pump
continually on? i think same wire 2 relays. no need for Aux function T/F?[/B]

Run them so they're both controlled by the ECU, it's illegal and unsafe to have either of them running constantly when the ignition is on. I think that's what you meant by connecting both the relay trigger wires to the same source.

i was thinking maybe running the lift pump on Digital output wire. which suggest it can be done. but if too difficult i will run it parallel to main pump.

13. is idle speed control & Aux air pump & anti stall control the same thing? Is the GEU air valve connected to this to control low down idling? [/B]

Unsure, but I don't think any of these are a function you're going to be able to use. I think i've mentioned to you before the GEU Aux air valve simply gets 12v at IGN on and then closes of its own accord as the engine warms up. Because of this you can't use it as an idle speed controller / idle air control valve

Im thinking i read, that the Haltech can open the Aux air valve for a short pre determined period, on start up. i'll give that a second look.

[GT1978]

Can anyone recommend a shop that can tune a pair of webers in vic? Preferred in eastern suburbs. Need to get my car running properly so I can start tidying her up again.

[Omegaman]

hi. again...

Is the XF falcon idle air control valve still the favorite for GEu and Haltech?
The reason i ask is, all the ones from the wreckers are not the type required. ie. not the 90 deg hose type.
There mainly the bolt on throttle body type. Are there 2 types and what actual car year am i looking for?

[RA35GT]

You want the type that has the two hose barbs and looks similar to this https://www.efihardware.com/products...alve-PWM-large

You can also get PWM type idle valves from like 90's Excels and stuff. (Sorry can't remember exact model)

[stormbird]

Can anyone recommend a shop that can tune a pair of webers in vic? Preferred in eastern suburbs. Need to get my car running properly so I can start tidying her up again.

Look into Weber Performance in Braeside 9587 3277 last time i was there he was setting up for a tuning facility. or you could just buy a brand new set off him.

[Omegaman]

You want the type that has the two hose barbs and looks similar to this https://www.efihardware.com/products...alve-PWM-large

You can also get PWM type idle valves from like 90's Excels and stuff. (Sorry can't remember exact model)

Yep. heard on the grapevine that Hyundai's can suit, wasn't sure which..great thanks.
Also heard the 4AGE 20v but these would be hard to find in pieces.
Pick and payless on Sat, see you all there...lol

[o_man_ra23]

I'm going to look at V6 commo TB on mine. That then deletes the hoses which go to the IAC and cleans the engine bay up a bit more...

[Omegaman]

I'm going to look at V6 commo TB on mine. That then deletes the hoses which go to the IAC and cleans the engine bay up a bit more...

I read somewhere the c'dore TB can be used, but doesn't that require cutting and joining????

ok, another question...sorry guys, i have gone through old forum and current forum search.
There is some information from 2006 but I’m sure by now everyone has and had their setup sorted and fine tuned.

so, 1) i believe a crank angle sensor would be easier to set up than converting dizzy with a trigger setup t/F, assuming i left the dizzy instead of coils.
2) If crank angle sensor is used, is there a simple application off the shelf for Hall effect or is a VR sensor easier and available to suit.
3) where have you mounted the trigger wheel, front of balancer some how, or on the rear ???? Is there a suitable wheel type for this?
4) which would be a better option Hall or VR, with parts easily found?

Now if i put trigger wheel on the dizzy and NO crank sensor, is there a preferred size, teeth, home gap..ie 24/1 wheel.?
is there a kit available that can be modified slightly.
or is there someone/workshop in Sydney that can lock, and covert a spare dizzy i have.

Thats all i think for today....

[Pagie84a]

How come you wouldnt wanna go coils if your gunna go crank trigger.

[Omegaman]

Actually, I prefer coils. I suppose it comes down to what's easier to locate, fabricate and fit. Crank or dizzy trigger.
The crank set up sounds better and more precise in setting and maintaining timing setup over a longer period. ie no chain stretching issues...blah blah

this is a NOOB question, but once you set up a crank angle sensor, and coil pack ignitor setup, theres no reason for the dizzy whatso ever is there?
the signal will all come from the sensor to ECU to fire ....right.?
so i can block the dizzy hole...that is a noob question, isnt it... ;(

[Javal]

Actually, I prefer coils. I suppose it comes down to what's easier to locate, fabricate and fit. Crank or dizzy trigger.
The crank set up sounds better and more precise in setting and maintaining timing setup over a longer period. ie no chain stretching issues...blah blah

this is a NOOB question, but once you set up a crank angle sensor, and coil pack ignitor setup, theres no reason for the dizzy whatso ever is there?
the signal will all come from the sensor to ECU to fire ....right.?
so i can block the dizzy hole...that is a noob question, isnt it... ;(

You modify the distributor to act as a cam position sensor so you can run full sequential ignition and injection! Lock the distributor shaft, modify the rotor / reluctor to only have one tooth, mount a hall effect sensor in place of the VR sensor and bam! Cam position signal so your ECU can tell which cycle the engine is on. Then put a blanking plate where the distributor cap used to go.