For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[73GTV]

LOL so will a horse...eventually

Oww! and Me without a saddle....lol. You have a point, I not ready to trade smoking tires and skid marks for horse-shoe.

[Javal]

Oww! and Me without a saddle....lol. You have a point, I not ready to trade smoking tires and skid marks for horse-shoe.

Plus re-shoeing a horse costs a mint these days...

[73GTV]

Does anyone have an original TA22 Radiator (2T or 2T-G) that has already been removed so that I can request the bolt center measurements for height and width?

The state side radiators are for the 8R, 18R or 20 Engines and for those of us with the T-series engines, we have a different radiator which I'm trying to get an aluminum radiator to replace my old one which I no longer own. Any help would be very helpful, Thanks 73GTV

[GT1978]

If you are after an alloy radiator pm riceburnagtv or check out the jar posts in the sponsors for sale section. I'm sure he'll have a t series radiator.

[73GTV]

If you are after an alloy radiator pm riceburnagtv or check out the jar posts in the sponsors for sale section. I'm sure he'll have a t series radiator.

Thanks will do

[stang81]

Hi guys Got a quick question on ID'ing a engine for me. Just picked up this car a month ago.

Cant show the engine number on the drivers side due to all the injection harness etc on it.

If someones got some good info that would be great.

Heres the run down.

Number stamped on head front pax side: 11111-88253

Number upside on block 18R-95822## drivers side

And on pax side on block casting numbers down the bottom under exhausts/ extractors. 11411-36041???

Thanks for your time and merry xmas.

Cheers

Al

[Javal]

Yeah, so that's an 18RGU 88253 motor, last of the 18R-GUs. Cams and compression are a bit more tame than the early 18R-G, but the 88253's have almost the exact same head as the EFI motors, which are the best flowing of the lot.

That's all straight from the first post on the first page of this thread.

Sounds like someone has put EFI gear on an earlier motor (which is not at all a bad thing). Those engine numbers can be a bastard to see under the intake manifold. But if the number is upside-down, it's a genuine 18R-G(U) block.

[stang81]

Many thanks for the info! Glad to see its a 18RGU at least!

Cheers

Al

[Omegaman]

Im finally back to working on the tractor.
In short....18rgeu with std ecu.
My previous problem was, starting but died at idle after 5-20 sec's
Fuel pumps seemed to have a problem getting signal.

Well im now back to problem solving the harness.
I have re-wired the relays as shown on diagram and added the extra relay for lift pump. see Diag 1
I've also added a VE+ coil wire, which my previous wiring diagram did not have. See diag 2.
Now that i've fixed the signal problem with pumps, so they now come on from AFM signal.
I have now got issues with no spark or injector (Firing) signal. i get power to the coil and injectors but no pulsing.

I feel its a coil problem due to primary Ohms being zero and secondaries being 15.6Ohms.
Also the ballast resister, has no resistance showing.
In short i will change to a new coil and resister, BUT...
Looking at my new diag 1, when adding the VE+ wiring, could this cause the burnout of the coil/ballast?????
The previous diag 2, as we said shows no VE+ wire anywhere.

So previous to coil problem, injectors were firing, as per the wiring shown.

any hints or help would be great. if i dont solve this i will probably leave it sitting for another year.

Or as tempting as it is, buy a wolf 3d or halteck E6x ecu for under $500 but still need to re wire the car, which will i'm sure
have other issues to deal with.
help.

[jabbatron]

..........

[Javal]

Are you running a factory igniter?

I had a similar issue (mine was a ghost in the wiring) but a long story short: No flyback voltage from the coil firing = no injector pulse. So you need to get that coil firing first.

[Omegaman]

I cant help with your problem but please, just buy a megasquirt if you cant figure out the std stuff. www.diyautotune.com.


Id have lost my sanity by now if i had to trouble shoot such an analogue ecu .

ha ha ha, yes i know its a better system.
i have been searching for a bargain buy, but none around. hence the cheap wolf or haltec i was looking into.
i did try a microtech, but still did not fire. so i need to find the issue and then upgrade.
i'm really not ready for crank angle sensors and alike, just want std dizzy connections with no customizing dizzies for hall effect anything.
FYI, im really a patient guy, when it come to this...wife hates me for it though.

[Omegaman]

Are you running a factory igniter?

I had a similar issue (mine was a ghost in the wiring) but a long story short: No flyback voltage from the coil firing = no injector pulse. So you need to get that coil firing first.

yes its a factory igniter...
i will use a prob light tonight.
i've got power to coil, from + side to - side of coil.
so, if i put prob light on battery + and the other to - of coil it should pulse when cranking.
if not, that confirmation of a bad coil..

has anyone had a chance at looking at the diagrams?
theres a few different diagrams out there, but this is what my harness was made from.

[Omegaman]

can someone check in diag 1. if i have the main relay wires mixed up.
that is, relay 30 and 87 should be around the other way.
30 to battery and 87 to 12v supply from ecu..or its ok the way it is?

please don't think, just because it say's I'm a "Domestic Engineer" in profil, that i know what i'm doing....

[Javal]

yes its a factory igniter...
i will use a prob light tonight.
i've got power to coil, from + side to - side of coil.
so, if i put prob light on battery + and the other to - of coil it should pulse when cranking.
if not, that confirmation of a bad coil..

has anyone had a chance at looking at the diagrams?
theres a few different diagrams out there, but this is what my harness was made from.

That's correct, if you go from B+ to the -ve side of the coil it should pulse while cranking. You can even just go across the coil. If it doesn't pulse it would likely mean a bad igniter as the igniter isn't grounding / firing the coil thus giving you your pulse. Those igniters are crapping out a lot these days.

can someone check in diag 1. if i have the main relay wires mixed up.
that is, relay 30 and 87 should be around the other way.
30 to battery and 87 to 12v supply from ecu..or its ok the way it is?

please don't think, just because it say's I'm a "Domestic Engineer" in profil, that i know what i'm doing....

As far as the wiring diagram goes, it looks pretty much the same as I used to wire up mine: http://www.garagedori.com/tech/efi/1...ng_diagram.gif

Regarding the pins 87/30 being backwards, it won't matter in reality. It's just a contact that closes.