Not sure if you're serious there Zammo, but doing it that way could mean fuel is continually pumped if you crash and get a leak in the fuel system. (and you either forget to turn the pump off or are incapacitated)
If you dont want to use the afm fuel pump control, use a tachometric relay.
The AFM is really simple. When the flap opens it connects the two end terminals together. (one should be earthed, one goes to the fuel pump relay, the other side of the relay coil should be 12V)
You can test by just pushing on the afm flap with the relay powered up.
It does not rely upon TPS or AFM voltage output.
Disconnect the AFM, find the two wires on the end of the connector (i cant recall which end) and using your multimeter on continuity on those two wires. With the flap closed it should be open circuit, if you move the flap it should go short circuit.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Hi guys,
Time for me to clog up the thread again with my, erm, wiring woes.
My main problem is that most of the wiring diagrams / ECU pinouts are, well, not correct for my application. The 18RGEU ECU I have does not have the same pinouts as the diagram that's been floating around forever. Long story short, I've stripped the looms which came with the engine back from which I've taken all the wires which connect to the engine and ECU, which will connect my vehicles body harness.
However after tracing all of the 'known' wires (injectors, temp sensor, TPS etc) to verify that my ECU pinout diagram is correct, i've found it isn't.
This is what i've got so far:
This is viewed from the 'back' of the connector - illustrated the same way (in 3d with direction annotation) in the next picture.
I have my suspicions about a few of the unknowns -
-Grey wire, small connector - possibly oxygen sensor
-White wire, small connector - possibly oxygen sensor shield wire ('E1')
But yeah, the rest i'm kind of lost on.
Also, this:
If it helps my cause. I'd love to know the AFM pinouts.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Mate, have you opened up the ecu and checked the board for the pinout?
AFM
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...tml#post243544
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
No! Great idea. I'll report back tonight![]()
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Hi Guys.
I broke my 18RG on a rallysprint (Crushed the oil pump pick-up over a jump)
Found a broken piston as well.
A friend gave me an 18R short motor out of a Corona with relatively low klm.
I know the 18RG head will fit on the 18R block but what about pistons.
Do I need 18RG pistons or can I use the 18R pistons.
Advice appreciated.
Rob.
You need 18RG pistons mate, and you need to swap literally everything else over.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Well, Rudi to the rescue once again. Opened up the ECU and found this, as promised:
Also found this -
Open your ECU they said, it'll be fun they said.
Current plan of attack is to clean it up with a soft toothbrush and some terminal spray, unless someone has a better idea or has an ECU for me...
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Are these ECU's mounted under the seats on the original cars?
I have 2 of them, but i'm too scared to open them up.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Bugger!!! Looks like it's been sitting in a bucket of water!
I think contact cleaner would be the go. (Maybe Inox as well).
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Not looking good mate. Start with Inox or WD40 to neutralise the corrosion, then go with contact cleaner. Soft brush on the first step is a good option. Once it goes, I would coat with conformal coating to prevent reoccurrence.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Yeah i've given it a thorough going over with rost off and a toothbrush, then contact cleaner. It's looking a lot better but i'd still rather source one that hasn't gotten wet and keep this as a spare.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
I found this site today.
92mm pistons 11:1 CR in stock.
Other varieties special ordered.
Toyota 18RG 18R-G 92mm Forged Piston Kit | Whitehead Performance
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
After a consult with my brother who is significantly more knowledgeable about PCB electronics than I, it looks like it should be ok. Looking at the history of the ECU I think I know how it happened too...
Anyway. I'll keep cleaning it up and grab a can of PCB laquer to go over the copper tracks i've exposed.
I'd still like another one so I can use this as a spare, if anyone knows of one...
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
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