For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[bmxer54]

Well the top one in that pic is points the other two are electronic really comes down to which you want to use but i take it you are running electronic and ill take a guess that the 2x 11.5 +13.5 are the electronic ones??
cant really give too much advice but i would be going with those just for the set and forget factor.

Cheers,

Peter

[Omegaman]

Actually, the top one is also electronic. All three are.
the difference is the internal numbers and the top one only has vacuum advance.
Also the shaft lobes are shaped differently.
But I will use the middle one, as it seems to be the newest with no advance screw.

[caam]

Does anyone have any tips for getting stubborn camshaft dowels out?
The dowels are pressed down into the cam and the only thing I can get onto it is tweasers

[ra_28]

Does anyone have any tips for getting stubborn camshaft dowels out?
The dowels are pressed down into the cam and the only thing I can get onto it is tweasers

With the cam gears off you can't grab the dowls?

[caam]

Was trying to avoid taking off the cam gears because I didn't want to drop the chain
but yes I can get them with the gears off

[ra_28]

What I've done in the past is stuffed some rags down below the gears and used a good magnet.

If that doesn't work you don't need to drop the chain off. If the dowel is been stubborn back off the timing chain adjuster, take out the retaining bolt on the cam gear slide the gear off remove dowel with pointy noise pliers put the gear back on.

But make sure you have the rag in place saves many hassles of fishing a dowel out if your sump.

[o_man_ra23]

Can I suggest avoiding the stock flywheel and turbo combination? A 30+ year old flywheel has lots of stress points just waiting for some clutch slip to heat it to the point of failure. Just remember that when they disintegrate, it is your legs which are likely to be removed.

Even if you are happy with the weight, I would still opt for a new unit.

[andrewzuku]

I picked up two spare 18R-C distributors, both with the vacuum advance still in place. Between them, I now have options for 11.5°, 13.5°, 15.5°, and 17.5° mechanical advance (at the distributor).


Points ignition (not being used) and vacuum advance.


Mechanical advance



I tried using the vacuum advance, but it seemed to stick. After servicing the breaker plate and vacuum mechanism to move perfectly off the car, I still couldn't get it to move any smoother with vacuum connected.

After a bit more Googling, I found out that Webers don't like vacuum advance (I have twin 45 DCOE 13's).

I tried a few combinations, and have settled on 15° initial advance, 23° mechanical advance (for 38° total, which is achieved at around 2500 RPM) and no vacuum advance. I've used the original breaker plate from my car that couldn't rotate.

I think I've got it as good as I can for now. The next step will be to take it to the carb guru, but that will have to wait a while. Real life is getting in the way



On a side-note... My Webers don't have a cold-start circuit. The space where one would be is just open. Do I need to get a block-off plate, or is it ok to leave?

[Omegaman]

I've finally sorted the idle and timing. Sits nicely at 12deg, 800 rpm at idle.
Re fitted all new vacuum hoses, as I had surging at idle.

BUT Now, the new problem is, the engine will run for 30 seconds to a minute, then it just dies.
Checked all the vacuum hoses, change the temp sensor as the gauge wouldn't move, even when warm.
Took fuse out for ECU and re fitted.
Still has the problem.
What else could it be?
I have fuel and fuel pressure.

I'm really over this. You fix one thing and another appears.

[RA35GT]

The engine ecu and temp gauge should use different sensors?

Does it die quicker if you rev it? Will it rev? Can you restart straight away?

Does it cough and stumble and then die or just die?

What ignition system?

[Omegaman]

It idles and revs fine. You can rev it then it feels it looses power and dies.
it doesn't cough before it dies. It will start straight away.
it has electronic ignition.

[Omegaman]

This is the start up. The problem is it runs for a bit then stops.
I also changed dizzies just in case. Same issues.
Could a vacuum leak cause any of this?
if theres any ideas, please let me know.

An 18rgeu problem - YouTube

[JustenGT8]

Fuel problem is my guess from symptoms. It's running on the start fuel, but then not switching to run the injectors. Hmmm it's likely missing a signal to tell the ECU the engine is running?

[RA35GT]

I'm with Justen.

Check to make sure the IG terminal on the computer is connected directly to the coil negative terminal.

[Omegaman]

thanks guys , i'll have to wait till next week now to look at it again.
But on that fuel issue. I have a surge tank, so how would the car always start if the pumps weren't working.
it would finaly starve and just attempt to kick over....
injectors were pulsing ok, with the anoide light thinky on it.

im starting to hate this car.
the amount of time trying to sort this, i could've done a conversion to a 1gg.....