For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[ian]

i have an 18 r green manual here if you want it

[SilverRA23]

Could you post the link Brendan - just had a workshop contact me looking for the same thing and it would be good to help him out - he is the guy that tuned Graham's Celica for the 6 hour and I want to get on his good side

[viccelicara23]

Here it is http://members.iinet.net.au/~stepho/...gine%2018R.pdf
That workshop is where my Celica currently is.

I sent him a copy last night so it is strange that he contacted you today

[cheviotrola]

Hi guys and guydettes, just wanted to know if 18rc engine wiring can run an 18rg without any changes?

[Javal]

Hi guys and guydettes, just wanted to know if 18rc engine wiring can run an 18rg without any changes?

I can't forsee you running into any issues. There's only like 5 wires to the bloody engine anyway!

Oil Pres
Coolant Temp
Starter B+
Starter Trig
Alternator B+
Alternator Vref

.....just about everything is in the same place too.

Obviously you can't put an EFI 18R-G in place of an 18R-C with so few hassles.

[cheviotrola]

Excellent, bought mine with a half stripped 18rc, now an 18rg and I have no previous exp let alone even seen how it came apart in the first place. Cheers :-)

[Javal]

Oh, and the distributor to coil trigger wire.

Shouldn't be too hard to do man. Worst case a few wires might have to be extended. Some of the other guys in here or the Classic Celica thread might be able to give you more detailed information.

[ra_28]

Coolant temp sensor is on the other side. Other than that nothing come to mind.

[Javal]

Coolant temp sensor is on the other side. Other than that nothing come to mind.

Just fuel system and linkages, piece of piss.

[SilverRA23]

When I replaced my 18rc with an 18rg at the beginning of the year I had to extend the coolant temp sensor around the front to the other side, other wise there was no changes.

[o_man_ra23]

+1 on the coolant temp sensor. The dizzy wire will fit with a bit of re-routing (assuming your 18R-G isn't running electronic ignition - could be a bit of extra work there), there is also the wire which goes to the 18R-C carb (either the anti-diesel solenoid, or the auto choke, or both), which can be disconnected and tied out of the way. You will also want to add a new earth wire from your head to the body, and maybe even the starter motor housing to the body also, this will reduce any possible woes later on.

Fuel will be the same if you are running a mechanical pump, the changes to that system were all isolated to stuff which comes on the engine. The linkages will either need to be modified to suit, or deleted and replaced with a cable (more popular method).

[Taff]

just curious, what would need to be done and roughly how much money would it take to get a stock 18RG putting out 100+rwkw N/A. Assuming everything but any machining can be done at home.

[scottreichstein]

depends on how cheap you can get some nos for

[masterofsinanju]

NOS doesn't count as N/A does it?

[o_man_ra23]

Start with a pair of lumpy cams, free flowing exhaust and intake, and then take it in for a really good tune. This is assuming your compression is good. If it isn't, then get a set of 92mm forged pistons with about 10.5:1 compression (Arias do them), and a Cometic 92mm bore head gasket. This will give a lot more torque across the rev range, so will allow you to make the power at lower revs (ie 7000rpm as opposed to 8000rpm)

Something which won't provide more power at the crank, but will reduce how much is lost between there and the wheels, is a lightweight flywheel. Kameari make a good chromoly one. I believe the Fidanza one is NLA unfortunately.

Rough figures -
Cams - $250
Shims - $80
Pistons - $700
Flywheel - $500
Machining - $800
Head Gasket - $100
Rest of the gaskets - $230
Exhaust components (assuming 2 1/4", with no cat and just a muffler) - $250
Tune - ??? - one of the most important parts of wanting this kind of power
Miscellaneous parts (ie welsch plugs, gudgeon bushes etc) - $300

If you are going to drive around corners with this, you should look at baffling the sump also.